Hi. My 2001 Disco has its service engine light on. Worked with a former LR tech in the area. He got a huge fault list and recommended replacing the mass air flow sensor based on his experience.
We did that, but the light came right back on ($200). Next took it to dealer, who noticed a fried fuse and a bent pin on the MAF sensor connector. Repaired both, sent it home. Next day, problem recurred ($200 more).
Currently fuse 2 and fuse 5 in the engine compartment box are out. Fuse 2 (15A) connects to the MAF sensor, air injection valve, purge control valve, camshaft position sensor, and each of those connect to the ECM (explains the long fault list!). Fuse 5 (40A) goes to the motor cooling fan only. (Bought the circuit diagrams. $14. :-)
So this seems like there's got to be an electrical short, right? Advice on how to pinpoint it??
I did notice one of the black plastic "conduit" tubes adjacent to the top of the motor has cracked and come apart, exposing the wiring, but didn't see any fraying there.
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Aug 21, 2009 - 15 posts - 8 authors
Anyone ever compiled a list of known issues with these vehicles, mine's a ... ...don't forget my own personal favourite (NOT) the cracked common fuel ... Bought it new in 2000 TD5 series II and to make a long story short I was ...Discovery V8
29 Nov 2010
common disco td5 problems
6 Nov 2007
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Hi there I am technology tech mechanic I work on electric and man. I come from line line of mechanics I am 5gen bc it is a check light just like for your engine optimization services there is something wrong with it and it doesn't have to be big deal could be a light bulb
What engine does your 2500 HD have? Is it a 6.6 diesel, a 6.0 gas, or an 8.1 gas engine? If it's a gas engine, the A/C compressor belt may have snapped (common). The gas engines used a separate, smaller belt to drive the compressor, while the larger serpentine belt runs the rest of the accessories. Diesel engines only have one belt that runs all accessories, including the A/C compressor.
From a(Retired Chrysler Tech) If prior to changing the T-stat & belts you were experincing a no start,Then afterward it started & ran fine until you again worked in the same area as before, The first thing I would do is to check any and all electrical "wiring" and or sensors & switches in that same area, If your vehicle is equiped with a crankshaft sensor it may be at the front of the engine in close proximity to the harmonic balancer,"crankshaft pully"& the wiring my be routed as to be easily moved while working in the belt area..pay close attention to the condition of the wiring. any wires that are exposed(bare) must be repaired or replaced. check for loose plugs at sensors. Be meticulous in your search, the smallest thing will create a no start in this type of set up.
the fan circuit has a a/c pressure switch to operate the second fan.the primary fan is operated by a thermal switch on the radiator,which drives the relay that drives the fan.if the thermal switch is bad it will not activate the relay.get the schematic and check the fuse,and the thermal switch.
Try spraying into the latch with a lubricant like WD-40. Also spray a little into the key hole itself. Don't be shy when you do the latch and move the nozzle around to reach different areas in the latch. Hope this helps.
sorry but its not that simple my good fellow!!
you need to get aan auto electrician to sort out where the fault is in the wiring loom!
& then can you will needa new ECU swell so expect a hefty $$$$$ cost due to labour [hourly rate]
& ECU,s are expensive