Question about 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You will have to remove the old ones (a round punch of about 1/4" works well, then remove and replace parts (two punch up, two punch down). BE SURE you have the door supported with a block of wood under the door while doing this. It would help for two people to do it also, but not 100% necessary. Good Luck ALSO REMOVE THE LATCH THAT KEEPS THE DOOR FROM SWINGING ALL THE WAY OPEN, THAT WILL GIVE YOU BETTER ACCESS.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
Do a bench test on the starter. Remove starter, hook up a ground cable to starter, and positive to two prongs on starter and it should spin. You can do this in vechile too but not suggested due to risk of injury. If it doesn't spin, probally a solenoid or the starter it self. Unlikely but possible.
Posted on Jan 21, 2010
The door hinge pins aren't very difficult to replace, the hinge itsself is. The hinge is actually welded to the door, so in order to replace it, you will need to take it apart, cut the welds, and weld a new one on, and paint it again. The hinge pins though are doable by about anyone. First, you will NEED these tools. A medium sized hammer, a brass drift punch, a long flat screwdriver, tire iron, or prybar, and something to rest the door on to keep from scratching it up, and to keep from pulling the wiring out. it should be about the same height as the bottom of the door. You may WANT these tools: door spring compressor, 1 extra person. First, start with the bottom hinge pin. You'll notice that there are a couple of washers around the tapered end of the pins. Ignore these; they're just decoration for all intent purposes. Pry out that spring that you see in next to the hinge with the prying utensil that you chose. Using that hammer and punch, drive out the bottom pin. Next, drive out the top pin, taking care to support the door, because when this one comes out, the door WILL fall. This is where your extra person and the milk crate, or whatever you chose to support the door come in. Be careful when driving the top pin out. The punch and hammer will come DANGEROUSLY close to the windshield, and result in a $190 job for a windshield and hinge pin/bushings, versus just $10 for the hinge pin/bushings. This is where you would repair the oblong holes that your door hinge undoubtedly has. You can get by with using something like Qwik Steel putty to fill in the gaps around the bushings if you want to stay cheap (you may end up having to redo it in a few years, but beats welding a new hinge on and having to redo it in a few years anyways. Or, you can choose to build the area up with a welder, redrill the holes, and go that route. Anyways, after you get your new bushings settled in, whether you used the steel putty route, welding, or just installed a new hinge, you can put the door back up there and the pins back in. I like putting the new ones in so the taper is at the bottom (keep thinking they look like they're gonna fall out the way GM puts them in there, though they never do), and then you have an option. If you want, you can leave the spring out that was in there. It will require a door spring compressor to put back in, but if you don't put it in, it won't do anything other than keep it from moving on its own when it's open. I don't bother with it. Hope that's what you're after, and good luck. It's not a hard job, but it can be a wrestling match putting the pins back in. Lastly, the door is a lot heavier than it looks, just FYI when you get it loose. Feel free to ask any further questions, I keep track of these.
Posted on Feb 19, 2010
The pins are driven out since they are driven is. Have the door supported on some sort of lifting device securely since it will become wobbly upon removal. Do one hinge at a time. The upper one gets the most wear
Posted on Jul 10, 2010
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