Question about 2001 Ford F150 Styleside SuperCrew
4 wheel drive half ton pickup where is the fuel tank pressure sensor
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: ford f-150 ignition switch
You will need to take the houseing off around the ignition should only be a couple of screws. Then here comes the fun bit, You will have to see if you can get hold of the tool that undoes and does up the bolts (as I will call them for you not there proper name but tech name may have you going the what ) that hold the ignition on or if not fussy you could just drill them out lift the ignition off after unlocking the steering lock so turn onto first click so radio would normally come on and with the new one you can always just change the bolts that may or maynot come with it( and most times they don't) with hex head ones or what ever is your fancy, but remember if you put it on with a spanner a thief can undo it with one, install just a reverse on uninstall. then you just screw the houseing back on. You maybe able to find or may know someone with ability to get the tool for the original bolts or if handy with a grinder and have a piece of metal around you could try making one. Most are a sort of rounded out triangle, but they usually only do up easily and are very hard to undo without the proper tool and most mechanics will just replace them with new ones as the reverse direction is rounded up to the back side to make it very difficult for a thief to simply undo in a few minutes, I've known people who have used a flat screw driver and smashed a groove into them to undo but remember that will also make them easy for a thief to just remove and bypass your ignition system ie steering locks and soforth
Posted on Jul 26, 2008
Let's hope with a Supercab you have a tilt steering wheel.If so, just unhook the negative battery cable, line your wheels up straight, leave it in park, and turn the key on. On the underside of the housing the key and lock cylinder is in, above the hazard switch, is a very small hole with a locking pin inside. Using a small punch, or whatever works for you, simply push the pin in as you pull the lock cylinder out, sort of twisting and rotating the cylinder as you pull. A non-tilting column is a little harder, but it's not difficult, just take your time and think about what you're doing. First you need to remove the steering wheel, so make sure you mark the wheel and column in a couple places so it's easy to line up later. On the back side of the wheel are two screws that hold the front padding with the horn in it. Remove it, being careful of the wires, and disconnect. With cruise control, when you disconnect the wiring in there, you need to squeeze the ground wire terminal clip carefully but firmly (it's sort of like a "J" clip), and pull the wire out of the hole in the wheel. DON'T just pull it out, squeeze, it's spring loaded. Then remove the switch for the horn and the nut holding the wheel on. Use a puller on the steering wheel, but not one they call a "knock off", because it's pretty easy to screw things up if you go hammerin' on the wheel or the column shaft. Take your time. Then you'll find the little hole with the retaining pin near the base of the lock cylinder inside the column, remove it the same way. Remember, in park with key on. Hope this helps you out. If you happen to be referring to the actual "ignition switch", located inside the steering column (which most people don't even know actually exists), or you don't have the key and that's why you're doing this, you'll have to let me know, and I'll try to walk you through those procedures at a later date.
Posted on Aug 26, 2008
I am going to ask a dumb question....do you have it in neutral and the brake mashed when you switch to 4WD LOW? I believe that is what my book says to do.
Posted on Oct 27, 2008
The malfunctioning part in my case is what ford calls the "integrated wheel end" which locs the weel hub on the four wheel drive in or out as need. Part is available from Ford and cost about $110.00. I will do this repair myself.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
Operationally vacuum holds the IWE ( Integrated Wheel Ends ) out, and once vac is removed the spring engages the IWE.
Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground ( take safety precautions, chock wheels, jack stands, etc )
Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft.
If it turns it is a problem with the transfer case.
If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem.
- If the front drive shaft does not turn :
Shut of the truck ( still jacked up, and supported ) remove the vac lines from the IWE. The spring should push the gears in, without the vac line on.
Check the vent line ( tube that is routed into the engine compartment with nothing attached to it ), for blockages.
If the vent line is clear, and with the vac lines off the IWE should be engaged ( both front wheels locked ).
If they lock, the problem is with the IWE solenoid not shutting off vacuum to the IWEs. There is a TSB on the 2004-2006 IWE solenoids, a newer revision has been made, and used from 2007 and newer MYs.
Here is a block diagram of the IWE system
Posted on Dec 20, 2009
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