Question about 1996 Oldsmobile 88
Fuse under the hood for door locks, tuck release and horn is good. fuse under the dash looks good but when tested isn't getting power. I assume it is a relay problem but cant source it.
The central element here is not a relay but the multi-function alarm lock & lighting (MALL) module. You indicate the 20A fuse in the relay center is OK. The MALL also receives BAT power through 15A CTSY/PWR MIR FUSE 6A and IGN input through 15A IGN CHIME/CLSTR FUSE 10 in the I/P fuse block. Voltage from 20A SIG/BU/LP BTIS/CCR FUSE 18 in the I/P fuse block passes through the park/neutral position switch in PARK position to supply PARK POSITION INPUT to the MALL. All of these inputs are required for the MALL to function correctly.
Posted on Apr 21, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you need to Check the Wire inside the Steering wheel, When Grounded by pressing horn button the relay will send the 12 volts to Horn,
You Also could and Please Re-check the Color of wire for the Horn SHOULD be a Black Wire in the wire loom Under the Dash on the Column and If you Ground down the Black wire from Under the dash, You would Find out If it is In fact the Steering wheel it self,
you could also add a Second Button on the Dashboard
black wire to Button and then to Ground body,
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
SOURCE: radiator fans won't come on
Hey I had the same problem with my 95 olds cutlass supreme. First i checked that the fans were receiving power by testing the voltage. Then I noticed that they were recieving voltage just not coming on. When the engine temp got pretty high, they finally came on, another words the gauge could be broken or the engine just does not tell the fans to come on until it has reached a high temp. So i started the vechicle, left it in park and gave it gas until the temp guage read very high, it reached like 230 to 250 then the fans came on. Try getting the temp up there and then see if the fans come on an dlet me know at email@example.com
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
for the hood latch you may be able to reach up between the grill and condenser to where the latch is and pull on the cable lever to release it it' not easy but it might work for you,i had to do this to my 94,as for the electric problems there seem to be lose connections or a relay is bad,also for the battery problem the cables sometimes get battery acid going into the cable and you can't see it and it eats away at the cable inside the the insulation,you need to check all connections you can find and clean them and tighten them also have your altenator checked for proper output,auto zone should be able to check it for you for free,hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 17, 2009
Retrain the fobs following the procedure in your owner's manual:
Once entering this procedure, programming the first transmitter erases all previous transmitters. You must program all transmitters.
Program one vehicle at a time. One transmitter could be programmed into other vehicles that are also on
program mode in close proximity.
1. Sit in the driver's seat.
2. Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
3. Close all vehicle doors.
4. Press and hold unlock on the door lock switch.
5. While holding the door lock switch in the unlock position, insert and remove the ignition key twice. Do
not rotate the ignition lock cylinder.
6. Insert the ignition key a third time leaving the key in the ignition lock cylinder. The ignition must remain
in the LOCK position for the rest of the procedure.
7. Release the door lock switch. You will hear three chimes. This chime feedback indicates that transmitter
programming is active.
8. Press and hold the lock and unlock buttons at the same time on the keyless entry transmitter for 12
seconds. You will hear two chimes. This chime feedback indicates that the transmitter has been
9. Repeat step 8 for the rest of the transmitters (for a total of 4 transmitters).
10. Exit this procedure by removing the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
Posted on Apr 06, 2010
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