Question about 2002 Ford Taurus

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Getting a code for smog pump

Need to know where smog pump located to replace

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Better check that info again. inspect belt routing diagram and vacuum diagram for thermactor pump and thermactor air system parts being present on your calibration. to my recollection there was no thermactor air used. where would they put all that plumbing?
pump, diverter valve, exhaust check valves, upstream and downstream air tubes? a ford has a label on the radiator support depicting the usage, hose color, and general vicinity in a schematic for ford technicians to identify. there is also a belt routing diagram that depicts the pulleys for the components. you dont have one...right?
you may have a code glossary for older vehicles. get the right manual at the library for free and restart diagnosis. or goto the emissions authorized repair facility and get the question answered after a quick self test

Posted on Apr 21, 2014

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I will list some of my experiences with similar problems.

V-belt quality and grade vary a lot and I do mean a lot. Belts can take a set from sitting--anybody with a table saw will attest to this. I would try a new belt first after finding a good parts man. A good alternator shop (rare today) can help here. The smog pump belt is an easy one to change. Try the cheap stuff first.

Smog pumps in my experience do not need a lot of power, especially at idle, but I have had bearing and pump failure on several wipe out a belt. Pull the belt and spin the smog pump by hand.

Belts can glaze and it is not necessarily noticeable. Stamped-steel pulleys polish smooth and won't transmit the power needed. Pulleys can also wear in some strange shapes so a new belt does not fit properly. See if an alternator shop has a cast iron pulley for the alternator. Cast iron does not polish smooth and also wears off any glaze from the belt surfaces. The crank pulleys are stamped-steel but are larger in diameter with a longer wrap angle so slippage is not a problem there.

In my poor days I tried sanding the belts and pulleys to remove the glaze. Too much work and it was only temporary.

I have used a cast iron pulley on a 110 amp alternator with a winch load. A stamped-steel pulley would just smoke the belt when under load (winch drew 225 amps total!). My truck is 70 amp and that is the biggest alternator Ford has with a V-belt that I know of.

I considered removing my smog pump and associated hardware. My experience has been to leave everything intact unless I can replace everything with an earlier, non-smog engine. Doing everything piecemeal has just caused other problems.

Hope this helps.

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