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89 1500 chevy sierra 5.7lt. heater hose lcation diagram.

Heater hoses are now at rear of manifold and to radiator pass. Side under the cap. Have had over heat problem shortly after engine replacement because of clutch fan failure pulling a trailer. Replacement 5.7 had different hook up locations, but used them anyway. Also notable is amount of air activity in overflow tank. Lots of pressure released there.bubbling not boiling. suspect? Have climate module to replace under dash. Because heater won't even turn on. So I figured heater hoses best place to start. Suggestions?

Posted by Anonymous on


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: Coolant filling up overflow bottle

You may need to ask AAA to put a radiator pressure tester on the resevoir bottle and pump it up to operating pressure(Pressure cap rating) and see if it over pressurises while it is running at operating temp,rev engine up and down and watch what the testers pressure readings do,it should move up and down in sync with the water pump.If the pressure keeps building i would have to believe that combustion chamber gases are over pressurising your cooling system.Also test the pressure cap is functioning within factory specs.

Posted on Oct 30, 2008

  • 48 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 ford contour gets hot , no hot heater or temp guage movement

Is your temperature gauge working now? That is of more concern then your heater as you wouldnt know if your engine was overheating until its too late. Your heater core could be clogged, they get clogged quite easily. You can flush them or replace. The part is inexpensive but on some models you have to take out dash to replace them, but on other models it only takes about 30 mins and a few bolts.

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

  • 477 Answers

SOURCE: temp guage showing hot, not getting any heat for 1992 Mercury Cap

If the hoses to and from the heater core are hot , and you say the heater core is hot , then the only answer is that the air duct that flows into or out of the heater core plenum ( housing ) is not opening.
Heater control on dash borad inoperative.
Not sure about 92 capri , some cars have a cable linkage , some work on vacume motors.
Try to find a haynes manual for your car , they will walk you through almost every step of anything you may ever want to do to your car.

You seem to know what you are doing , but I gotta ask ........the heater core you felt was up behind the dash inside the passenger compartment of the car right ?

Posted on May 10, 2009

  • 50 Answers

SOURCE: Coolant Problems

Hi there. It sounds like you have done the most obvious checks and I can assure you by-passing the heater core will have no effect. There are three possible causes that you need to investigate further and you will need specialist equipment for it - you either have a hair-line crack in the head or cylinder wall or it might be that the head bolts are stretched and therefore weakened and so need replacement. To help you identify these aforementioned possible problems, you might need a specialist fluid that you put into the cooling system which changes colour when combustion chamber pressure enters the cooling system, you need to contact your local Ford Dealer for this - but then you still have the three possible problems to deal with - cracked cylinder wall/s, cracked head or stretched head bolts. Hope this helps, Scottech.

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

  • 477 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 Chrysler Cirrus overheating

Probably not water pump. Engine is notourious for vapour lock.
Cooling system must be blead of air before thermostat will work. Cool bottom rad hose is a dead give away. If you are still watching this forum reply , and I will walk you through the only way I know how to make it work properly. It's actually easy if you do it my way. I have worked on lots of cars , and this engine was the hardest to bleed out. Did one Yesterday , and works perfect.

Posted on May 16, 2010

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Hi Mark and welcome to Fixya. I am Kelly.

I think I can give you a solution that will get you back in business.

Before doing this you may want to drain about 50% of your Anti-Freeze coolant out and save it to reuse when your done.

1. Remove the top raditor hose and then the thermostat from under the "fitting" for the top hose of the radiator were it mates to the engine. Leave the fitting OFF the manifold / engine for now.

2. Stuff a garden hose in the hole and cover it with a rag.

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5. Have someone turn on the hose and hold the rag over the hole so that it forces the water from the hose through the engine. (Do this for well over 5 minutes until your sure all of the air is out of the system.

6. Turn off the water.

7. Reinstall thermostat manifold fittting and top radiator hose

(Radiator cap is still OFF)

8. Service the radiator with your Antifreeze you saved until the radiator is FULL to the almost the bottom of the radiator cap hole.

9. Start engine and let it warm up until the thermostat should open (i.e. reaches normal temp)

10 Manually and Rapidly increase engine speed several times from ilde to about 2000 RPM watching for water flow through the radiator.

11. After confirming water flow re-install the radiator CAP.

12. Check the heater for proper operation.

That is it... time to clean up the mess. Hopefully this solves your air lock in the engine cooling system.

P.s Check for leaks at the top hose and manifold fitting when the system reaches full pressure and don't forget that the Anti-Freeze is now diluted bigtime! .

Thanks for using Fixya!


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Lcation is underneath the dashboard, and to remove it, is very difficultImage Not Available

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If you really dont need it, just unhhook the heater by pass hoses, and cap them off...But you basically have to remove the dashboard to get to it..It is in the same casing with your evaporator...Goodluck..

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