Question about 1989 Chevrolet C/K 2500

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Choke ligt on at idle 1986 chevy w/ quadrajet carb

Year 1986 chevy truck 350 c.i. with quadrajet carb. Choke light comes on at idle. Choke is fully open when engine is warm. Strong fuel smell. Mpg has also dropped due to wasted gas.. no skip, hesitation or miss. Obviously dumping too much fuel??

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  • 16 Answers

Sounds like the float is sticking or may have a hole in it, you can try adding some automatic transmission fluid to the gas - sometimes works if it sticking,check for a vaccume leak - but usually won't overfuel with a leak- but has happend.

Posted on Apr 20, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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csmock132
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SOURCE: 1994 Chevy 1500 350. No Power.

Check fuel pressure.

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

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SOURCE: Choke Light rough idle

adjust your carb, the 2 screws on each side of the carb adjust so you can get the car to idle correctly, also check your distributor

Posted on May 26, 2009

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SOURCE: 93 chevy 1500 4wd trans. shift problems.

Also check your detent cable if is not adjusted correctly it will not shift properly

Posted on Aug 16, 2009

peterrance19
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SOURCE: 83 s-10 2.8 engine needs choked to idle. Open choke

hi if your backfiring your timing is a little out also increase you idle speed on your carb by ajusting your throttle screw hope this helps if you find this useful please rate it thanks

Posted on Nov 20, 2009

hfmiles
  • 1165 Answers

SOURCE: 1981 chevy pickup with a carburated 305 is hard

Is the choke operating properly? You say the current carb has an electric choke, so I am assuming the original carb did not have an electric choke. If that's the case, have you wired the electric choke to a power supply?

Posted on Dec 19, 2010

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My choke light stays on my 84 pontiac trans am. Why does this occurr and how can i fix this problem?


I bevieve that year is 305 or 350 with Throttle body injection so remove air cleaner cover start car allow to warm up then see if plate below main injector opens when engine is revved ..if it does then be sure it is partially open at idle .. check wiring underside of air cleaner / loose / heat damaged -----Or if Aftermarket air cleaner then unplugged wires from factory must be looped to create all ok signal .....The Throttle plate at base of unit or old style carb can wear creating unstable idle or choke light signal due to inconsistant air flow ..

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You haven't provided a lot to go on here but I'll take a stab in the dark. If you are somewhere that is unusually cold, maybe you just need to let it warm up. Could be the choke is not working, could be the choke is closing but wont open because the heat riser passage in the intake manifold is plugged up with carbon, could be the fuel pump is weak or the filter is plugged and the carb is starving for fuel even though the tank is full.

To check the choke operation, take off the air cleaner lid before you try to start it and operate the throttle by hand while watching the choke plate. It should snap shut. If it does rack the throttle two more times, start it up and watch the choke plate. it should open just a little (maybe 3/8') on a cold day let it run on fast idle for a few minutes, as it starts to warm up the choke should open more. And be fully open after a little while. Given it's age it would not surprise me at all if the carburetor is not working right. If you are going to take it to a shop, look for a mechanic in his late 40's. I know that sounds weird but most of the young guys out there have never even seen a quadrajet let alone rebuilt one.

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JUST REPLACED CARB ON MY 1992 CHEVY SILVERADO WITH A 4.3 LITER. NOW IT STARTS AND RUNS FINE UNTIL IT WARMS UP THEN DIES AND WONT START FOR 30 MIN


How many rpm's is it running at when you first start it up and it is running on the choke? Does it gradually start to idle back and then start to die r does it do it all of a sudden and dies?

When running with the choke on, it is on the high idle circuit of the carb, as it warms up the idle should slow down and then idle in the 800 rpm range in Park, 650 in Drive. This will be the low idle circuit range. This transition inside the carb will cover an idle air bleed hole in the venturi of the carb and lean out the mixture. If you notice that the carb smells gassy and black rich unburnt gases are coming from the tailpipe, the problem is located within the carb and requires a carb tech to do a rebuild of the carb. You could try a good carb cleaner like Lucas by putting it into the gas tank, in case you just got a bad tank of gas, but that is just a bandaid for a more deeply rooted problem. Get the carb rebuilt?

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When I first start my Vette, it runs rough, like a carb car does if the choke isn't closing enough. Then after it gets warmed up and hot, it doesn't want to start back up and acts like it's vaporlocking...


On the start up thing: Look at the CHOKE PULLOFF. It's job is to open the choke enough to run. The diaphram inside fails often, from heat.

On the after warmed up thing: If this is a Quadrajet, when warm, just before you were to start it; without touching any throttle; open hood, pull air cleaner; look and smell all around for fuel. Carb floats eventually accept some fuel and become heavy, and will leak when warmer...

If you have zero, essentially, signs of raw fuel or smell....Look down the carb, and open the throttle, and hold open. You should see a squirt of fuel into each primary venturi. If no fuel, you should also have hesitation on acceleration.

Another quadra jet issue is drilling plugs. THis is between the carb body and the throttle plates. Rebuild kits have a sponge thing to seal that area, but without it and with leaking plugs, your FLOAT bowl drains of gas.....

If you cannot do these thing, take the text to the person that will work on it. These issues are typical, but when fixed, the Qjet is one of the best and most stable carbs out there.

Mike@MikePlayer.com

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