Question about 1985 Toyota Corolla 2 Door
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rod bearing knocking
These procedures may be performed with the engine in the car. If additional overhaul work is to be performed, it will be easier if the engine is removed and mounted on an engine stand. Most stands allow the block to be rotated, giving easy access to both the top and bottom. These procedures require certain hand tools which may not be in your tool box. A cylinder ridge reamer, a numbered punch set, piston ring expander, snapring tools and piston installation tool (ring compressor) are all necessary for correct piston and rod repair. These tools are commonly available from retail tool suppliers; you may be able to rent them from larger automotive supply houses.
Remove any splash shield or rock guards which are in the way and remove the oil pan.
Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
One piston will be at the lowest point in its cylinder. Cover the top of this piston with a rag. Examine the top area of the cylinder with your fingers, looking for a noticeable ridge around the cylinder. If any ridge is felt, it must be carefully removed by using the ridge reamer. Work with extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.When the ridge is removed, carefully remove the rag and ALL the shavings from the cylinder. No metal cuttings may remain in the cylinder or the wall will be damaged when the piston is removed. A small magnet or an oil soaked rag can be helpful in removing the fine shavings.
After the cylinder is de-ridged, squirt a liberal coating of engine oil onto the cylinder walls until evenly coated. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly upwards from the bottom by using a wooden hammer handle on the bottom of the connecting rod.
The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
Crank Main caps Tightening Torque
For the 12 Pointed Head Bearing Cap Sub-Assembly Bolts
Start from center bolts and tighten in a clockwise rotation working out
Step 1 all bolts 22 Nm or 16 ft lb
Step 2 all bolts 44 Nm or 32 ft lb
Step 3 all bolts 45 degrees additional clockwise rotation using an angle indicator.
Step 4 all bolts 45 degrees additional clockwise rotation using an angle indicator.
Hexagon Head Bearing Cap Sub-Assembly Bolts
1ZZ-FE Engine 18.5 Nm (14 ft.lb)
2ZZ-GE Engine 18 Nm (13 ft.lb)
1. Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under the heads of the connecting rod cap bolts.
2. Install and alternately tighten the 2 connecting rod cap bolts in several passes. Torque: 1ZZ-FE: 20 Nm (204 kgf-cm, 15 ft. lbs.) 2ZZ-GE: 30 Nm (306 kgf-cm, 22 ft. lbs.) If any of the connecting rod cap bolts does not meet the torque specification, replace the connecting rod cap bolts.
3. Retighten the cap bolts by 90° more
4. Check that the crankshaft turns smoothly.
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
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