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1983 nissanpickup voltage regulator

Alternater good new battery will charge witn plug in charger alt will not charge battery

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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deathraider
  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: voltage regulator

on newer cars the regulator is located in the alt. , you probably got a bad alt. exchange it for another

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

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john6970
  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 Nissan Pulsar charging problem

The alternator it self is bad internal not the regulator!

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

  • 40 Answers

SOURCE: troubleshooting alternater for 1997 nissan sentra

Check the wiring between the alternator and the battery, especially at the battery end there is a fusable link there that might be blown.

Posted on Dec 07, 2009

  • 2468 Answers

SOURCE: Alternator does not charge battery. Alternator light glows.

check for an inline fuse between the alt and battery,otherwise take a jumper cable from the positive terminal on the battery to the alt. battery terminal output direct and now check for charge

Posted on Mar 13, 2010

  • 14036 Answers

SOURCE: having charging problem,replaced alternator but

CHECK ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES FOR DAMAGE.CHECK BATTERY FEED SMALL RED POSITIVE CABLE TO ALTERNATOR.IF YOU NOT GETTING 12 VOLTS TO POSITIVE WIRE TO ALTERNATOR WIRE IS BROKEN INSIDE OR YOU HAVE A BLOWN FUSE LINK.CHECK FOR BLOWN ALTERNATOR FUSE.SOME TIMES VERY OLD BATTERY CABLES WILL CAUSE STARTING AND CHARGING PROBLEMS.TURN OFF RADIO FIRST BEFORE REMOVING BATTERY CABLES TO KEEP FROM LOCKING OUT RADIO.

Posted on Dec 12, 2010

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2000 astro van Battery and alternater are both new and checked out to be in working order. I am only getting 12 volts charging with the motor running should be 14 to 15 volts. In desperate need of ideas of...


You may have a voltage drop in the battery feed to the Alternator through the fuse link and into the battery. Check the charge rate at the battery feed on the Alternator, it should be at least 13.8 volts, if it is, locate the fuse link and check it there on both sides of the link, if its still good, follow the cable back to the battery checking the voltage as you go. If you find that the voltage suddenly drops across a connection or the fuse link, remove and clean the connection or replace it if possible. If the voltage at the back of the Alternator is less then 13 volts, then the new Alternator may be faulty. If the voltage is higher then 15 volts, then the Battery feed to the Alternator is bad and MUST be fixed. Check these voltages with the engine running but watch out for moving parts ( fans etc). If you think the battery feed to the Alternator is bad, shut the engine down and recheck the voltage at the Alternator, it should be at least the same as it is across the battery. If there is no power to the Alt when the engine is off, start at the fuse link, checking for voltage and trace back to the alt until you lose the reading. If you get no voltage at the fuse link, track it back to the battery. The voltages at the battery and Alternator should be the same or only have a difference of half a volt, any more and you need to locate and fix the bad connection. DO NOT run the Alternator without the load of the battery for extended periods as this will damage the Alternator. The Alt needs the internal resistance of the battery to function correctly. If the voltages from the battery to the alt are correct, check the regulator wiring. If memory serves, there are two small wires to the alt which are in a small plug into the alt and one thick cable which connects to a bolt on the alt. The thick cable is the battery feed, the two small cables are the regulator feeds. One small cable operates the warning lamp in the dash cluster and the other is another battery feed which gives the regulator an indication of the charge rate AT THE BATTERY so if this one is missing the regulator will also cut out. The warning lamp wire serves as an indication to the regulator that the ignition is turned on and makes the alternator charge. This lamp should be on with ignition on but engine NOT running and should go out when you start the engine. If this lamp does not light up at all, suspect a broken or missing warning lamp connection or faulty regulator.A blown warning lamp bulb will also prevent the alt from working, this is because the bulb is fed with power and is grounded at the alt through the regulator and exciter diodes, feeding the regulator with power until the engine starts, then the alternator output essentially puts power to both sides of the diodes causing the lamp to extinguish. A diode is a one way valve for electricity and the regulator is inside the alt. If you suspect a faulty alt or regulator, remove them and have them checked by an autoelectrician. Unless you know what you are doing, DO NOT attempt to disassemble the alt as you can cause catastrophic damage and have to purchase a replacement alt. You may also void any warranty by disassembling the alt.. Undertake these tests and if you have any questions, email me here: swoop@live.com.au
Dave.

Dec 15, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Astro

1 Answer

I have a 1995 Mitsubishi Montero LS. The voltage


easy test on alt start car loosen pos cable.then take off cable from batterie if alt is good it wont cut out.if it does,more than likely your alt. if the belt was the problem it would be noticeable by squealing and audible slipping.and most voltage regulators are built into the alternaters these day.

Nov 27, 2009 | 1995 Mitsubishi Montero

1 Answer

Not charging


First tell me why you don't think it's charging.
Because of the voltage reading you are getting at the battery terminals? The range you want is between 13.6v to 14.2v. The higher the voltage the lower the amps. and true the other way, the lower the voltage the higher the amps. If you get a reading of 13.6v or lower, the alt is nearing or at max output. An alt can only run at maximum for around fifteen minutes and it will start slinging solder from overheating. It's a good indication the battery is either totally dead or junk. Charging above 14.2 the alternater is running wide open and is only putting out high volts which will cause the battery to boil , in turn destroying it. This is a bad alternater. All alternaters have integrated voltage regulater with the exception of ver few of the earlier ones. You cannot test an alternater by removing a battery cable to see if the engine keeps running without taking great risk of damaging the alt, regulator. So tell me why you feel it isn't charging. Remember an alt is not made to charge dead batteries. Their sole function is to maintain the battery charge. Without a battery, the alt won't last 10 seconds.
Hope to hear from you and good luck.

Sep 23, 2009 | 1986 Chrysler LeBaron

3 Answers

Bought new alternator and installed it and still cuts off if not connected to jumper cables???


its probly not charging or you might want to test the battery might be bad also did you have the old altenator tested check for power to voltage regulator at the alt to see if there is power presnt otherwise it will never charge without that power wire hot with key on engine off.

Sep 16, 2009 | 1983 Toyota Pickup

2 Answers

Car putting out to high of voltage. New battery in car, now dead.


Usually when the battery light comes on it means there is a problem with the alternator. It means it is putting out less than 12.2-12.5 volts.

Jul 10, 2009 | 2000 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

Battery indicator switching off and on and running lights with it


Your alternater is boarding a plane out of town. Actually it's the regulator built into the alt. Have your battery and alternator both tested. High charging voltage can burn up yor battery and lights. Here it is in a nutshell. The lower the voltage the higher the charging amps. At 15 volts the alternater is not charging the battery but simply pouring out voltage.. Have your battery load tested because it tell the alt wat to do, Have the alternater test to see if it has a comprehension problem. IFirst, make sure your batt cables are clean and tight.. Especially the negative cable.Good luck

Jun 14, 2009 | 2002 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

Charge problems


Appeats voltage regulator ha a plroem, but, check battery wwater level before replacin battery or alternater.

May 27, 2009 | 1989 Honda Prelude

1 Answer

Not getting charge 1983 ford bronco


Prob you should replace the starter solenoid, i think there is a connection for the battery there. also when you replaced the alt did you replace the wiring and plug? you have to solder a new one in place. also a lot of people think their problem is when the engine is running an what is really a problem is some kind of a voltage drain durning the night. with the key off and all doors closed pull a battery cable off and put a 12 v bulb between the cable and the battery. if it glows bright then you have a voltage drain. thats easy to find just start pulling fuses while an assistant watches the light. when it goes out or dims you have found the curcit that is draining. you may get some small drain from radio and clock type stuff.
Oh and I have gotten a bad alt "new" from the parts house. now I always make them test the new one before i leave the store.

Jan 19, 2009 | 1983 Ford Bronco

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