Question about 2005 Honda CR-V
The clicking noise will be a relay working so find it by feel and you will have the problem source. You will then have to find out why the circuit to the relay is intermittent to cause the clicking
Posted on Apr 19, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The list of things to check is long and for the most part basic. I'd start with general tune-up diagnostics. My money is on the the dist cap & rotor as your culprits -these get the most wear, easiest to fix and the 1st place I'd look. It will cause it to run rough and die when you accelerate because it is not firing or firing the wrong cylinders. It may look good but still have a crack that you can't find. But I predict you will find a nice little pile of carbon dust and states of corrosion on the rotor & pins in the cap like I did when I had the same problem on my Civic a few years ago.
If that doesn't do the trick, you want to start by determining if it is dying from too little fuel or a weak spark
Weak spark will cause flooding- too much gas leftover after a weak spark eventually floods the engine- you will probably smell gas at the throttle body and you will have to wait before it will start again due to flooding. Not an absolute diagnostic, but if you smell fuel you can be pretty sure your problem is ignition or emissions related. It may still be an emissions component such as EGR or even a clogged cat or a potato stuck up the tailpipe.
Lean fuel conditions point to the fuel filter, fuel rail and fuel pump pressures and injectors.
General tune-up diagnostics:
Ignition: dist cap & rotor; Check plugs and wire conditions; Ignition coil or transistors may be bad but not causing a total loss of spark
Fuel & Emissions: Fuel filter, fuel rail pressures, EGR & PCV valves; check diagnostic codes from your OBD it might give a clue.
Hows your compression and timing? If you have over 90Kmiles and you haven't replaced your timing belt it may have stretched or jumped a gear notch. If this is the case you should change it before it breaks and bends your valves, causing expensive damage to the valve train.
If you want to fix your own then pick up a Haynes manual for your model and pick up the Haynes emissions & fuel injection books to demystify emissions computer codes, troubleshooting and repair. You can probably borrow these from your library or pick them up cheap at a used book store if money is tight.
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
An IAC (idle air control) motor is designed to adjust the engine idle RPM speed by opening and closing an air bypass passage inside the throttle body. The car computer or ECM (electronic control module) receives information from various sensors and will output signals to adjust the IAC motor in or out to adjust engine idle speed by controlling engine idle air.
An IAC motor is highly susceptible to carbon and coking build up; if an IAC goes too long without cleaning it can cause stalling and poor idle quality. Some cars are designed with a large vacuum transfer hose that connects the intake manifold to the IAC (idle air control) motor. If a broken or dilapidated these vacuum lines can cause the engine to lose vacuum which will allow the engine to run rough and die.
Inspect all engine and accessory vacuum lines to look for missing, torn or dilapidated lines and replace as needed. To check the IAC motor remove the unit, with the wires connected turn the key to the "on" position without starting the engine, the IAC should move in or out.
If the IAC motor does nothing it has probably failed, replace it with a new unit and recheck system. Note: while the IAC motor is removed clean (use aerosol carburetor cleaner) the passages the IAC uses to control idle air speed.
Good luck and hope this helps
Posted on May 08, 2009
This sounds like a classic vacuum leak problem. Check under hood to make sure all the hoses are connected or have someone who knows how do it for you. Locate the air sensor in the fresh air intake stream and make sure there are no leaks between it and the engine.
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
May 28, 2015 | 2003 Honda CR-V
Mar 19, 2015 | 2003 Ford Explorer
Aug 26, 2010 | 1997 Ford Taurus
Mar 15, 2010 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks
Feb 24, 2010 | 1984 Chevrolet Caprice
Jan 26, 2010 | 2005 Dodge Ram 1500
May 28, 2009 | 1998 Ford Explorer
May 08, 2009 | Honda CR-V Cars & Trucks
Jul 12, 2017 | Hyundai Motor 2002 Elantra
Mar 01, 2017 | 2005 Honda CR-V
109 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: