Question about Cars & Trucks
The standard Starter relay has 2 mounting holes then you can see it has 2 copper studs 5/16 diameter one goes to battery positive and the other goes to the starter then the 2 smaller studs have letters indicating there power source "s" and "i" S stands for start this wire comes from the ignition switch The I is ignition bypass wire and is only used on point ignition and early solid state ignition systems . on 1981 it is not needed.
Posted on Apr 19, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: need wiring diagram
Go to autozone.com and register they have good wiring diagrams for your truck.What I saw was all the relays going to ground so you should have 12V coming off the ignition switch.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
SOURCE: 2000 ford f150 starter wiring
have a look on here , it may be able to give you some idea
Posted on Sep 07, 2009
I have provided an image that will assist you and it will connect like so;
1. Connection 1 should have the Pos. (+) battery cable and all of the wires with the large eyelet connectors from the wiring harness connected to it, except for the large cable that runs down to the starter.
2. Connection 2 should only have the large cable going down to the starter connected to it, and there should be no other wire connected there.
3. Connection 3 is the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid, and it is the wire with the small push on connector that is hot only when the key is in the "start" position, usually it is a red wire with a blue stripe, but that is not always the case.
4. Connection 4 is the "I" connection on the starter solenoid and it feeds current back into the ignition, and it is not used on a lot of vehicles after 1981, but if your vehicle has it it will be a small push on connector that will not have any power from it at all, and it will usually be a black wire with a white stripe, but that is not always so.
Posted on Jul 10, 2010
SOURCE: 96 ford F150 won't start
Check the battery-to-starter cables for corrosion and clean the battery end of the cables. If there is a yellow or white powder on the battery around the battery connections, you may have a cracked seal around the battery post. The crack is usually microscopic, but will allow a small amount of acid to get into the connector.
The way to prevent seal cracking with clamp-type connections is to apply a counter-torque with one hand while using a wrench on the clamp with the other (picture how the wrench is trying to bend the battery post, then pull the clamp in the opposite direction to keep the post from being bent in that direction). I used to have lots of trouble until I hit upon doing this; since then I hardly ever have connector problems and my batteries last much longer.
Explanation for the clunk, followed by silence: The bad connection can pass enough current to pull in and hold the starter solenoid (clunk), but has too much resistance for running the loaded starter motor. If you put a voltmeter on the starter terminal, you will probably discover you have less than 8 Volts on the starter motor even though the battery is at or near 12 Volts. The rest of the power is being wasted as heat in the bad connection.
Posted on Apr 11, 2011
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