Question about 1997 Dodge Stratus

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Car stalls, starts up then stalls again, starts up and stalls again

I have a 1997 Dodge Stratus es 2.5l v6. It had been running fine until 2 weeks ago when it stalled on my way to work. It started back up, but stalled again a short distance later. It died this 3 or 4 times in about 2 miles. I pulled over into a parking lot and waited about 5 minutes while I called in to work to let them know I would be late. I then started up and drove me home with no problems. I checked for lose or broken wires and vacuum lines the best I could without tearing the engine apart. I then replaced the fuel filter, and most of the fuel line due to rust. I took car for a test drive only to have the same problem after a few miles. Sometimes it would just sputter and lack power for a bit like it was out of gas other times it would sputter and die like it had no spark until I started it again. It does this after a couple 2 or 3 miles from a cold start up, to running fine for 10 or more miles then acts up again. No codes have been triggered, so I have clues on which way to go to fix my problem. any advice would be appreciated.

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  • jim winn
    jim winn Apr 18, 2014

    The computer could be going bad, pull the battery cables off for a couple of mins. let it reboot and give it a try, the older dodges are bad for that, it might also be the EGR valve.

  • Patrick Armstrong
    Patrick Armstrong Apr 20, 2014

    I had the battery disconnected when I had the gas tank out to replace the fuel flter and repair the gas lines

  • Layne Johnson
    Layne Johnson May 04, 2014

    Sounds like a crankshaft sensor is your check engine light on ?


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  • Dodge Master
  • 808 Answers

This could have several problems. #1 Fuel pressure due freezing water in fuel lines add thermal aid or rubbing alcohol . If you have access to a pressure gauge there is a service fitting on fuel rail that you can test pressure while driving and see if the pressure is gone when car dies this could lead to fuel pump electrical or more restricted lines. #2 intermittent sensor failure Mopar uses 2 sensors to control spark and fuel lose one could lose spark lose the other lose injection with a scanner they call it C/C sync ok (cam/crank) if no then check for each parameters for display.# 3 relay controls ASD and FUEL pump for voltage drops.

Posted on Apr 19, 2014

  • Patrick Armstrong
    Patrick Armstrong Apr 20, 2014

    this car has the v6 engine, it has no service port (schraeder valve) on it, I had to get a master pressure gage set and tap into fuel line, which I did today,after checking sensors and testing EGR for vacuum leaks. car ran perfect for 4 straight hours, mild, normal, and hard excelleration, smooth and rough roads, 30, 45, 55, 70 MPH. I put about 150 miles on it with the gage on trying to get a reading. the car ran perfectly the whole time. GRRRR!

  • Dan Jacobs
    Dan Jacobs Apr 20, 2014

    This when you pull your hair out i had them like this. but trying to recreate the conditions of failure is hard so many factors change out side weather conditions from cold to hot changes things some times driving with the hood no fully closed stop the heat build so thermal breakdown of electronic components just do not happen if you suspect the cars computer we would take it out and put it in the freezer for 30 minutes then re install start and run car while tapping on computer gentle slap severasl times during 5-10 minutes if engine fault er it was a loss soder connection internally . keep me posted i give you some ideas after ruling out fuel pressure


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Car stalling out and bot starting after being driven for awhile.

mcdevito75 Here, It"s possible the ignition Module is going bad, no way to test and if so, one day the car will not start at all.----------It can also be a vapor loc, wher the fuel is evaporating before it reaches the cylinders. Best Bet, have your local shop check both these items.

Posted on Jun 19, 2010

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Dodge Stratus SE with 39,000 miles on it. Stalls when put in reverse and does not re-start for days to weeks later. Already replaced fuel pump and computer 8 months ago and now the car is doing

I agree with the CPK crank sensor; you can ohm it out to see if its good or not. Another thing that I have seen cause this is the shift interlock switch or sometimes called the safety interlock switch when they get old and tired they can stick and cause the car to not start. Some electronics cleaner may buy you some time if that the problem. One more thing to look at is the fuel filter and fuel pressure at the rail.....I am guessing that was already done with the fuel pump replacement though. Try this when the car won't start; turn the ignition key on to the point when all of the dash lights come on but don't turn the motor over, listen for a 2-3 second humming sound. That sound is the fuel pump coming on. Now roll the key to off and then back to the point where you can here the pump come on again but, don't crank the motor yet........Do this with the key 5 times with 2-3 seconds between turns. on the fifth try crank the engine and see if she starts. If she does you have a failing fuel pump, a dirty fuel filter or a bleed at your fuel rail. If she still doesn't start look at the CPK. Do you have any CEL or check engine lights on? Should have asked that first, sorry. Good luck and post again if you can't get her figured out.

Posted on Apr 06, 2014

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