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You have rvc/regulated voltage control, that circuitry is in your pcm. I'm not saying the pcm is faulty, at the moment, I don't know? You also have a battery temp sensor in the battery tray housing, that might cause problems?
Check for applicable charging system trouble codes, if you haven't already.
Check wiring with a test light or volt meter. switch lights to low beam, connect volt meter N probe to a good ground then probe the light socket for the low beam power cable, should show battery voltage, now switch to high beam and test for battery voltage if ok remove the grounded meter probe and probe the cable in the socket that you have not tested this is the ground cable, battery voltage should show if ground cable is ok. If no voltage repair cable ,If voltage present check filament on bulb high beam perhaps the new bulb is faulty.
1. Check the voltage output of the MAF sensor by measuring voltage on the Light Blue/Red (LB/R) wire with a Digital Volt-Ohm Meter (DVOM). A typical idle reading will show 0.7-1.1 volts at idle and the voltage should respond quickly and rise to above 3.0 volts during a snap acceleration of the throttle.
2. If the MAF voltage is out of range and/or it does not react during the snap acceleration of the throttle, replace it.
3. Check the Brown/White (BR/WH) wire of the Throttle Position (TP) sensor for a steady reading of 4.9-5.1 volts. If the voltage is out of range, verify PCM power and grounds are good before replacing the PCM.
4. Unplug the voltage regulator at the alternator and recheck the engine running condition and values as previously noted through the scan tool. If the engine runs better with more realistic pulse width values and good fuel trim functions when the voltage regulator is disconnected, replace the alternator assembly.
5. Wet down the ignition wires and coil pack and look for possible signs of electrical arcing that may be spiking the PCM and engine control components with electrical noise.
6. Inspect all battery cable connections including the connection to the fuse box, engine, block and body grounds near the battery. Address as needed.
7. Check the vehicle's fuel supply for a quality issue which could influence the engine operation because of excess alcohol, the presence of diesel, or any other contaminant. Drain the tank and flush the system as needed.
quick check is to remove a battery cable while the motor's running. If the motor stays running when you pull off the battery cable, the charging system is functioning properly, if it dies then there is a problem with the charging system. Don't leave it off long, as this test is stressful to the circuit. You can test the voltage regulator by putting a volt meter across the battery posts to verify voltage. A fully charged 12 Volt battery should show slightly above 12 volts DC. With the engine running and the volt meter hooked to the battery, the charging system should be showing around 13.8 volts DC.
I believe the main cause of your confusion is that you are assuming that your charging system consists of only the alternator, the battery, and the battery cables.
Your alternator is controlled by your Powertrain Control Module (PCM) The FIRST STEP in diagnosing this system is scanning the PCM for fault codes. Then the computer data (Battery Input Voltage PID) should be checked to see if the PCM is reading the same voltage that your volt meter is reading at the battery. If you have not done that, then you are shooting yourself in the foot trying to figure it out.
Internally shorted or sulfated batteries is a VERY COMMON cause of these symptoms. Proper testing of the battery (with the correct equipment and techniques) is required to verify if this is the cause of the problem. (computer systems do all kinds of irrational things when they start getting delirious from malnutrition)
Check the voltage on battery with a volt meter with car running. Voltage should be between 14-15 volts. If not then the pcm on car is causing the problem. The pcm (power control module is regulating the voltage from the alternator and you will need to carry it to a shop to see if the pcm can be reset or replaced. If the voltage is correct then the battery is at fault and you will need to replace the battery. Any battery that is a least 4 years old should be replaced and would not hold a charge. Hope this will help you.
the trouble codes are as follows code 12 problem with battery connection. direct battery input tp pcm disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on cycles. code 15 a problem with the vehicle distance/speed signal. no distance/speed sensor signal detected during road load conditions. code 55 completion of fault code display on check engine light. this is an end of message code. the speed sensor is located on the transmission/transfer case extension housing. check plug connection to speed sensor for power using an volt meter. connect the positive side of volt meter to the orange wire terminal and the negative side of volt meter to the black/light blue terminal. the voltage should be approximately 8.0 volts and to check the voltage from the pcm connect the positive end of volt meter to the white/orange wire terminal and the negative side ti the black/light blue wire terminal. signal voltage should be 5.0 volts. if there is no signal voltage signal, have the pcm checked out. if you have both signals from the terminals then remove the vehicle speed sensor and check the speedometer pinion for worn or missing teeth.