Question about 1997 Ford Explorer AWD

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Mileage When i reach the mileage that jiffy lube or some other oil change place has put on my windshield , how long after i reach that certain mileage do i have before i really need to go to get the oil changed??

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There is no reason you cannot go 6000 miles between oil changes. I have a Ford explorer with 250000 miles and I changed the oil every 10000 miles. I never had any engine trouble - it is still running very well.

Posted on Jun 09, 2014


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remove the unit fully and then reinstall it again and try

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SOURCE: Transmission Fluid

Manual trans as well as auto trans,the fluid should be changed once a year and/or every 30k miles.

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SOURCE: ford fusion 3 1600 diesel cam belt mileage change

75,000 miles for heavy urban city driving.
100,000 miles if you drive a lot of freeway.
Mix driving should be under 90,000 miles.
If your the timing guide (on the side of the timing belt cover) making noise then you should change it ASAP.
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Posted on Aug 26, 2009

Testimonial: "Excellent, just the information required. Many thanks"

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SOURCE: 97 F350 diesel check engine light stays on and is running rough?

Ok, lets take this from the top. I have a 97 f250 diesel. In mid may mine did the same thing. It's either one of two things. You have under valve cover harnesses (uvc). They slide in under your valve covers, you will see two wiring harnesses on the outside of the valve cover gaskets on either side of the block. Ok, it IS possible one of these slipped out of place and killed two of your injectors, causing the horrible running/ low idle/no power/ sounds like the truck is going to stall symptoms. The easiest way to check that is to unplug the wires while the truck is running and see if it kills the engine, if it doesen't unplug the other one on the same side of the valve cover. If both of these don't cause any change then you have a bigger problem, the IDM (Injector drive module).

FAIR WARNING: When you unplug the wires with the truck on it is extremely dangerous, it is 110 volt feed. It can kill you.

OK, the IDM is a silver box, 8"x10" approx dimensions, located on the driver side under the hood, over top the front tire. If you take the wires you unplugged and take a multi meter to them and they are dead, you have a bad IDM. This was the case with my truck. Ford designed the IDM to have a hole in the side to allow condensation to escape from it, unfortunately, this allows water inside and will short out resistors and practically kill half of your engine. Buy a new IDM on ebay for about $380. It takes 5 minuts to put it in.

I hope this helps you out man.

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

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SOURCE: 2005 Ford Expedition Transmission will

I assume that it is an automatic transmission

Posted on Oct 06, 2010

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I just got an oil change today. Drive the car for about ten miles and then the oil light came on???? I'm afraid to drive it back to the garage.

I'm afraid to ask, was it at one of those... Change your oil and Lube in Jiffy, places?
if so, you may have just got Lubed!
It is not as uncommon as one may think, to not put oil back into engine.
I would park the car, Call that place and have them come out and check it. Even if you are able to check the oil at the dipstick, yourself, don't do it. Let them come out and do it.

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Since the oil is more refined and filters are better these days (I would recommend Fram 3X or 6X filters), I go 5000 miles between changes. If your 2007 is up in the 80K-90K mileage range, you might want to look at the high-mileage oil as a substitute. You might also want to look at synthetic oil, which can stay in your engine even longer. As far as Jiffy lube or the dealership, not having used either, my best guess would be the Jiffy lube is faster and cheaper, but the dealership probably has better trained people doing the work and will check your car to make sure nothing else is wrong, while you are there.

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You did not mention the year make and model, but unless it is a diesel I doubt the weight of oil would do it.
I would take it back as quick as possible before it locks up.
You have checked to make sure the oil level is full, right ?

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The factory tends to use lightweight oil,to increase fuel mileage,
not good for the life of the engine,if heavier oil was put in place,mileage could drop,but not much,maybe 1 mpg,are you sure it's not because of
extended warm up times or more idling than usual?

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your problem could be that your muffler is damaged or ruined. i would see a car repair place like jiffy lube or maaco. ask for insurance too.

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Hello today i leaded out my Chevy Suburban truck to my sister she returned to me with the Service Engine Soon light on ?? Im sure she ran the truck up hill ? What might the problem be it was perfect this...

She didn't do anything wrong at all. Your truck is just fine and doing what it was designed to do. That's a normal indicator that comes on to remind you to get the oil changed. It's supposed to get reset every time the oil gets changed and frequently, Quickie Lube and other instant oil change shops will overlook resetting it. Look in your owners manual under "Resetting the Service Engine indicator light" and you can reset it yourself. Or just get the oil changed and tell them to make sure and reset it.

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When Jiffy Lube changed the oil in my 2009 Ford Expedition, they did not reset the "Change Oil" message in the instrument panel. Since I set out on a trip immediately after the service, I can't...

You can leave it,it is a gadget,not tied to any system

You should have an owners manual (still) on a 2009

Never go the Jiffy Lube

Read all the damage and horror stories ,on quick change

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Hear timing chain rattle when starting.

AND? are you going to change them or run it till it breaks and destroys the engine? You SHOULD have been changing the oil and filter at least 3 times a year, regardless of mileage--once before winter (mid Nov) once early Feb, once mid June.
Winter operation short trips causes lots of fuel dilution in the oil, leading to very rapid wear of timing chain, guides, and other sliding surfaces. 3 changes per year, 12 years, $20/change at 'jiffy lube' = $720, vs 1 change/year costing $240, 'saved' $480--but the worn-out timing chain is only the first of many more badly worn parts that will be showing up now.

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