There is no spark from the ignition control module (as inidicated by pulling the center distributor lead) after the engin is shut off for abour 30 minutes, after about 2 hours it works fine. It runs fine even when hot - just don't shut it off and go shopping for an hour.
1989 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0L 6cyl, EFI
No spark. I have changed out the distributor cap, rotor, wiring from coil to cap, and coil was replaced. I checked the distibutor by turning ignition key and observing the rotor turn. What else can I check. I did not observe a module.
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P0172 is a rich condition > I dough it would cause it to shut off after it warms up . If real rich , it would cause a no start at all . Fouled spark plugs , you can pull the spark plugs to see if they are black or wet with fuel . Starting and running till warm then shutting off is a classic sign of an electronic component starting to fail . Does it start right back up or do you need to wait till it cools down ? If it doesn't start right back up , pull the two plug wires off the same coil and have someone crank it over . Is there spark ? If not , probably ICM - ignition control module is bad . There are videos on youtube on how to test GM DIS ignition systems . (distributor less ignition systems )
pull one spark plug wire from the spark plug, and hold the metal contact inside it close to the engine block. Use insulated pliers or just set it close to metal where it will sit on its own. Watch the contact while someone else tries to start the car. you should see a fairly strong spark.
If spark 'yes' reconnect the plug wire and check to be certain you are getting fuel into the cylinders.
If spark 'no', reconnect the plug wire and do the same test on the primary lead from the center of the distributor cap.
It sounds like you may have a bad ignition control module or faulty wiring (includes connectors)
The ignition system on your 5.0L uses a distributor type system and will include the following components:
Ignition control module (ICM). Depending on the year of your specific Ford, it'll have a inner-fender mounted ignition control module or a distributor mounted ignition control module. hot sure which you have.
Ignition coil. you replaced it.
PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor. This is Ford's name for the crank sensor and is mounted inside the distributor. The most common name for this component is the pick up coil.
Distributor cap and rotor. you replaced
Spark plug wires. you replaced.
The thing to keep in mind about the ignition system is that all engine cylinders must get spark and the one thing that will stop the ignition system from creating spark on a wholesale scale is a BAD crank sensor.Have you pulled a plug then using some insulated pliers grounded it to the vehicle and turned it over to see if you have spark, that'll tell you alot.takes two people of course.Best of luck and hope this helps.
1998 it doesnt have a distributor ,so assuming its a older model then pull the middle lead out of the distributor cap and hold it close to the engine metal and crank engine if no spark then its a high probability its a ignition module
fancy getting brother to hold HT lead ,i havent stopped laughing yet and i have tears in my eyes ,try changing thte ignition module ,i think its inside the distributor on this ancient vehicle the white box is a radio capacitor i think .thats like me when i taught mechanics i sent this lad out to my transit DIESEL with a spark plug spanner to change the plugs ???
U will need to replace the TFI ignition module and the distributor stator to cure this, the TFI is mounted on the distributor, the stator is in side and you will need to remove the distributor and pull the shaft out to replace it.
Well it's possible that when the mechanic sprayed your engine he may have also used cold water or lukewarm water to rinse it. Or the silicone itself was cold coming from the can. If the coil/coil packs were hot at the time, or the ignition module was, it is likely that the cold liquid(s) spraying on the hot electronics may have cracked either the coil magnet or the ignition module causing them to fail. Repeated misfiring from damaged coils or ignition modules can cause failure at the rotor and distributor cap by constant crossfiring inside. You'll want to remove the distributor cap and look inside for evidence of burnt, broken, or cracked electrodes. If they appear blackened or melted/burnt you will definitely need to replace the cap and rotor. Before replacing them however, you may want to take a close look at your coil or coil packs and the ignition module. One way to check the coil to see if it is cracked is this: Place the vehicle in a darkened area or wait til it is dark out if you can't move it. Since the vehicle isn't running everything should be cold so this test won't damage anything any further. Fill a spray bottle with warm water. Spray a mist of water on the coil. Have an assistant crank the engine and watch in the dark the area of the coil. If you see a lot of arcing or a halo like effect of electricity you will know the coil magnet is likely damaged. If not, it is probably ok but you'll want to have the ignition control module tested. You can probably have this done at a reputable parts dealer or garage who have the correct electronic test devices. If both the coil and the ignition control module check out ok, go ahead and replace your cap and rotor then try starting her up. Anything that tests bad obviously must be replaced first to get it running and to prevent further damage to the ignition system. If you are getting no spark it is most likely the coil, second most likely the ignition control module. Good luck and let me know how it goes.