Question about 2005 Chevrolet Colorado
Should black coil assembly going across top of engine,remove and plugs will be located underneath.
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
They are under the intake box on top of the engine. If the miss goes away after the engine warms up then the head may be bad. Gm is having problems with these heads leaking air and loosing compression on a cold engine. There is a special policy for this problem, I think it's 7years and 100,000 miles. So if that is what ends up being the problem it will be fixed at the dealer free of charge.
Posted on Nov 22, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you very much and its nice to know it can be fixed by the dealer free of charge. Thanks"
SOURCE: changing spark plugs
This is the 3.5L inline 5 cylinder engine. The spark plugs are at the top of the engine. They are covered by a hunk of plastic called the "Air Intake Resonator". Remove the plastic. Carefully pull the ignition coils from the spark plugs. Unlike most other cars. The Colorado has a coil on every plug. This boosts ignition power, but, every coil is expensive. Do not harm them.
Posted on May 12, 2009
SOURCE: 2005 dodge grand caravan 3.8L
Ouch! A case of the raucous rodent! I've been there...Not fun trying to track down and repair all the damage.
First of all, let me explain how the code sets: The computer monitors the PRIMARY side of the coil to determine the burn time on the SECONDARY side of the coil. This can be a little confusing. The code will set when the computer determines that secondary ionization (burn time) was too short, too long, or did not occur at all.
If you have confirmed that there is no spark at the spark plug wires, then that is why the code is setting...ionization is not occurring at all. What can be a little confusing is that this can be caused by a failure in the PRIMARY coil circuit even though the code is indicating that the computer is having a problem with the SECONDARY circuit. (The secondary circuit can malfunction even though the primary side is functioning perfectly, but if the primary side malfunctions, the secondary side ALSO malfunctions - it is impossible for the secondary side to work if the primary side is not working.)
So, I said all that to tell you this: I think you have pretty much eliminated the entire secondary side of the ignition by replacing the whole circuit. So the problem must be on the primary side. (Probably more chewed wires)
There are 4 wires going to your ignition coil. The BROWN/WHITE wire comes from the ASD RElay and supplies battery voltage to the coil assembly. Since the other four cylinders are firing, This wire has to be OK.
The code you are getting is for coil #2. This coil is controlled by computer through the DARK BLUE/TAN wire. If you disconnect your coil connector and probe this wire with a test light connected to the POSITIVE battery post, it should "blink" when to crank the engine over. My guess is that it will not be blinking. You can do this also on the BROWN/ORANGE (coil #1) wire and the DARK BLUE/DARK GREEN (coil #3) wire to see the difference.
Anyway, if the DARK BLUE/TAN wire does not blink, then the wire is broken (chewed?) between the coil and the PCM.
Posted on May 08, 2011
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