Question about 1994 Acura Legend

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Bearing oil clearance and new size bearing

Greetings all. I need a little help. A couple months ago I spun a bearing on my car. I took the car apart to get to the oil pan and removed it. I discovered Rod #3 had spun. It scored up the crank pretty bad. So I did a little research online and decided to repair the crank in the car by using 400 Grit wet Sandpaper and a thick rope and wrap it around the crank three times and use a back and forth motion. It has taken me three days to get the crank to a mirror shine. It does still have tiny blemishes, but it it VERY smooth! Question #1. Should I remove even more even with tiny blemishes? Second issue. I bought standard size aftermarket rod bearings to replace the damaged bearings. However, after removing the material off the crankshaft it has left a larger oil clearance and the rod will again knock as before. I did plastigage the rod to crank with the new standard size bearing and had to move to a larger plastigage as the plastiage hardly compressed. I'm guessing the clearance is about .152mm. The Service Manual says the clearance should be .022-.046mm. I assume that would be for each bearing, correct? So, would that make it .044-.092mm? Still out of spec though. Question #2: What would be your recommendation is a bearing size then? I'm a little confused by the whole thing and need guidance. There is no way I could have removed that much material to throw it off that bad.

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  • Frank Villafuerte Apr 17, 2014

    If I did my math correctly, I would need two .03mm oversized bearings if my actual clearance is in fact .152mm and max spec for the bearing is .092mm. I cant seem to find bigger bearings to get the spec in the middle.

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Is the shaft a perfect shape, if a bit out, it will fail straight away as the hardened coating is now missing. Use Engineers Blue and check the shaft.

Posted on Mar 01, 2017

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The problem is probably not the throwout bearing. Noise from throwout bearings act just the opposite, you only hear them when you push in the clutch pedal. Noise when the clutch pedal is released only is either a bad pilot bearing (probably oilite bushing) (the bearing/bushing in the middle of the flywheel that supports the transmission input shaft), or bad transmission bearings (will happen sometimes but is unlikely because in neutral, with the clutch pedal released, tranny bearings spin, but are not really under any load, but in some cases they might be the cause of the noise anyway)

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SOURCE: How hard is it to replace the oil pan in an '04 Acura TL?

As to how hard it is to replace that depends. If you can remove the oil pan without removing any other parts then it is a simple repair. But if you must remove other parts in order to remove the pan it can be more difficult. Crawl under the car and see what must be removed in order to get the pan off. If you can buy a new oil pan for $95 then by all means buy it and replace it yourself or hire a trusted mechanic to do it for you. I can assure you it will not cost $300. At least find out what it will cost if done by someone other than the dealer. Honda's are reliable cars but their oil pan drain plugs are not. The problem is Honda uses an aluminum drain plug washer and this requires you to torque it to 29 ft/lbs in order for it to seal properly. Over time this will cause the pan threads, which are weak, to distort and eventually end up stripping out. The solution when you install your new oil pan is to not use an aluminum washer and instead use a fiber washer. If you pay someone else to change your oil, be sure and tell them to leave the fiber washer in place and not to install an aluminum washer. You then torque it to 15 ft/lbs and never have a leak or stripped threads. Another alternative is to just replace the drain plug with an inexpensive rubber drain plug you can purchase at any auto parts store. It will seal the drain and you just throw it away and install a new one at every oil change.

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SOURCE: Clearance to remove 93 Acura Legend starter

you can either remove driver's side halfshaft or battery tray and alternator to remove the starter. i chose the halfshaft, since it gave a little more room to unbolt the starter. no need to drain transaxle when removing driver's side halfshaft. unbolt balljoint and tierod end from knuckle. i also removed the pinch bold that attaches the strut to the knuckle to allow more movement to remove the axle. axle nut is 36mm. use a large screwdriver or small prybar to gently pry the halfshaft from the transaxle, be careful not to damage the seal. upper bolt on the starter is really tough to get access to...

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