Question about 1994 Acura Legend
Greetings all. I need a little help. A couple months ago I spun a bearing on my car. I took the car apart to get to the oil pan and removed it. I discovered Rod #3 had spun. It scored up the crank pretty bad. So I did a little research online and decided to repair the crank in the car by using 400 Grit wet Sandpaper and a thick rope and wrap it around the crank three times and use a back and forth motion. It has taken me three days to get the crank to a mirror shine. It does still have tiny blemishes, but it it VERY smooth! Question #1. Should I remove even more even with tiny blemishes? Second issue. I bought standard size aftermarket rod bearings to replace the damaged bearings. However, after removing the material off the crankshaft it has left a larger oil clearance and the rod will again knock as before. I did plastigage the rod to crank with the new standard size bearing and had to move to a larger plastigage as the plastiage hardly compressed. I'm guessing the clearance is about .152mm. The Service Manual says the clearance should be .022-.046mm. I assume that would be for each bearing, correct? So, would that make it .044-.092mm? Still out of spec though. Question #2: What would be your recommendation is a bearing size then? I'm a little confused by the whole thing and need guidance. There is no way I could have removed that much material to throw it off that bad.
No the oil clearance is correct for BOTH bearings @ .022 -.046 mm to try to get a true clearance measurement use a micrometer and measure in 4 places 90 degrees part this will check for out of round journal and compare to a factory journal size. there may be a .001 thousand or .002 thousand undersize bearing insert that will bring oil clearance in to specs. but most connecting rods get black from a spun bearing and they need to stay round so a inside micrometer is used to check that 10 times out 10 the connecting rod is replaced.
Posted on Apr 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: VSA problem. On three
If the car has not been for a routine full check up on the clocked mileage , I think it is only a possible clean up of all the wheels, the sensors that can help to eliminate this problem.
The other probable suspect can be the ABS itself acting erractic at times when there is a false sensing.Make sure all the wire lines to the sensors are good and tight.
Since the fault is turning up only at times, replacement with a suspicion is not a good solution as you might unnecessarily waste money for replacing good working spares.
So attempt the check up once again as you had done and observe the next time the fault occurs. Jack up all the wheels and check the brakes/ bearings once again.
Posted on Nov 02, 2010
As to how hard it is to replace that depends. If you can remove the oil pan without removing any other parts then it is a simple repair. But if you must remove other parts in order to remove the pan it can be more difficult. Crawl under the car and see what must be removed in order to get the pan off. If you can buy a new oil pan for $95 then by all means buy it and replace it yourself or hire a trusted mechanic to do it for you. I can assure you it will not cost $300. At least find out what it will cost if done by someone other than the dealer. Honda's are reliable cars but their oil pan drain plugs are not. The problem is Honda uses an aluminum drain plug washer and this requires you to torque it to 29 ft/lbs in order for it to seal properly. Over time this will cause the pan threads, which are weak, to distort and eventually end up stripping out. The solution when you install your new oil pan is to not use an aluminum washer and instead use a fiber washer. If you pay someone else to change your oil, be sure and tell them to leave the fiber washer in place and not to install an aluminum washer. You then torque it to 15 ft/lbs and never have a leak or stripped threads. Another alternative is to just replace the drain plug with an inexpensive rubber drain plug you can purchase at any auto parts store. It will seal the drain and you just throw it away and install a new one at every oil change.
Posted on Dec 08, 2009
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you can either remove driver's side halfshaft or battery tray and alternator to remove the starter. i chose the halfshaft, since it gave a little more room to unbolt the starter. no need to drain transaxle when removing driver's side halfshaft. unbolt balljoint and tierod end from knuckle. i also removed the pinch bold that attaches the strut to the knuckle to allow more movement to remove the axle. axle nut is 36mm. use a large screwdriver or small prybar to gently pry the halfshaft from the transaxle, be careful not to damage the seal. upper bolt on the starter is really tough to get access to...
Posted on Feb 05, 2010
did you try the distributor I just had the same problem with my acura and I changed the sensor and it did not work.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
Not sure this will work. Wondering if you could cut off your batteries and plug them back in again? It might do the reset on the CD as well since I know that the clock does get reset back to 12:00 or so.. All the best.
Posted on Jul 31, 2008
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