a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.
Taurus does not use a heater control valve. It runs coolant thru the
heater core constantly. You may have a temp blend door actuator problem
or a plugged up heater core is also very common. Feel the heater hoses,
they should both be very hot, it one is much cooler; you can try to
back flush the core.
Its more then likely the temp door broken or temp door motor broken/stuck. There is 2-3 of these motors under the dash on the side of the evap/heater core box. Some require extensive labor to replace, good luck
Your problem is a faulty heater control valve. The design used on these vehicles allows for hot water to flow constantly and compete with the evaporator as there is no blender door. You have to replace the valve and possibly the control head. Meanwhile, you can bypass the valve to have cold air
Hi. This will be the result of a failed resistor switch. the switch controls the current level sent to the blower motor. Once replaced, the motor will operate at your desired rate. This switch is an integrated part of the AC/Heater control cluster, that is mounted in your dash. You will need to remove the trim, and cluster assembly to expose the damaged switch.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
unplug the heater motor and put a hot wire to it to check the motor if it blows if the wire gets real hot you need to change the heater blower motor. You will probably need to change the heater fan motor resistor. follow the heater fan wire and it will go to the resistor
You probably created an air bubble, lock in heater core or the hoses that brings hot water to it when the coolant was replaced, you need to flush the system by loosening the heater hose at the highest point while the engine is running and is up to temperature.
THE DIOED IN THE FAN SWITCH IS GONE. CHECK VACUUM LINES IN ENGINE BAY FOR LEAKS OR BROKEN CONNECTIONS ON PASSENGER SIDE, THEY FEED ACTUATORS UNDER DASH THAT CONTROL HEATER FUNCTIONS.OR A VACUUM ACTUATOR COULD HAVE FAILED.
You may have air trapped in the lines to or from the heater core.
If you (still) have a real radiator cap on the radiator, remove it with a cold engine, start and run the engine allowing it to warm up while watching the water/coolant level.
Make sure the heater control is set to its highest heat setting while doing this.
If it is trapped air, you may see it 'belch' after the engine is warm and the engine thermostat is open.
Refill as needed if this is the case.
It's more difficult without direct radiator access and may require several cycles of hot/cold to allow refilling through the overflow.
Sounds like you need a blower motor resistor located down under dash on pass side next to blower motor. This is a comon problem and I have changed many of them. thats just the fan speed problem. Ive seen the blend doors break easily on those jeeps. thats inside the heaer core box and moves the flap from hot air to cold air. If it is stuck halfway -or mostly to cold- you may only get luke warm air. If they had the heater core out-maybe they possibly broke it.