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Re: clutch plate location
Hi Timothy, The clutch plate is fitted between the gearbox and the engine. Adjustment is carried out by lengthening or shortening the push rod. Some manufactures have adjustments between the slave cylinder and the clutch folk (underneath the vehicle) while others have adjustments between the top of the clutch pedal and the master cylinder, and others require replacement of the rod with shorter or longer, depending if the clutch is engaging to low or too high. If the clutch is slipping it will probably be too late for adjustment and require replacement of the clutch plate and possibly the clutch cover (pressure plate) and maybe the thrust bearing, Regards John
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this case means the pressure plate have problem and very soon you have to replace it , anther case if you use or add. different liquids Dot3 instead of dot4 or if you have leakage inside near clutch pedal replace only clutch master upper , if you did not add. replace pressure plate and clutch plate inside .
This may be one of two things, i have just repaired one with the same problem, the first thing may be the clutch slave cylinder, this is what pushes the clutch plate to release it or engege it, if this part is bad it will not disengage the clutch and will not let you shift, the one i just repaired had a bad pressure plate this is a part of the clutch and the clutch needs replacing, the best way to check is to locate the slave cylinder on the trany and watch it as someone presses the clutch pedal to floor the cylinder should push the fork all the way out if it does then the problem is the pressure plate and a clutch replacement is needed, if the fork is not pushed out enough then the problem is in the slave or the master for the slave, here are the parts to help you locte them, as far as the clutch and the plate they are located inside trany housing and cant be seen without pull trany, also make sure the clutch fluid is full, this is located near brake fluid resivor, and it also uses brake fluid,hope this helps.
The clutch may be fine but need adjusting or bleeding (if it's a hydraulic clutch). This can also be caused by a failing throwout bearing, pressure plate, clutch fork, low fluid in a hydraulic clutch or a mechanical linkage that's out of adjustment.
Check for low fluid first because it's an easy solution. If the clutch uses a cable or linkage check the adjustment, it may need tightening.
It's important to address this soon because when you have to force a transmission into gear you're wearing out the synchronizers and you'll miss them when they're gone.
It sounds like the clutch is close to being worn out as the pressure plate is not gripping the clutch plate with sufficient force when power is applied. Before you consider replacing any thing, first check the clutch free travel adjustment because as the clutch plate wears the free travel does decrease and if there is no free travel, then there will be some releasing action on the pressure plate allowing cluth plate slip. Hydraulic setups are usually self adjusting but you should check the free travel of the clutch pedal which should be about 3/8 to 1/2 inch measured at the pedal rubber. This is done by adjusting the push rod that links the pedal arm to the piston in the master cylinder. Adjust by first loosening the locknut on the rod at the end where it attaches to the pedal arm and turning the rod in either direction to obtain the correct free travel. One adjusted retighten locknut.
For a cable setup there should at least 1/8 inch of free travel of the cable before it starts to move the clutch fork on the outside of the bell housing. To adjust, hold the operating fork so that the release bearing is touching the fingers of the pressure plate. You will need to turn the cable adjuster so there is only about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of free travel of the cable where it attaches to throw out fork before it starts to move the fork when the pedal is depressed. If all adjustments are correct and clutch is still slipping then the pressure plate diaphragm spring has lost its tension and /or the clutch plate has worn down to the rivets. Either way you will have to do a complete clutch rebuild.
Sounds like it is a clutch issue. Have the clutch plate checked or check the clutch and friction plates. I know it sounds strange but In reality we always press teh clutch all teh way in to shift. But going from 2nd to third you actually don't have to. Going from 3rd to 4th is even less of a distance. It may be a problem between the clutch and friction plates depending on when you last had them changed and adjusted.
if you mean the clutch doesnt engage until the pedel is nearly all the way out (up) .. then there is an adjustment for that called "free pedel adjustment" .. its usually a 5 min job .. however if there is any clutch chatter or noise then you may need a new clutch plate ... a bigger job ... one way to burn up the clutch plate is to allow it to slip for a long time ... and thats what will happen if the free pedel adjustment isnt done soon ... if your problem is not that then maybe you can expain more ....
as the clutch wears the "free pedal" is reduced ... its easy to adjust "free pedal" and important to do so .. when there is very little or no free movement above where the clutch engages/disengages then the clutch starts to wear rapidly ... if there are no other symptoms like clutch chatter, slipping or noise then the clutch plate likely has some life left if it is adjusted properly and promptly ..
Below is process for removing and replacing the clutch assembly.
Hope this helps, good luck.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the clutch disc and cover assembly
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
If equipped with a cable clutch (1982-84 vehicles), disconnect the cable at the clutch release lever and transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
For 1985-94 vehicles remove the sound insulator from inside the vehicle. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.
Fig. Fig. 2: Disconnect the clutch actuator (slave) cylinder line - 1995-96 vehicles
Remove the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
Mark the pressure plate assembly and the flywheel so that they can be assembled in the same position. They were balanced as an assembly at the factory.
Loosen the attaching bolts one turn at a time until spring tension is relieved.
Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Do not disassemble the pressure plate assembly; replace it if defective.
Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and the clutch fork and pivot shaft assembly for wear. Replace the parts as required. If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating, or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.
Fig. Fig. 3: You must follow the specified sequence when tightening the pressure plate retaining bolts To install:
Clean the pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces thoroughly.
Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position, and support with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool, tool J 29074 or equivalent. The clutch plate is assembled with the damper springs offset toward the transaxle. One side of the factory supplied clutch disc is stamped "Flywheel Side".
Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. Tighten them in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure, as follows:
Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 15-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm) plus an additional 30° turn.
Remove the clutch alignment tool.
Lubricate the outside groove and the inside recess of the release bearing with high temperature grease. Wipe off any excess. Install the release bearing.
Install the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
When adjusting the cruise control switch, do NOT exert an upward force on the clutch pedal pad of more than 20 lbs. (89 N) or damage to the master cylinder pushrod retaining ring may result.
For 1985-94 vehicles, attach the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal and secure with the retaining clip. If equipped with cruise control, check the switch adjustment at the clutch pedal bracket. Install the sound insulator.
If equipped with a cable clutch, attach the clutch cable at the transaxle and clutch release lever. Check the clutch operation by lifting the clutch pedal up to allow the mechanism to adjust the cable length. Depress the pedal slowly a few times to set the pawl into mesh with the quandrant teeth.
All 1982-84 models have a self-adjusting clutch mechanism located on the clutch pedal, eliminating the need for periodic free play adjustments. The self-adjusting mechanism should be inspected periodically as follows:
Depress the clutch pedal and look for the pawl on the self-adjusting mechanism to firmly engage the teeth on the ratchet.
Release the clutch. The pawl should be lifted off of the teeth by the metal stop on the bracket.
On 1985 and later models, the hydraulic clutch system provides automatic clutch adjustment. No adjustment of clutch linkage or pedal position is required.