Question about 2000 Chevrolet Astro

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Engine won't turn

Here's the deal.. I decided to replace the intake manifold gasket myself due to a coolant leak somewhere because my oil was flooded with coolant and poured out the oil drain when I removed the plug. I even experienced what I think was hydrolock because my engine wouldn't crank. See my other posting on this same vehicle. Anyhow, I replaced the intake gasket and reattached most of the controls, hoses, etc on the engine so that I could try cranking the engine again. Nothing turned even when I tried jumping the vehicles battery. So, I removed all 6 spark plugs and tried cranking the engine again and nothing, only the typical clicking of the starter motor. I even tried rotating the engine myself using the front flywheel and a ratchet wrench but nothing moved except the bolt itself as it started to unscrew. (I didn't dare tighten the bolt too much) What could be causing it not to turn? Could some rust have developed inside the bad cylinder due to the water? Shouldn't I get some movement? Is there anything else I can check and/or do?Please help.Darrell

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  • daddda1 Jun 19, 2009

    Yes, I removed the serpentine belt too. Could the starter be bad since it only repeatedly clicks and not engages? I tried jumping it and it still only clicks. The engine freely turned just before I began the intake manifold removal, that's why it's so strange to not turn now. What do you'all think?

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Is the belt off? But if the engine overheated then you may have locked up the engine compleatly, nothing will break it loose.

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

  • 6bta Jun 19, 2009

    Is the belt off? But if the engine overheated then you may have locked up the engine compleatly, nothing will break it loose.

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Beneath the phenolic spacer there is an oil cooler installed between the cylinders inside the block. There is a cover with 2 oil cooler lines that run up from the right side of the engine to the cover and into the cooler via an inlet and outlet banjo bolt. If the cooler wears out there will be an exchange of coolant and oil, more oil into the coolant than coolant into the oil, although there will be some.

You might notice a small drop in performance, and later will notice that the coolant reservoir is full of oil and is spilling over.

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3: 4 new gaskets for the coolant bridge (the almost crescent shape aluminum bridge next to the oil cooler cover, aluminum with hoses attached as well as the coolant temp sensor)
4: New gaskets for the banjo bolts on the coolant bridge, they're rubber but don't just use some junk! Get the real deal ones from the dealer and save yourself the trouble of redoing it later on. They're cheap.
5: Oil, Antifreeze and a new oil filter. I'd spring for the Coolant system cleaner if it's not a big deal, less oil in the cooling system makes for a better performing engine and better heat in the winter.

Tools: 3/8" ratchet, standard set of extensions for the ratchet, set of Torx sockets and inverted Torx sockets, set of 3/8" sockets, flat head screwdriver, dikes or side cutters.

1: take off the intake manifold clamps by prying where they latch together, don't damage them unless you plan on replacing them (your call, but a tech would reuse them)

2: take off all the Torx bolts for the manifolds, there's 4 pieces to the aluminum manifolds and the ECM and Vacuum reservoir have to come off the rear manifold to get to some of the bolts. NOTE the location of all vacuum lines and coolant lines so you don't forget them later. Also note the position of the ECM on the manifold so you don't have to figure out which way it goes on later, it only plugs in one way but it's a pain if you fumble it up.

3: Take out the phenolic spacer (black thing under all the manifolds, feels like plastic). There are rubber gaskets on these, if they're damaged then it's a good time to replace them, if not they are usually reusable. Napa, Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc. always have them. Just ask for intake manifold gaskets, even though they're really phenolic spacer gaskets.

4: Remove the banjo bolts for the oil cooler lines, note the placement of gaskets on each side of the line that the banjo bolt goes through. You'll want to remember that later to avoid a leak. Also remove the coolant bridge banjo bolts and move it out of the way, again noting the gaskets for later replacement.

5: loosen the 2 nuts where the oil cooler lines were, these are attached to the oil cooler and secure it to the cover.

6: Remove the Torx bolts for the cooler cover, lift the cover, and remove the cooler. Make sure you clean that galley out real well, saves you some headache when cleaning later on.

7: When reinstalling the oil cooler cover remember to use a 2mm bead of sealant around there. I've seen guys use Permatex Orange, but if you can swing it then get something better from the dealership. You don't want to do this again in a year if the Permatex leaks on you.

8: Reinstall coolant bridge, oil cooler lines, phenolic spacer, manifold(s) and clamps. Double check all your work! Change your oil, and flush out the cooling system.

Estimated time? For a tech.. probably 2 hours. For a Shadetree mechanic? Probably 4 to 5 hours.

Good luck!

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