Question about 1988 Mitsubishi Pickup

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Low brake vacuum

Loss of brake power reversing with trailer. Pads ok fluid reservoir is full no visible leaks The pedal is a little sponge but had to floor it to stop reversing down hill

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  • Contributor
  • 52 Answers

Probably you have internal vacuum leak, check the pipe from engine to the brake booster, if its ok then the booster will be faulty

Posted on Apr 16, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Abnormal clutch pedal operation

You've replaced the master, the slave, now I would check to see if the throwout fork will move by hand. If you can move the fork by hand I would say that your pressure plate and or throwout bearing are worn out. First try to just gravity bleed the system. If that doesnt work, it may be time for a clutch, pressure plate, and bearing. The pressure plate spring pushes the pedal back up and depending on how many miles and driving habit those little arms on it break off and just wear out. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

  • 3911 Answers

SOURCE: clutch pedal bleeds down over night, no visible

Bad internal seal which does not show externally. Piston is just sliding through the brake fluid instead of pushing it. Car that old most likely worth your while to replace the master and the slave cylinder while you are at it.
Be prepared it may well share a reservoir with the brake system, or you may have to buy a sealed unit and replace the whole master/slave/line at once.

Posted on Apr 06, 2010

emissionwiz
  • 76109 Answers

SOURCE: Fairly smooth at idle and

The very first thing you must have done with a problem like this is have the Powertrain control computer tested for fault codes, it is the main control of the system ans it will record fault codes for whatever is causing this, once the codes are read with a special scanner then a trained technician will decide what needs to be repaired to correct the problem. Guessing is not an option here, the cost of repair is just to high to randomly replace parts with the fault code testing and subsequent diagnosis and testing.

Posted on Feb 23, 2011

  • 2427 Answers

SOURCE: the steering in my '95 mitsi diamante is very

chances are its not the power steering motor at all, Its more than likely the steering rack itself. Normally after a while the seals degraded and tends to leak air and then fluid. More than likely you need to replace the seals or in a bad case the rack itself. Its a bit complexed for a quick fix but your local mechanic should be able to do this for you..

Posted on Mar 21, 2011

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: have to pump the brake

brake master cylinder needs changing. check valve on brake booster must be checked too,.

Posted on Aug 28, 2011

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Check fluid levels in your power steering/brake reservoirs and look for hydraulic fluid leaks in the power steering and brake lines. Could be a bad power steering pump too. Your owners manual should show positions of hydraulic reservoirs.

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Check The Hose Leading To The Brake Booster For A Leak. If Good Check The Check Valve To Make Sure It Working (Sucking In Air) If Good The Brake Booster Needs Replacement.

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When i step on the brake pedal it goes all the way down, what's wrong?


You have air in your brake lines. Try inspecting the system for brake fluid leaks. Replace any worn out brake pads, scored discs, leaking brake piston seals, etc.Now place a clear tube on the bleeder screws, one at a time , and bleed the air out of the system with the help of a friend to push the brake pedal. Start at the rear wheel cylinders and finish with the front calipers. Once the air is out of the lines the pedal should firm back up.

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Mazda e2200 clutch repair: feels like I still have some kind of pedal springback, but without much force. No clutch at all. I assume it is hydraulic, but the only reservoir I see is for the brakes. That is...


Yes, hydraulic--check again--fender side of brake master. Slave is usual cause of leak that eventually causes master reservoir to go dry and start drawing air. Check slave for leak. If leaking, replace slave and bleed system. Make sure to bench-bleed slave before installation by opening bleeder and pouring fluid into line port.

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  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Back off the flare nut on the fluid pipe to free the slave cylinder hose.
  3. Pull off the hose-to-bracket retaining clip and pull the hose from the bracket. Cap the pipe to prevent fluid loss.
  4. Unbolt and remove the slave cylinder.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolt to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).

Dec 04, 2010 | 1988 Mazda B2200

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Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...


Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 15, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

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BRAKE LIGHT ON DASHBOARD ALWAYS ON, ALL BULBS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY..BRAKE LIGHTS, STOP LIGHTS, DIRECTIONAL LIGHTS ETC


Check your brake fluid level in the reservoir; some Toyotas have wheel cylinder sensors; some Toyotas have master cylinder sensors; you also have a sensor on the parking brake and on the brake pedal inside the cab. Check all that.

Feb 14, 2010 | 1993 Toyota Pickup

3 Answers

Break peddle to the floor no resistence behind it, and not stopping well, no noise.


First of all, don't drive with the brakes this way...
Sounds like you've lost the hydraulic pressure in the brake system.
Check the following:
1. Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir to make sure it's full of brake fluid. If not, top it off with the recommend brake fluid.
2. Try the brake pedal again, with the car running in PARK, press a few times and see if the pedal "firms up".
3. If it does, press and hold the brake pedal with the motor still running. Look to see if the pedal slowly sinks to the floor or if it's a bit "mushy" or feels ok.

If the pedal sinks to the floor, you've got a major leak in the brake system. This could be from one of the wheel cylinders, from the disk brake caliper piston, a damage brake hose, brake line, a faulty master cylinder, power brake booster.
The best way to check is a visual inspection. Look around each wheel- look for fluid leaks, for signs of fluid where you park, on the axles, under the hood near the brake fluid reservoir, etc.
If after the fluid is topped off, you get a mushy pedal, I would suggest getting the brakes "bled". Bleeding the brakes simply means getting all the air out of the brake lines. (Air compresses where brake fluid won't- if the pedal is mushy it's got air.)
If you've not done brake work before, I highly recommend taking it to a local mechanic to help you out. You really want to KNOW that your brakes are going to be there when you need them. So if in doubt have a mechanic check it out.

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1 Answer

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The emergency brake light is also the low brake fluid warning light. Check the level in the reservoir. As the brake pads wear the fluid will drop, so if the brake fluid is low, check the pads to make sure the lining material is thick enough. If you have drums in the rear, check the wheel cylinders to make sure they aren't leaking. If everything checks out ok just add a little fluid to the reservoir and that should take care of the light.

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does it still brake when the pedal goes to the floor. my guess is it is leaking fluid out of the rear brake cylinder. the rear brake cylinders are in side the drums so you may not notice a leak there.i would take off both rear wheels and take the drums off and see if there is a leak out of the seal on the brake cylinder. that is a fairly common problem with all drum brakes and the cylinders are only about 12 bucks at napa.

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