I have a 1998 ford tarus thats overheating in i have fix the raditor because it had a leak in it in it steel ran hot so i put a new thermastat in it in its stil running hot in it get hot in about 1 min
There is a lot more to the cooling system than the radiator and thermostat. 97 and 98 taurus' are prone to cooling fan failure. They also have issues with the coolant turning to a rusty colored sludge that can plug the radiator, and it let go long enough can eat the fins off the impeller in the water pump even cause it to break free from the shaft.
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First make sure the cooling system is full. This might require letting it cool and filling it more than once though the main raditor cap. Then it needs looked over for leaks. If it won;t stay full it'll overheat. The hose from the recovery tank to the raditor connection at the cap is a problem spot and it the raditor can't **** the coolant from the tank back into the raditor the engine will soon get low. If these things are alright then you neeed to watch it heat up, and see what's happening. The engine should worm up and as it does the upper raditor hose will warm and but hot but not right away. The side of the raditor should start to warm up soon after that, Touching the raditor it should warm up evenly from top to bottom if it doesn;t it's clogged. If the hose and engine get hot and the pressure inside the hoses rise but the raditor says cool then the therostate is sticking and needs to be changed. If the whole radidor gets hot till everythings too hot and the fan does'nt come on then you need to test the fan and it's fuses and connections. The cooling fan will be comanded on if you unplug the coolant temperture senser that's pluged into the side of the therosate hoseing as it's where the upper hose connects to the engine. If the fan seems to be coming on and hot air is coming off the back of the fan and it's still getting too hot and you've decided that the whole radidor is getting evenly hot then the engine may have an issue. Exhaust clogged up ( cat canvertor, muffer bent pipes) The check engine light might be on and the reasons it's on need to be examinded.
When you said you replaced all the cooling system parts, you mean the raditor, the hoses, the water pump,the therostate, the raditor fan and it's relays and sensers. If you've done all of this and you correctly purged all the air out of the system then The engine can be making too much heat another way. The coolant temperture senser can say that the engine is cooler than it really is ( makes a rich mixture, to warm the engine) The therostate may be installed unside down or is open all the time or is missing. ( the therostate needs to make the car get up to 200degrees F or the raditior may not get hot enough to remove enough haet to cool the engine. ( hot is good too hot or too cold is bad). Let's say all the cooling system work is good and you did'nt mix more than one kind of antifrezze ( they jel up and not cool.) The exhaust can be stopped up ( causes low performance too) Take out the oxagen senser and connect a pressure gauge ( leave the snser plugged in and grounded) If the pressure goes any higher than 5 Lbs. reving it or anytime then you looking for a clog. A good system revved up and heald staedy should show a vacume. The timing can be wrong ( low performance too) The timing chain can skip time and the measureed compression will be lower that 150 LBS. With the chain skipped the ingtion timing will be slow and that will cause overheating all by it'self. The engine may need an oil change, Gas in the oil from short trips and running too cold sometime. Overheating will rurine the mototr oil and it being bad will make the engine heat. The engine turning hard ( turning the engine by hand you should feel 3 compression shrocks per turn and it should turn easy except as it pressureizes each cyclinder, ( they should all feel the same) the oil should look clear and black, not brown. If it's some other color, coolant may be getting in the oil, The exhaust should'nt smell sweet ( antifreeze leaking into the combustion ) with the car running and the cooling system full with the cap off it shouldn't bubble or steam come out ( it tells their is a leak in the engine to the coolant and it'll blow bubbles in the coolant and the hot exhaust will heat the coolant more than the raditor will remove. It certainly should'nt bubble at all started cold and full.
If you're running it without a thermostat it's clear there isn't enough/any coolant circulating through the block. When the motor is running are the hoses off the radiator soft and flexible or stiff. If they're soft there's no coolant flowing through them. Chances are the radiator core is bad or there is a crack in it somewhere. Have it removed and tested.
You have an air lock in the cooling system.
Do this: pull upper radiator hose off the radiator leaving it connected to the block, pour coolant into hose until filled ( you might have to do it to the radiator also). Once filled reconnected hose back to the radiator, then fill resevior to proper level. Start car turn heater on full. Let car run with cap off resevior until it starts pulling coolant in. Once warmed up shut car off let cool. Check fluid level again.
Cut it off on the good side that you can get at on steel side....then run new rubber trans line (specific trans line made for pressure)from that spot to raditor....may need to cut steel on both sides to make it work....keep rubber from exaust and always double clamp all fittings....good luck...lee