Question about 2003 Land Rover Discovery

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Vibration while Driving

I have a vibration while I drive, I already had the wheels rebalanced so thats out of the question. It's not so bad while at lower speeds but once you get on the freeway you can really feel it. I looked underneath and wiggled the drivelines and they seemed fine and I also tapped the gas while driving and I don't hear a clanking sound.

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  • Contributor
  • 52 Answers

If there is vibration on the steering when you braking then there is problem with brake discs they could be overheated and not straight. If there is a vibration on your steering wheel on slower speeds then it can be tyre damage or rim

Posted on Apr 16, 2014

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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CivicSI990
  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: when pushing down on the gas in 3rd 4th and 5th gear has a small

Valves need adjusting and/or oil in the engine

With such limited information i can almost put my thumb on it being the valves - they are compressed using special tools, aka - leave it to the pros and save yourself a headache!

(In 1rst and 2nd the engine rpm is low, in 4th and 5th it is much higher making the knock more noticeable)

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

  • 136 Answers

SOURCE: Freelander Deisel,constant vibration,shudder.

remove drive shaft and all vcu components, take for a short drive ( car will still drive in 2 wheel mode, if vibration gone suspect could be vcu , if still felt at front suspect ird if still felt in rear check diff mounts then diff out put bearings and nose end play.

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

  • 275 Answers

SOURCE: vibration

Really , you should take the car to a Land rover dealer, to check everything, but you can get underneath the car with a bar or tyre lever and check all the bushes. Most likely it will be the panhard rod bushes are worn.
There are many bushes in the suspension and there should be minimal play in any of them. Changing bushes is not so easy either.
Hope this helps

Posted on Nov 30, 2009

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: vibration in the front of

Check the wheels first; lift one side of the vehicle and place your hand son the tire (3 and 9 o'clock) and wiggle it. If it moves than your bearings are bad or loose. If you place your hands on 12 and 6 o'clock and the tire moves a bit then it's your swivel preload (might have to remove a shim).

Check your driveshafts for worn u-joints and your bushings.

Drive line vibration from 30 to 40 mph under moderate to light load conditions usually comes from the front axle assembly. The source can be confirmed by removing the front driveshaft and seeing if the vibration goes away.

The official fix is a replacement right hand engine mounting and replacement harmonic damper rubber mount which were improved to minimize this vibration. The updated mounts were fitted to all Range Rovers starting with number LH 652714.

This should keep you busy for a while. Land Rover/Range Rover Service Bulletin 8/86

51/54 VIBRATION DIAGNOSIS
The following is intended as an aid for the diagnosis and solution of vibration problems on 1986 model year Range Rovers. When investigating complaints of vibration in the vehicle, it is important that the vehicle is assessed in a logical manner, so that, by a process of elimination, it is possible to determine the exact source of the problem. Therefore the first part of this bulletin gives a step by step sequence for the diagnosis of vibration sources and their elimination. Before initiating any investigation, however, check the vehicle to ensure that the cause is not due to an obviously simple fault. For example: check that all engine and gearbox mountings are of the correct specification and are correctly fitted; check that all exhaust mountings are correctly fitted, in particular check that there is no metal to metal contact between the mountings and the body; check the torque of the propshaft drive flange bolts, the universal joints for excessive play and transfer box and differential bearings for excessive wear.

If your initial investigations do not identify a problem it will be necessary to carry out the following procedure, which will involve some testing of the vehicle.

NOTE
Should it be found at the outset that several vibrations are evident at different road or engine speeds, each must be treated individually. It is highly unlikely that the vibrations will be due to the same problem and therefore each will require a separate cure.

Similarly, if a vehicle is found to be suffering from a particularly harsh vibration, it may not be possible to detect other, less noticeable vibrations which may exist. However, once the primary vibration has been eliminated, the secondary vibration, which again will only be evident at different road or engine speeds, will then become prominent. Again each vibration must be treated separately, allowing the causes to be isolated and the necessary remedial action taken.

RANGE ROVER VIBRATION DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE
1. Road test the vehicle. Does the problem always occur at the same road speed irrespective of the gear selected? (SEE NOTE A).
YES: CHECK 2.
NO: Confirm that the problem occurs at the same engine RPM in all gears. CHECK 21.
2. Does the problem occur at 30-50 mph (48-80 km/hr) in all the available gears?
YES: Check that the front propshaft is correctly phased. The rear yoke must lead the front yoke by two splines. Fit correctly if necessary and re-test. If problem persists CHECK 3.
NO: CHECK 9.
3. Mark the drive flange and remove the front propshaft, engage the diff lock and re-test. Has the vibration been eliminated?
YES: CHECK 4.
NO: Check balance of front and rear wheel and tyre assemblies, using ON-CAR balancing equipment. Check that tyres have even wear characteristics with no evidence of flat spots. If wheels and tyres OK Check 19.
4. Check drive flanges (front output drive flange and front differential pinion flange) for eccentricity and run-out. (SEE NOTE B). Do the flanges conform to the tolerances?
YES: CHECK 7.
NO: CHECK 5.
5. Replace the flange(s). Recheck the eccentricity and run-out. Does the flange(s) conform to tolerances?
YES: CHECK 6.
NO: Fit 2nd replacement flange. Recheck eccentricity and run-out. If tolerances are still incorrect, the differential unit (or alternatively the transfer box) is suspect and should be checked separately. If tolerances correct CHECK 6.
6. Re-test the vehicle with the front propshaft fitted. Is problem still evident?
YES: CHECK 7.
NO: ------.
7. Substitute a replacement propshaft from a donor vehicle and Re-test. Is the problem still evident?
YES: CHECK 8.
NO: Replace propshaft with new unit (or leave on donor unit).
8. Fit the vibration damper assembly to the front axle, (see Attachment 1). (The attachment contains some figures. For further information, please contact Internet E-mail address: bjjen13b@telepost.no . Refit the front propshaft and road test. Is the problem still evident?
YES: Repeat diagnosis.
NO: ------.
9. Does the problem occur at 80-80 mph (112-129 kph) in ALL the available gears?
YES: Check that the rear propshaft is correctly fitted. The front and rear yokes must be IN LINE. There should be no phase difference. Realign if necessary and re-test. If problem persists, check ALL wheel and tyre assemblies for balance. If problem still evident CHECK 10.
NO: CHECK 19.
10. Mark the drive flanges and remove the rear propshaft. Secure the transmission brake drum with the propshaft flange nuts. With the differential lock engaged, re-test the vehicle. Is the problem still evident?
YES: CHECK 11.
NO: CHECK 15.
11. Remove the transmission brake drum and re-test. Is the problem still evident?
YES: Cause of problem is unknown. Re-check diagnostic procedure.
NO: CHECK 12.
12. Check the rear output flange on the transfer box, where the DRUM SITS, for eccentricity and run-out (See NOTE B). Does the flange conform to the tolerances?
YES: The handbrake drum is suspect and must be replaced with a known good component. Then CHECK 15.
NO: CHECK 13.
13. Replace the output flange and recheck the eccentricity and run-out. Does the flange conform to the tolerances?
YES: CHECK 14.
NO: Fit 2nd replacement output flange. Recheck eccentricity and run-out. If tolerances still incorrect, transfer box is suspect, and should be checked separately. If tolerances correct CHECK 14.
14. Refit the original handbrake drum and secure to flange with propshaft nuts. Re-test the vehicle without the propshaft fitted. Is problem still evident?
YES: The handbrake drum is suspect and must be replaced with a known good component. Then CHECK 15.
NO: CHECK 15.
15. Check the rear differential pinion flange for eccentricity and run-out. (See NOTE B). Does the flange conform to the tolerances?
YES: CHECK 17.
NO: CHECK 16.
16. Replace the flange. Recheck the eccentricity and run-out. Does the flange conform to the tolerances?
YES: CHECK 17.
NO: Fit 2nd replacement flange. Recheck eccentricity and run-out. If tolerances are still incorrect, the differential unit is suspect, and should be checked separately. If tolerances correct CHECK 17.
17. Re-test vehicle with rear propshaft fitted. Is problem still evident?
YES: CHECK 18.
NO: ------.
18. Substitute a replacement propshaft from donor vehicle and re-test. Is the problem still evident?
YES: CHECK 20.
NO: Cause of problem is unknown. Recheck fault diagnosis procedure.
19. If the vehicle has a manual gearbox, does the problem occur at 30-50 mph (48-80 kph) in all the available gears except 4th gear.
YES: CHECK 20.
NO: Cause of problem is unknown. Recheck fault diagnosis procedure.
20. Disconnect the front propshaft. Re-test with the differential lock engaged. Is the vibration still evident or is it worse?
YES: If this is confirmed, main gearbox is suspect, and should be investigated separately.
NO: RE-CHECK 2.
21. Are the correct engine mountings fitted? Current production usage:- Part no 566222 (colour coded yellow spot) for front engine mountings. Part No NRC 9154 (colour coded white spot) for rear engine mountings. (See also Service Bulletin 11A/85, Item 1).
YES: CHECK 22.
NO: Fit new engine mountings and re-test. If problem persists CHECK 22.
22. Remove the water pump drive belt. Test the vehicle statically by revving the engine in neutral. In order to avoid any overheating of the engine, DO NOT prolong the test. Does the problem remain?
YES: CHECK 24.
NO: CHECK 23.
23. Replace the fan and viscous drive unit, by substitution with known components from a donor vehicle. Refit the drive belt. Re-test the vehicle statically. Is the problem still evident?
YES: Replace water pump.
NO: ------.
24. Replace the electronic control unit by substitution with a known unit from a donor vehicle. Does the problem still exist?
YES: Cause of problem is unknown. Recheck fault diagnosis. If the vehicle is an automatic, check torque converter balance (see Attachment 2). (The attachment contains some figures.)
NO: ------.

Hope helps.

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

electricdime
  • 434 Answers

SOURCE: I feel vibration in the steering wheel of my 2007

Check you motor mounts to see if the are bad. Rubber bushings that attach the mother to the frame. Sometimes these break and will cause the motor to shake.

Posted on Dec 05, 2010

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