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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
ok then here is the procedure
1 take off the axle nut
2 on the lower control arm you will find a large nut and bolt i belive the nut is a 21mm and the bolt side is an 18mm. this bolt is the one at the knuckle near the brakes. remove it
3 you will need to pull the knuckle out of the way or a helper to pull the knuckle out of the way so you can slip the axle out of the knuckle.( its a tight fit but there is room to slip it out.)
4 use a pry bar to pop the axle free of the diff. hosing its held in by a spring clip make sure the clip comes out with the axle if it gets stuck inside you will have to fish it out.
5 use a pry bar or screwdriver to pry seal out of housing then use a flat object that contacts the entire rim of the new seal so it can evenly be installed with out getting smashed and tap it in with a hammer. ( a good trick here is to use some grease and pack it into the new seal where the spring is this will prevent the spring from being shocked out of the seal during instalation . the spring keeps tension on the rubber in the seal so it stays tight to the shaft it is sealing.)
6 then revers the above steps. also make sure you are using the right gear lube it will most likely be 75w-140 but make sure you check your owners manual will tell you if it doesnt say on the diff cover. you can cause a lot of damage if you put in the wrong thing. and make sure you feel the axle spring clip snap into place.
as a note there are two types of axle seals that are used on these so if the new seal looks different than the old seal then the folliowing will be important to you.the seals on these have been redesigned so if you axle has what looks like a cup or dust cover pressed onto the shaft where it goes into the diff the new style does not use this and it will prevent the axle form going in all the way so the spring clip will not lock in and you will have a leak. so you will have to remove it and install the axle without it.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
you must remove brakes, then remove axle nut, then remove upper control arm and finally tie rod stabilizer, remove axle from car then bearing can be accessed. this is a difficult job that requires special tools so be careful
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
It will be about $200-280 at the dealer, they know all about this problem on the Sequoia.
If you want to do it yourself, it will take about 1.5 hours and some patience.
Depending on the level of corrosion in the back of your window area, the part number you need to order is the handle assy rear door. If you have a big problem, you may need the cable also:
toyotapartscheap.com (Mossey Toyota)
1. Lock sub Assy - 69301 0C010 (($99)
2. Handle Assy Rear Door - 69090 08010 ($70)
3. Cable - 64680 0C010 ($24) .
The design is the same from 01-05 and is common to break after time. A poor design on an otherwise excellent truck.
If you want to DIY - visit Tundra Solutions.com and read up on the problem:
First, take off the license plate.
Since the hatch wouldn't open, I started from the inside and took down the top trim piece. After that the two side pieces come down, then the main trim piece which covers the bulk of the door comes out. These are all popped in with the white tabs.
There are 3 access hole covers to pop out (don't forget to install them back in when done) and through the left hole you can see the mechanism to unlatch, press it down with a screwdriver and open the door. If anytime you close the door you will have to do this to unlatch, up until you disconnect the cable and pull out the handle, then you have to locate the cable and pull that directly.
Behind the large trim piece you will find a metal access cover, remove the 7 or 8 10mm bolts holding that on and pop the 3 white tabs and let it hang off to the side. Disconnect the cable from the handle assembly by reaching in from the right hand side and popping of the cable from the handle assembly.
From the left and right access holes, locate the two 10mm nuts which hold the license plate assembly to the door and remove them. Then there are 4 plastic tabs that come in from the outside that hold the license plate assembly on in each corner, try and locate those and using some pliers squeeze them together and push it through. Next locate the license plate lamps wire connector and release that from the left side, it’s the simple push in and pull out square white connector.
After these are out, put back in 1 or 2 bolts into the large metal access cover so the hatch can be lowered (don’t close it).
Here is where I had fun, begin to pop out the assembly that it was bolted to. I ended up breaking 3 of the 4 plastic tabs in each corner because I did not use pliers from the other side to pull them out, however it remained somewhat useable (hindsight 20/20).
Now the license plate assembly can be taken to a bench to replace the handle assembly (Toyota doesn't sell just the handle, it is a small assembly). Two screws out and the assembly is replaced.
Before pressing the license plate assembly back onto the truck, make certain all the plastic tabs are in the assembly and not in the truck. Reverse the process to re-install.
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
SOURCE: Replace fuel filter
1. Open the hood and access the relay panel on the Right side of the engine bay
2. Open the fuel cap
3. Start the engine
4. Pull the relay for the fuel pump (listed on the bottom side of the relay panel lid)
5. Wait for engine to stop
6. Turn key off
7. Disconnect negative battery cable
8. **** wheels to car
9. Slide under the driver's side around the B pillar area
9. Look on the interior side of the frame rail and you will find the filter assembly
10. Place a drain pan under filter
11. Disconnect the rigid fuel line with a 14mm opne wrench (I think)
12. Disconnect the quick coupling on the aft part of the assembly buy lifting up on the red plastic pience and turning
13. Unbolt the center bolt and pull out the filter
14. Pop in the new filter and reverse order.
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
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