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Motor starts fine runs for five minutes then dies starts back up back up fine but no throttle response after thatfine.

Choke operates properly. Idles down. Throttle response good then dies. All from cold start. Then starts fine warm but no power no throttle. When it dies its abrupt it doesnt sputter out.

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If there is electronic throttle then probably needs replacement, get second hand one , or otherwise can try to take it out and clean it, if there is an access to electronic part of it try it open carefully and clean contacts with some alcohol, sometimes it helps

Posted on Apr 16, 2014


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Stalls when engne warms up

Your ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor is bad. What's happening is at cold start it richens up the fuel mixture and as it warms up the ECM thinks it's still cold and essentially the "choke" is still on. Also check your coolant level. If you don't have enough coolant in you engine/radiator, the ECT doesn't know what to do so it thinks it's cold.

Posted on Jul 13, 2008

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SOURCE: 5.3 chevy hesitates when cold runs fine after warming up

I have same problem, Chevy told me it was probably a seal affecting fuel air ratio and when warm seal expanded to stop air leak. I forget which seal but they also said to check plastic case around seal because it will warp and may also need to be replaced. It was located near top center of engine. Please let me know if you figure it out.

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

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2005 ford five hundred replaced battery went into engine failsafe mode n will only idle no throttle response I replaced throttle body assembly just sits and idles

try using the scan tool to reset the ECM program
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Sounds like the automatic choke is not functioning properly. Take off the air cleaner before starting on a cold day. Looking into the carburetor, the round choke plate should be nearly closed. If not, check the linkage to see if it is disconnected or hanging up on something. If it is OK, look down the carburetor with the chock plate held open, operate the throttle linkage and see it it shoots a stream of raw gas down the carburetor. If not, the accelerator pump will need to be replaced. That stream of gas aids in starting when cold and in acceleration (as opposed to a gas in mist form that it idles and runs on). An accelerator pump is included in a Carburetor kit and usually looks like a round flat rubber diaphragm.

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your choke Is stuck on the Injector/carborater. when you press the gas It Is lettIng to much aIr In. check the cable on Injectors or If It Is carb get some carb cleaner from your local automotIve retaIler and take the breather off and spray carb. also check around It to kake sure the cable Is.not streatched nor caught.

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Replaced egr valve pressure sensor upstream and downstream oxygens sensors egr tube new egr valve new idle air control valve runs fine and idles fine one minute then starts idleing rough and dies starts...

r u gonna keep replacin parts-or do a scan 1st--not all problems show on a readout-like vacuum leaks or a failin computer--throttle body probly needs cleanin

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The engine sputters and dies when it heats up. Is this Vapor lock? On cold start it works great and idles just fine but as it heats, the engine starts choking and soon dies out. If this is vapor lock, how...

sounds like the reason it starts and idles fine at start up is your choke is functioning... as your vehicle warms up.. the choke starts to kick off... Inspect your throttle body and idle control motor.

Aug 05, 2010 | 1986 Ford Bronco II

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It's the choke doing tis job. It reduces the amount of air to the engine to help it start/warm up. As the engine reaches a good operating temp it will drop the RPM's. Some times they do get stuck, so some cleaner wouldn't hurt. Spray it into the throttle body while the engine is running. Also the O2 sensor could be bad.

Apr 12, 2010 | 2001 Suzuki Xl 7

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Sometimes to start you have to give it a lot of

This sounds like a cold start system fault, which is a number of things.
  1. Cold start temperature sensor not operating correctly so the cold start system won't work when the engine is cold.
  2. The idle needs to be set to the correct RPM of the engine when warm, if it is idling ok when it is warm then this wont be the problem.
  3. Spark Plugs are worn and need replacing.
Most case's its the cold start system not operating correctly and if you have a good workshop to take it too they should pick this up quite quickly. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.

Apr 03, 2010 | 1996 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Hard starting and ideling sometimes. Runs down the road fine. 2001 Ford Expolrer.

hopefully you fixed it. Ive had the same problem with major shaking and flooding in morning cold starts. After all said and done it was cleaning inside throttle body and butterfly with starter fluid and cotton rag. I also sandpapered clean inside. Then another part at top of intaker manifold, after removing four screws on motor cover, the part has a electrical cannector. Remove two screws, electrical connection. Take part and view that it has a spring valve that plunges from signals thru electrical connection. This is equivALENT OF CHOKE. mINE WAS GUMMED UP BLACK. i CLEANED AND WITH BYCYCLE CHAIN OIL FREED IT UP., CAR STARTS AND IDLES PERFECT AND IS VERY RESPONSIVE. GOOD LUCK

Mar 09, 2010 | 2001 Ford Explorer

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