Question about 1996 Honda Accord
This has become an increasingly common problem with late models. There is a VERY specific drive cycle that must occur before certain monitors will run. It varies from system to system usually. Usually starts with a cold engine start-up, then very specific accel, and cruise parameters, followed by a closed throttle decel, from highway speed without using brakes. Until these specifics are met, the monitors will remain incomplete.
Posted on Jun 10, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1991 Prelude SI Not Starting
First, fully charged battery should show 12.6, but this is not the problem. According to your notes, the power gets to your starter, but the contact ring in it is not closing the power circuit. The problem can be the solenoid (not likely, as there is a 1.5v drop of voltage that tells me that most likely it pulls in) or the starter motor itself. To make sure it is the starter, use the jumper cables and apply power directly to the starter (make sure you are in the neutral and the handbrake is on). If it will not clink, then it is the solenoid, if it does clink, but do not turn, then the contact ring or the motor has to be replaced.
As a general rule, the best thing (after you determined that the problem is in the starter) is to replace the starter with a new one, or to save money, remove it and rebuild it at the shop.
Posted on Dec 15, 2008
Yes you could have an ECU problem but there are a number of tests that need to be done. I have found in a couple of the accords to be an open wire. Below is a picture of the connector at the alternator. Unplug it and turn the key to the on position (make sure your battery is fully charged) check the number 1 position of the plug. There should be battery voltage there. If there isn't you need to locate the open black & yellow wire. That wire should go directly to the fuse box inside the vehicle. This has happened a couple of times in my shop. You could have other problems but would try this first. If all is well with this tests feel free to email me at email@example.com with all your information and I will be happy to give you some other tests to perform in order to narrow down the problem. No there wouldn't be a charge for my help, don't mind helping when I can. As long as you can kinda follow and locate wires/connectors and have a digital volt/ohm meter (and know how to use it) I think narrowing down the problem will be fairly easy. On this picture I am going by that you have the most common engine (4 cylinder 2.3) If you have the DV or LX model with the V6 3.0 liter engine there may be a difference so this test might not be correct. Was just going with the common engine. Hope this helps......
Posted on May 21, 2012
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