Question about 1996 Honda Accord

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After over 600 miles of driving I still have 4 monitors that are not ready. Has anyone else every had this happen? I've had no codes, no dead battery and have checked all the fuses so there is no reason for this to be going on. The only thing I can think of at this point is the ecu is no good for whatever reason. Any help would be appreciated

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This has become an increasingly common problem with late models. There is a VERY specific drive cycle that must occur before certain monitors will run. It varies from system to system usually. Usually starts with a cold engine start-up, then very specific accel, and cruise parameters, followed by a closed throttle decel, from highway speed without using brakes. Until these specifics are met, the monitors will remain incomplete.

Posted on Jun 10, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1991 Prelude SI Not Starting

First, fully charged battery should show 12.6, but this is not the problem. According to your notes, the power gets to your starter, but the contact ring in it is not closing the power circuit. The problem can be the solenoid (not likely, as there is a 1.5v drop of voltage that tells me that most likely it pulls in) or the starter motor itself. To make sure it is the starter, use the jumper cables and apply power directly to the starter (make sure you are in the neutral and the handbrake is on). If it will not clink, then it is the solenoid, if it does clink, but do not turn, then the contact ring or the motor has to be replaced.
As a general rule, the best thing (after you determined that the problem is in the starter) is to replace the starter with a new one, or to save money, remove it and rebuild it at the shop.

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SOURCE: 1998 honda check engine light wont go off

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clifford224
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SOURCE: 1999 Honda Accord New battery Alternator checked at Auto Zone and Advance auto put alternator back on car still batery still goes dead in about 30 miles

Yes you could have an ECU problem but there are a number of tests that need to be done. I have found in a couple of the accords to be an open wire. Below is a picture of the connector at the alternator. Unplug it and turn the key to the on position (make sure your battery is fully charged) check the number 1 position of the plug. There should be battery voltage there. If there isn't you need to locate the open black & yellow wire. That wire should go directly to the fuse box inside the vehicle. This has happened a couple of times in my shop. You could have other problems but would try this first. If all is well with this tests feel free to email me at csautomotivecars@att.net with all your information and I will be happy to give you some other tests to perform in order to narrow down the problem. No there wouldn't be a charge for my help, don't mind helping when I can. As long as you can kinda follow and locate wires/connectors and have a digital volt/ohm meter (and know how to use it) I think narrowing down the problem will be fairly easy. On this picture I am going by that you have the most common engine (4 cylinder 2.3) If you have the DV or LX model with the V6 3.0 liter engine there may be a difference so this test might not be correct. Was just going with the common engine. Hope this helps......

Posted on May 21, 2012

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I have a 2002 honda accord 4 cyl. that is reading on obd2 7 monitors ready ,1 inc egr , can anyone ell me what this means if it is not ready.


Whenever power is completely removed from a vehicle (disconnect the battery), active trouble codes are erased and all system monitors are reset. This is primarily to prevent 'turning off' the check engine light just before emissions inspection. Most states require that all monitors (or a specific number of them) be in a 'ready' status.
For the monitors to 'pass' checks and attain a 'ready' status, specific conditions must be met, usually involving 'drive cycles'. Some system monitors will reset very quickly - one drive cycle or less. Some take longer - more drive cycles or other conditions (usually the evaporative emission cycle requires fuel be between 1/4 and 3/4 of a tank of fuel).
If your car recently had the battery disconnected or replaced, you may have to drive it a few more times to get all monitors into a 'ready' status. If the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) monitor does not reset, check with a dealer or a good garage on what parameters must be met to reset this monitor.

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My Toyota EVAP readiness state will not cycle in cold weather and takes thousands of miles before it gets to readiness state.
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so what are you doing there.
using a scan tool?
my guess, only because you said READ.
this is the scan tolls , display of readiness monitors.

what that means is:"
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Do you have a service engine light on or does the smog station tell you that the monitors are set?
A drive cycle won't clear a service engine light if the reason for it was not fixed. Normally a drive cycle or a 25 or so mile drive will be enough for the PCM to run through its test, and if all is well, clear the monitors.
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