Question about 1988 Lincoln Mark VII

3 Answers

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER LOST IT POWER ON 88 LSC

RESERVOIR IS FILLING IT'S SELF LOOKS DARKER AS WELL BOOTH ANTI-LOOK &BRAKE WARNING LIGHT'S ON

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  • leonardsplac Jun 19, 2009

    RESERVOIR WAS FULL .IT IS NOW HALF INCH OVER THE FULL MARK.I STILL HAVE BRAKES THERE JUST NOT POWER

  • leonardsplac Jun 21, 2009

    I THINK THE POWERSTEERING FLUID IS GETTING IN TO THE BRAKEFLUID

  • leonardsplac Jun 22, 2009

    I WILL INVESTIGATE FURTHER. SOUNDS TO ME WE ARE ON THE RIGHT TRACK. WHERE COULD I GET A DIAGRAM OF THE POWER BRAKE SYSTEM

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  • 10,515 Answers

Hi,


This is sometimes a "MAJOR" concern on Lincoln Cars.There is an article which is as follows :-

Component Service Brakes, Hydraulic:Power Assist:Hydraulic
Consequence of Defect under certain conditions, contacts in brake system relay could remain closed, causing the brake pump motor to run continuously, causing it to overheat and eventually fail. consequence of defect: should the brake supply motor fail, the power assist to the front brakes will be lost, and after about 10 to 15 normal brake stops, loss of rear brake function will result, causing increased stopping distance. however, the instrument brake warning light will illuminate prior to reduced braking capability and if warning is not heeded, an accident may occur.
Corrective Action Recall Notes replace pump motor relays.

Also,

There is a possibility of the steering fluid being leaked. However, that's not a rare scenario.

Check and let me know.

Thanks.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

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  • Expert
  • 60 Answers

Sounds like the pressure switch is going bad to me, it is located on the lower left side of the motor assy. and it's a real pain to get out. IF you have to bleed the brakes you have a leak somewhere.

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

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  • Master
  • 355 Answers

Make sure the reservoir has fluid. A 1/4" drive ratchet and correct metric socket work good on the bleeder. When bleeding, never press the peddle more than 1/2 way down. When you go all the way down the master cylinder seals travel into territory with tarnish buildup. If you do/have you will probably be needing a master cylinder soon. Antilock brakes complicate bleeding sometimes. Just filling the reservoir and letting it set with the bleeder open allows the fluid to gravity down. Also, screw the bleeder clear out, maybe the hole in it is plugged.

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

  • Rohit  Asthana
    Rohit Asthana Jun 19, 2009

    Is your fluid level in the master cylinder correct?


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power steering is at the front of the engine and runs on the belt. The reservoir cap looks like this:
73b4b95.jpg To top off steering fluid, use standard steering fluid.

The reservoir in front of the brake booster is the brake master cylinder reservoir. To refill, use standard brake fluid. If it the truck is using brake fluid, check for leaks at the back of the master cylinder and at all wheels.

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1997 oldsmobile 88 brakes taking more pressure to engage. was sitting at a light gently pressing on the pedal when they apparently lost pressure. brakes still work but have to press almost all the way to...


I don't think that is an 'emergency brake light' but a warning light referring to the problem you are having. If it was only a low fluid level warning, this wouldn't normally affect braking as it has so either the master cylinder has failed or the vacuum brake power booster.
Try (in a safe area) pumping you pedal and note if it rises somewhat. If it does, either master or slave cylinder has blown a seal or the seals are simply worn.
To check the brake booster, with the engine off, press on the brake pedal BEFORE starting and note whether it sinks a bit one the engine has started. If it does, the booster is likely OK.
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Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...


Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

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1 Answer

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Anti-Lock Control —Vehicles Built After 03/2002 The 3-channel anti-lock brake system consists of the following components:
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  • hydraulic control unit (HCU)
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The 4-channel anti-lock brake system with traction control and stability assist system consists of the following components:
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  • traction control switch
---------------------------------------------------------------------
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I would unplug it and see what happens. The connector should have a small tab to depress so you can pull the connector out.
Here is where it is:

Accelerometer Removal and Installation
  1. NOTE: The accelerometer is located under the center, rear passenger seat carpet. (I think you have to remove seat for access).
    Cut the carpeting along the perforations.
  1. Disconnect the electrical connector.
  1. Remove the nuts and remove the accelerometer.
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Have dealer hook up tester and pull fault codes if you can't find an easy solution.
Some background info
  • A malfunction in the anti-lock brake system will cause the anti-lock brake control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power-assisted braking remains.
  • Malfunctions are indicated by the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster.
  • The anti-lock brake system is self-monitoring. When the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, the anti-lock brake control module will carry out a preliminary self-check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a three-second illumination of the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster.
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  • Each time the vehicle is driven, as soon as vehicle speed reaches approximately 20 km/h (12mph), the anti-lock brake control module turns on the pump motor for approximately one-half second. At this time, a mechanical noise may be heard. This is a normal function of the self-check by the anti-lock brake control module.
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    The anti-lock brake system (ABS) uses the yellow ABS warning indicator to alert the driver of a malfunctions in the ABS.
    The yellow ABS warning indicator will come on to warn the driver that the ABS has been turned off due to a symptom that exists in the ABS. Normal power assist braking remains but wheels can lock during a panic stop while the yellow ABS warning indicator is illuminated.

    -----------------------------------------
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