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Make sure if you have a fluid lvl sensor on the master cylinder, that it is plugged in. Also, if the old master cylinder had a lvl sensor, make sure your new one is equipped with one. If you do not have a lvl sensor, then it would be a pressure switch. Make sure it is plugged in properly. Does the vehicle have good firm brake pedal when it is running and the booster is assisting? If not, then you probably still have air in the system somewhere. Remember when bleeding brakes, start with the furthest wheel from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest.....Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front in most cases.
Brake pads,calipers,rotors,brake shoes,brake drums,wheel cylinders,and a master cylinder. Cheapest place would probably be e-bay. And go ahead and buy a service manual,or download one onto your computer from a site like tradebit.
you must have a lot of air in system. the brakes need bleed to let the air out of system. did you bench bleed the master cylinder before putting it on car ! if not thats why no brakes. to bench bleed a new master cylinder, put it in a vise. fill it full or the proper level of brake fluid. push on the plunger with a dowel or another object. pump it till all air is out of master cylinder, you can tell when no air. it will be all fluid coming out of cylinder. keep checking brake fluid in master cylinder.make sure you push plunger in all the way.when all air is gone replace on car. if you do not loose any fluid from the master cylinder lines, then you can replace it without having air in system. bleed each wheel if needed. good-day!
Try opening the bleeders and don't pump the pedal,just let gravity flow out the fluid,(master cyl.cap off)keeps the air from being churned into foam. Also try appling the E-brake and see if the pedal feels better,if it does it's just the rear being out of adjustment
First thing you need to do is bench bleed the new master cylinder.new master should have come with 2 plastic tubes and fittings.screw fittings into new master,fix tubes to fittings other end in to top of master where fluid goes.fill with fluid make sure the tubes are submergered in brake fluid for entire process.take a screwdriver and press plunger in rear of master.use short slow strokes to start you will see air bubbles in resovoir.slowly increase length of stoke watchin resovoir till no mome bubbles.now ready to install.Remove failed master,(loosen lines befofe removing mounting bolts)remove lines last.reinstall new master then remove bleeding tubes last install and tighten lines.Fill fluid replace lid,have a helper sit in car,loosen lines about half a turn.Have helper depress brake pedal slowly and hold down pedal untill lines tightened.when tight release pedal and repeat 5/6 times.fluid should come out of lines without any air when bled propperly.if failed master did not run out of fluid uyou should be finished.if pedal still soft/mushy will have to bleed a wheels also.use same proceedure but openening bleed screws not lines.may take many times to get rid of all air,you can see and hear the air exiting bleeders.keep an eye on fluid level while bleeding if u run out you are starting again
The master cylinder should have been bled before installing it. The fittings and a small section of rubber hose should have came with it. If you have these fittings, you can still bleed it without removing the castercylinder. Install the fittings where brake lines come out and run the rubber hose into the "full" master cylinder and have someone pump the brakes slowly until all the air bubbles disappear. Reattach brake lines and the master cylinder should be all set. You will probably have to bleed brakes at each wheel
are you talking about the brake master cylinder, leaking fluid down the fire wall in front of the drivers position? if so ,it is probably running down the inside under the carpet as well.. no matter where its from brake leaks need fixing straight away. it is probably the brake master cyl. that is leaking and it is not a big job to replace it "YOUDOIT"