Jeep just shuts off and also seems like it has loss of power.
I have a 1994 Jeep Grand that just shuts of when driving or idleing. It does start right back up after it shuts down. I have hooked up a fuel pressure reader and it reads normal at idle speed and when it shuts down it doesn't lose and pressure. I left the pressure reader on over night to see if it would lose any and it did. It went to 0. The jeep also seems as though it has a loss of power. If the Jeep is on cruise control and you are going over a hill, it practically floors itself so it can make it. As you gas it, it just seems to lose power not gain much. I changed the "tps" thinking that was the problem and it helped a little but it has to be something else. My guess is a mixture of possible fuel filter/pump and "cps". If anyone has any guess it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks soo much for your time.
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is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and
throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use
carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC
chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is
running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the
speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and
blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the
negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
code 27 is a fuel injector problem. The best way to check them is to start the jeep and take the injector wires off the injectors on at a time. If you pull the wires off the injector while its running it should make it run worse. if it does put the wires back on that one is not the problem then move onto the next. If you get one or two that don't make the engine run worse when you pull the wires off that is the one that is bad. Should only be one. oh and code 55 just means end of codes so don't worry about that one.
in a perfect world, computers and related systems are a great addition to the automotive industry...But, You would not dream of using your PC in the backyard, in the rain, snow and searing heat. Yet the system in your car is asked to do that daily. (would be nice if a little button like on a chicken would pop out of a failed component to tell you it's not well.....Your guesses are valid, but before you go out and buy parts, have a code scan done and see what's there. Codes give you a direction to begin looking, they don't get really specific, but when added to what you already see and know can be very helpful. Fuel pump problems don't show codes though so you may need to do a pressure test. CPS will sometimes throw a code, but they can also cause strange problems without doing that. The largest problem I see right now is that it starts right back up, giving you no time to do testing. The random on/off thing suggests the possibility of a bad connection either at the computer or ignition switch. You can try wiggling the harness a bit and see if you can get it to stall. It would not surprise me if it took a while to find this problem as this is the type of thing that drives even good shops crazy.
Yes, but my problem came in a 1995 wrangler 4.0 liter. It is the camshaft sensor unit. Mine was in the distributor assembly. Get one I can almost garauntee that is what it is. I cannot however garauntee my spelling! Hope this helps!
a bad cam sensor will cause vehicle to shut off while driving, and cause a hard time starting. but this usually sets a trouble code p0340. scan vehicle to see if any codes come up. after it is fixed, erase codes with a obd2 scanner. if you do not have one, you can go to any auto parts store and they will erase codes for free.
Check for a clogged catalytic conveter or weak fuel pump. Remove the O2 sensor so exhaust can flow out hole and test drive it. If it's better replace the cat or look for kinked or dented section of the exhaust. If it didn't help, have the fuel pressure tested as well as the ignition advance and timing chain.
'till you do some in depth testing of all systems, I'd place equal weight on every possibility. Make sure you cover the basics like fuel filter etc before getting crazy with it though. Also check cap. rotor, coil and wires. Idle cylinder pressure is different than that encountered when driving. This additional pressure will cause ignition spark to seek a better easier ground,(not the spark plugs where it should be going) causing missing under load.After checking , if you haven't found anything, its time to begin testing fuel pump pressures, modules and controls. good luck