Question about 2000 Chevrolet Blazer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.
If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:
1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.
NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
You need to unbolt the steering box from the frame. You can do it with the lines still attached. Gently roll the steering box on its side. you can rent a pitman arm puller from autozone or advance auto.
Think positive, it can and has been done....
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
SOURCE: replace idler arm/pitman arm
Don't worry it is not too hard if you keep at. One "special tool" that you will need is a ball joint separator to separate the ball joint on the idler arm from the steering. When changing make sure to compare your replacement parts with the original and if necessary make a diagram of how things go together. On the bottom, there is a castle nut and a cotter pin. Remove the pin and loosen the nut then use the ball joint separator to remove the idler arm. (This is the hardest part of the job.) Then remove the remaining bolts and take the part off. Before putting the new idler arm make sure that you put the new grease fitting on it (and go ahead and squirt a little grease in it even though it already has some) and in between the new ball joint and the steering there should be a plastic bearing that slips into place. It's a pretty straight forward job and once you take a good look at it you will see what all needs to be done. Hope this helps, let me know how it goes. Goodluck!
Posted on May 05, 2009
SOURCE: repair steering linkage
You'll have to rent or borrow a pickle fork and a pitman arm puller. There is more than one size of pickle fork so specify for tie rod ends. You can buy them too, about $100 for the pair and they are not vehicle specific.
Jack and block up your front end so the wheels are clear. Take the nut off the tie rod end and wedge the pickle fork between the tie rod and the drag link, rap with a hammer until it separates. Loosen the bolt on the collar and unscrew the tie rod end. Count the turns when you remove it and screw the new one in the same number of turns.Fit it into the drag link and tighten the collar and the new nut.
Take the nut off the idler arm and use the pickle fork to separate it from the drag link. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame. The new one goes on in the reverse.
You'll probably need an adjustable wrench to remove the nut from the pitman arm,it's bigger than most wrench sets. Separate it from the drag link first. Slide the puller on and tighten it up. Once it starts to turn hard, give the bolt on the puller a rap with the hammer and tighten some more. Repeat until the arm comes off. Slip the new one on and tighten.
Don't be shy when you tighten these parts because if there is play, the holes in the drag link will oval out and you will have to replace it too. Don,t use a pickle fork on the pitman arm or you will have to replace the seal in the bottom of the steering box. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
Try unhooking the positive post on the battery this should reset the system. As far as the radio controls and airbag, this shouldn't be related the changing parts. Try checking the fuse panel for burnt out fuses.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
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