Question about Cars & Trucks
The dealer makes a carbon removal product, use it every 25,000 miles/
Posted on Apr 14, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i would first check the timing and if that does not fit i would take the cover back off and look at the belt for a bad or missing tooth
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
lrb2199: What this shop has suggested in terms of replacement is pretty much the norm.
1st, if the timing belt lets go or if it jumps time you are going to be hocking the kids to pay for the repairs.
You are looking at a Diesel engine which gets a little on the toasty side to begin with. The motor oil sometimes, depending on the selection may not be too kind on the oil seals.
When you are replacing the timing belt, there is not much more effort involved to remove the front crank and cam seals and replace them with new ones because you are right there! It's a matter of sliding a gear off or unbolting a gear to gain access to a seal.
As for the Water pump, Water pumps don't last for ever and will start to seep through what is referred to as the "WEEP" hole.
If the seal fails, antifreeze will leak onto the timing belt. Antifreeze is a very slippery substance and can potentially cause the engine to jump time. So, you have a water pump that is 9 years old and HOW MANY MILES ON IT? Personally, I would suggest putting another one on. Thermostats also have a limited service life. The part is not that expensive and with the repairs being what they are, often shops throw the labor in on replacing some parts such as thermostats if they are not a big deal. Main drive belts, again, it is a wear item, it could be well worn, possibly may have another 5,000 miles on it, but you have the opportunity to have a new one installed for just the cost of the part rather than pay labor 6 months down the road. The valve cover has to be removed to access the timing belt on some engines because of the way they are configured. Again, the part may not be that expensive, and the opportunity is there to do it while the timing belt is being replaced.
OR, the costs are nominal. Valve cover gaskets on the turbo diesel VW's do start to leak, so take advantage of the opportunity.
I can understand exactly where you are coming from because it is frightening sometimes to hear people tell their stories about what they had to pay for repair on their cars.
Brake shops as an example (NOT ALL OF THEM) seem to be notorious for selling expensive work which may not really need to be done. Example: I have been in business for 28 going on 29 years. I do not sell calipers, rotors, brake master cylinders and other costly items on the majority of the brake work which comes through my shop. WHY? Because they do not need those parts!
I had a customer who learned the hard way. We had given him a quote for brakes. In this case he did need rotors on his Mercedes.
WE use "ATE" rotors and "TEXTAR" pads which are original equipment parts. They cost a little bit more, but I don't have comebacks (complaints). The husband had to leave town and the wife thought we were too high so she called one of the national chains brake shops. They suckered her in at a price over a hundred dollars lower than mine. When she left their establishment her repair bill was a little over a thousand dollars more than my quote.
They sold her calipers, rotors, brake master, system flush, and a hot wax enema! I don't see how they can get away with things like that? I know for a FACT what that car needed because the car has been in here for regular service for over four years. His wife just thought she could save some money! I guess she did HUH?
Anyway, it sounds like your guy is on the up and up.
Got any more questions? I'll be happy to answer them.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
GoeffreyH is not correct. On this engine the water pump is run by a small, single, separate belt which cannot be adjusted by the alternator because it (and the water pump itself) are on the opposite end of the engine from the crank pulley and other accessories, such as alternator, A/C, etc. which are driven by the main serpentine belt. The water pump is driven by a pulley on the end of one camshaft. Your confusion stems from the change from the old system, in which a longer belt was used with a tensioner in the traditional fashion, and the new system on 2004 vans where the tensioner was eliminated and a 'stretch fit' belt was used. Stretch fit belts have a springy component (like a rubber band) and keep their own tension this way by being stretched a bit to fit over the pulleys then holding snug against them. The problem is that some parts books erroneously call for the old belt for vans which need the new one. So the first belt your mechanic got was longer (to fit over the extra tensioner pulley) and static (not stretchy). On these newer vans, you can still see the mounting boss where the tensioner would have gone, it's part of the castings so it's still there. That's why it looks like there's a place for a tensioner but like none was ever there. Both your observations are correct. The only thing you need to do now is make sure your new belt is the right one, that it's a stretch fit belt, so it maintains tension (otherwise the water pump pulley will eventually start to slip and spin too slowly and the van will overheat) and also that it's not TOO tight, which will put you out of another water pump. The correct belt, if it's from NAPA, would be 030250SF.
Posted on Aug 22, 2010
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