Question about 2007 Mazda 3 1.6

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Noise at rear RH wheel

Clunking noise at rear RH wheel at slower speed and on rough roads. The noise goes away on the hi-way.

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Shocks or bushings and/or suspension worn

Posted on Apr 14, 2014


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Front wheels make a whirring sound Is this a wheel bearing or could it be c v joint

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Vibration on 2004 Cadillac Deville

If a hub bearing was bad, it almost always would make noise, more so when changing lanes at higher speed. Outer CV joints make a loud low pitched rattle when turning (corners). Inner CV joints raise hell at high speed- bad shake! Sway links affect cornering and clunk when hitting rough patches of road surface.
Is the vibration worse at 65 than at 50? If so, you are dealing with a wheel balance situation. Find an old time front end shop that will check the balance on the vehicle. You will have to turn off the traction control to do this or use an on-the-car wheel balancer.
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Hi the only other thing it could really be is the wheel bearing itself, usually in subarus they grind or clunk with wheel movement so if you go faster so does the noise, a garage would be able to tell you strait away as you cant really pull them apart without the right gear. Also check the strut, very unlikely but if a spring is collapesd it wll make a similar noise but wont speed up etc, its also worth noting that a cv can make the noises you describe but it would have to be completly destroyed and quite noticable hope this helps

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That noise sounds to me like a Ball Joint problem. I would check to see if you have fittings to grease the front suspention.

Good luck, Allen

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could be the left fr wheel brg. but to be SURE, lift up car, spin the wheel, when you are spinning the wheel, grab the coil spring on thr strut. it should fell smooth,compare both sides, if its a wheel brg you will feel the roughness through the spring. a lot of mechanics will even replace the wrong brg, but this method nails it every time. ; )

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My car makes a loud clunking noise at around 65mph.

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Good luck!!

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had P0753 code worked on by 2 different repair shops and still no resolution, HELP?! Have a 2007 Mazda 3 with 104,000 miles, 95% of it all highway been running great till now. Felt engine slip recently and engine light came on with code of PO753 - shift solenoid A malfunction. Brought to Mazda dealership wanted $2200 low to $3300 to replace my valve body assembly. So got 2nd opinion from local transmission specialist, changed the Shift Valve Solenoid, first time drove it for a day engine light came back on with AT light on as well. Brought it back he replace same solenoid thought maybe first was not good. Drove it for a day, engine light back on. Took it to Aamco they basically said it was electrical, not valve body assembly. They replaced some wiring in car, said it was fixed. Ran good for about 3 days, then engine light and AT light when engine slipped slight one more time. Took if back to Aamco today, diagnostics coming back clear, said maybe need to replace ECM at some point down the road but seems to be running fine. Feel screwed since engine light is still on, they tell me I'm fine driving on it. Said replacing the ECM was expensive and car appears to be running fine since diagnostics came back clear.Both places said dealership assessment with valve body replacement was not going to solve the issue, but issue not solved, any suggestions or thoughts? very confused what to do now paid out about $850 for both places so far. First guy gonna reimburse the solenoid part and some of the labor. No reimbursement yet from Aaamco said i can drive it with engine light on seems okay.

Jun 04, 2014 | 2007 Mazda 3 1.6

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