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Air Conditioning SHOULD only be worked on by a specialist as the gas is TOXIC take to a garage unless you want a severe accident waiting to happen on your hands
Posted on Apr 14, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi. Here are the Steps you requested.
Step1 Park the vehicle on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Place the vehicle in gear or park and apply the parking brake. Step2 Place a wheel chock behind a rear tire (or front if you're doing a rear hub bearing assembly). Break the lug nuts loose of wheel of the hub bearing you're replacing with the breaking bar and a socket; just loosen-- do not remove them until the wheel is lifted off of the ground. Lift the wheel with the floor jack in a safe and secure manner. Support the vehicle on a jack stand, preferably on the frame rail if present. Remove the lug nuts and wheel. Step3 Locate the caliper bolts and remove them with the ratchet and a socket. Pry the caliper off gently using a large straight edged screwdriver and support the caliper on the coil spring with a bungy cord. Do not allow the caliper to dangle on the rubber brake hose. Step4 Locate the caliper bridge bolts (if applicable) and remove them with the ratchet and a socket. You may want to break them loose with the breaking bar first if they're really tight. On some vehicles, the brake pads will remain in the bridge and can be removed by prying out with the screwdriver. Other models, the pads may stay intact and clipped to the caliper. If you have to remove the pads, do so by taking note how they were placed in the bridge and be sure when it comes time to put them back in, that you do so in the same manner they were extracted. Step5 Remove the rotor. If it is stuck to the hub, you may have to hit it with a large rubber mallet. Only use a rubber mallet if you're not intending on replacing the rotor so you do not damage the surface of it. It may require a degree of determination to break it free. Step6 Remove any ABS wires attached to the hub bearing assembly (if applicable) or unclip the wire and trace it to the plug. In many applications, if the ABS wire is integrated with the wheel bearing hub assembly, a new one is going to come with it. If you're not sure, check the box of the new bearing and if there's an ABS wire, follow the wire until you locate the plug, unplug it and simply unclip it from it's mounts. If ABS is present but not integrated with the bearing assembly, remove the sensor from the bearing with a ratchet and socket. If you do not have ABS wires, you can skip this step. Step7 Remove the spindle nut with the breaking bar and a spindle nut socket. Remove the washer behind the spindle nut. Step8 Locate the wheel bearing assembly bolts behind the knuckle. Loosen them with the breaking bar and socket. The location of these can sometimes create a tight area to place a socket and tool on to remove them with. You may have to apply some ingenuity. Once they're loose, replace the socket on the ratchet to extract the bolts more quickly and much easier. Most hubs have three or four bolts. Step9 Install the slide hammer onto the lug studs and secure with tightened lug nuts. This may take several attempts and a couple of breaks in between to remove the hub bearing from the knuckle. Pay close attention to your progress and try to determine when the bearing will separate so you do not hurt yourself while slide hammering. Take note how the backing plate is installed between the knuckle and the bearing to replace it in the same manner. Step10 Using a fine to medium grade sand paper, sand off the rust and corrosion around the knuckle. You'll have to strategically move the drive shaft spindle around to get it out of your way. Take your time when doing this because you want that as clean as you can get it before installing the new bearing. Step11 Place the backing plate back in it's original place and place the new bearing onto the knuckle. You'll have to manipulate the drive shaft spindle splines correctly into the center of the hub bearing. Push the bearing on as far as you can but be sure to line it up correctly if ABS lines or plugs are present. Once it is on far enough, replace the wheel bearing assembly bolts. They're pretty long, so as soon as you can thread them into the new bearing, then start to tighten them. Pull the bearing in by tightening the bolts a little bit at a time and then switching to the next bolt. This will make sure the bearing assembly does not shift in the knuckle and cause damage. Once the bearing is drawn in flush, tighten the bolts one last time with the breaking bar as tight as you can get them. Step12 Replace washer and spindle nut and tighten to proper torque specifications with the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and spindle socket. Step13 Replace the brakes in the same manner you extracted them. You may need to push the caliper piston in a little bit with a C-clamp to get it over the rotor. Plug in the ABS lines or reattach them to the bearing if applicable. Step14 Replace the tire and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can get them, then lower the vehicle and tighten them in an alternate fashion with the torque wrench and socket at the correct wheel nut specifications torque setting. Step15 Pump the brake pedal if you had to push the caliper piston in with a C-clamp to restore hydraulic pressure to that caliper piston. Remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake, and test drive.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
lift the tailgate, and you should see 2 screws on the side of the lamp assembly. remove the screws, and remove the lamp assembly by sliding it sideways away from the vehicle. you will be able to access the bulbs & sockets once the taillamp has been released.
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
Remove the Oil Pump
Drive your Dodge Caravan up onto ramps or lifts so you have room to work as you pull out the oil pump. You could also use a jack, but make sure you brace the front wheels and engage the parking break so the car doesn't roll.
Disconnect the negative battery cable on your Dodge Caravan. Drain the engine oil and coolant into separate pans. Take the vehicle off the ramps or lifts. Remove the accessory drive belts and use an engine support tool to hold the weight of the engine.
Take out the right engine mount and bracket. Take off the timing belt cover and loosen the bolts on the timing belt tensioner. Remove both the tensioner and the timing belt then raise the vehicle back on the ramps or lifts.
Take out the oil pan assembly and remove the oil pump pick-up and the O-ring. Take the crankshaft damper out with a good puller. Use a puller to also draw the crankshaft sprocket from the front of the crankshaft.
Loosen the bolts on the oil pump and take them off. Remember where they were since you'll need to replace them later. Unscrew the relief valve.
Install the New Oil Pump
Clean all the parts to remove contaminants and debris then install the inner rotor. Make sure the chamfer faces the cast iron oil pump cover on the back. Torque the bolts to 105 in. lb.
Install the relief valve, followed by the spring, gasket and cover cap. The cover cap should be tightened to 40 ft. lb.
Fill the rotor cavity with clean engine oil to prime it then insert a new O-ring seal into the oil pump. Put Mopar Gasket Maker or equivalent anaerobic type gasket sealer on the flange of the oil pump body.
Align the oil pump rotor flats with the flats on the crankshaft and install the pump slowly, tightening the fasteners to 20 ft. lb. Add the new front oil seal and install it with the spring side facing the inside of the engine. Even it out with the engine cover.
Install the crankshaft sprocket with the special sprocket tool. Put on the oil pump pick-up tube and O-ring and torque the bolt to 20 ft. lb.
Insert the oil pan and install a new oil filter. Lower your vehicle then install the timing belt and covers and crankshaft damper with a tool specialized for the 2 mm by 1.75 by 150 mm bolt. Tighten the center bolt to 105 ft. lb.
Put on the accessory drive belts and adjust them to the right tension. Put on the engine mount and bracket then take out the engine support tool.
Add fresh oil to the engine and refill the cooling system. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, ethylene glycol antifreeze and water in the cooling system. Start your engine and check for leaks.
Posted on May 21, 2009
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