Replace lifters in engines

You are about to lose the whole engine. The issue is a head gasket that is bad. Could be a cracked head too.

Veronica,
You should have done your homework before taking the engine apart. If you didn't make sure you put the lifters back in the same place, did you get the camshafts in their correct location as well and did you get the timing marks lined up on the cams as well as the crankshaft?
What would cause no compression what so ever we have replaced the head...
Whatever your problem, you are going to have to start taking things apart until you find the cause.

problem with no3 cylinder hydraulic lifter
pumping up and holding the valve off the seat

Hi. I can give you a simple, but time consuming test to do to check your intermittent compression problem. New hydraulic lifters cause a lot of problems until its settled. Remove the camshafts and the hydraulic lifters. Take each hydraulic lifter and put it in a vice(becarefull not to damage them) and squeeze out all the oil in the lifters. Then put them back and replace camshaft and allign timing marks. Check compression ratio. What happens sometimes is that the oil pressure is too high(stuck oil pressure release valve or cold thick oil) and this causes the oil pressure to put so much pressure on the hydraulic lifters, that it slightly forces the valve open. That will cause your low compression as well as backfire through the intake.

Do you have the 2.2 liter Ecotec 4-cylinder engine, the 3.5 liter V6, or the 3.9 liter V6 engine? If you have the 2.2 liter engine, there may be a camshaft/timing chain issue if you skipped a tooth when you put the chain back on the cams. If it's a 3.5 or a 3.9 liter V6, you may have incorrectly installed the push rods back into the engine. 3.5 liter intake push rods are approx 5 3/4" long, while the exhaust push rods are approx 6" long.
The 3.9 liter intake push rods are approx 5.81" long, while the exhaust push rods are approx 6.1" long. If you mix the two lengths up when you put them back in the engine, you're going to have problems.

when you put it back together did you soak the lifters in oil for 24 hours or at all , this noise could be anything I would have to see it and hear it , this is hard to tell when not there

If the engine oil was full of antifreeze when the intake gasket went bad, then there is a good chance that there may be some cam and/or lifter damage. A more likely cause of your problem would be that the push rods got mixed up when you put it back together. The intake and exhaust rods are different lengths. If this is the case, and you have turned the engine over, there is a good chance that you now also have a bent pushrod and intake valve. The exhaust pushrod is the longer one and if you mix them up, the piston will contact the intake valve because it will not be able to close due to the longer pushrod. This will bend or break the pushrod and bend the valve stem.

Changing a head gasket is a major engine repair. Unless you have a good set of tools including a torque wrench and a good general knowledge of how things work, it can be a tough job. If you still want to try, I would highly recommend a repair manual for your vehicle such as a Haynes manual that covers 1997 Toyota trucks. It will have pictures of most of the parts as well as the specifications for tightening all the bolts when you are ready to put it all back together. Basically replacing a head gasket requires that you do the following: Drain the coolant, drain the oil. Remove fuel lines to and from the engine, remove the electrical and vacuum lines that lead to and from the intake manifold,remove the alternator, air pump, ac compressor, tie it back, don't disconnect the refrigerent lines, remove the valve cover remove the intake manifold, remove the front engine cover which will expose the timing belt. Remove the timing belt, remove the cam shaft. You should now see the head bolts. Remove the head bolts. Carefully tap on the head until you can loosen it from the engine block. You may have to drive a wedge between the head and the engine block to force it to loosen up. This is a delicate operation, because if you damage the head during removal, it won't seal with the new gasket. You will need a top rebuild gasket set for your engine. Somewhere around $150.00. Every gasket surface needs to be cleaned to the bare metal without scratching the surface. Any old gasket material left on the parts will cause leaks. Once you get the head off, spend another 150.00 or so to get it boiled out by a head shop in your area. They will also test it for leaks and cracks. If the head is cracked, it will have to be replaced. If you don't get it checked for cracks, this whole exercise will be wasted if it turns out to be a cracked head instead of a blown head gasket. Anyway, reverse everything, tighten it by the book to specified torque put in new oil and antifreeze and you are set to go. I replaced my first head gasket when I was about 15 years old. It took me a couple of weeks and I broke about 6 or 7 bolts off on things like the intake manifold, front cover etc. I learned a lot from that old '58 ford. Good luck, and get that Haynes manual.

Any cam grind that has over 220 degrees duration will give that kind of idle. However, most with that kind of duration also have a lot more lift than a stock cam. That will give you very low engine vacuum that will change how your automatic transmission shifts (not good) and can break valve springs, pull rocker studs out of the heads and cause valve/piston clearance problems. (read: bent valves, holes in piston tops)
Overall it isn't anything you want to do to your engine, especially just for the rumpy idle which though it sounds "cool" is actually a byproduct that just happens with those cams by design, but has no benefit.
Engines you hear that kind of idle also have extensive modifications to the carburetor, intake, exhaust, pistons and lower end (crankshaft) and if automatic, they have different torque converters and trans valve body mods as well.
If you want to go fast, get a good aftermarket intake and carb, a mild cam that works in mid-range rpm's, put a set of headers on it and a better exhaust system. Don't ever buy a used camshaft and always replace the lifters with the cam (once they are used, each lifter always needs to be on the same cam lobe forever. Used ones most often have not been kept in order and will quickly round off any different lobe they are used on)
Do a lot of reading and studying before buying anything or you will spend a lot of $ and wind up with junk or less than you had before. Everything needs to work together.It's not about just putting in parts. There is a ton of science and math there that can't be ignored.
good luck!!

Since I didn't put it back together, the possible causes are numerous. Tow vehicle into nearest Hyundai Service Center and pay the diagnostic fee. They will give you an estimate of repairs (parts, labor, tax, time-frame, etc.). This way you'll know EXACTLY what the problem is and what's required to fix it. Here's a list of possible causes: Timing belt improperly installed (out of time), valves have been bent due to this, connections to engine management sensors damaged (crank sensor), intake/exhaust cams inproperly installed, leaking valves, improperly installed head gasket, no fuel pressure, no ignition to spark plugs, etc. etc. etc.