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worn CV joints "click," but only upon turning. worn bearings "grind," with a faint metal-on-metal sound. So, squeaking in the front end is unlikely to be a CV joint or a bearing. Squeak could be almost any front suspension component, but here's the reason to stop guessing what it is and jack up the car, remove the two front tires and inspect the front suspension: it could be a bolt/nut that is loosening - and by catching it, and tightening it, you could save yourself the cost of replacing the missing hardware. Also, be aware that an inspecting mechanic (if your state or county requires a safety inspection (like Pennsylvania)) will inspect all components of your car's front suspension as a routine component of your car's safety inspection. Also:
1-----Inspect----- Coil Spring----- Broken or Weak Coil Springs. 2-----Inspect----- Sway Bar Bushing----- Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Stabilizer Bar Bushings. 3-----Inspect----- Steering Stabilizer Bracket----- Loose or Broken Steering Stabilizer Bracket. 4-----Inspect-----lower ball joints-----Loose bolt/rubber bushing to lower control arm. 5-----Inspect-----Upper Ball Joints-----Loose bolt/missing rubber bushing. 6-----Inspect-----Connecting Rods-----(these are the rods that connect the lower control arm to the front of the frame) Check for loose nut (on the frame side), or loose bolts (on the control arm side).
If your car is about 10 years or older chances are that the front rubber suspension components are worn and rubbing agaings their housing. There are at least 4 areas for each front tire that could be worn: Strut housing, control arm bushings, center control arm bushings, or stabilizer bar bushings. There are ball joints that can wear too, but usually do not make noises at a standstill.
My suggestion is to go to any tire store and have them look put the car up on a rack for a thorough inspection. Most people let these parts go for too long and the cost gets high to replace. You obviously are very careful with your car so this should be a routine suspension fix for the garage. Good luck.
You do not say what model vehicle you have or it's mileage.
There is a number of possible causes such as worn and perished rubber "bushes" in one or more of the suspension components which is resulting in metal to metal contact. It could be something as simple as perished bushes in the front stabilizer bar or you may have old worn out shock absorbers (which should be replaced anyway) with perished rubbers in the mounting points.
It is impossible to tell you where the fault is without testing and then inspecting the vehicle as the entire front suspension and steering needs to be checked. The vehicle needs to be put on a hoist and the front wheels removed.
I suggest you take the vehicle to a competent suspension specialist in your area who will be able to identify and rectify the fault for you.
Need to check the entire front end at a place like Sears or your dealership to determine what parts have excessive play in them. Sears doesn't usually charge for this service, in hopes that you would have them work on the car in the future.
Sometimes, the cv joints are worn and cause a rattle or clicking on turns. Also, the bushings for the lower control arms sometimes wear out causing a rattle or other noise that can be disconcerting.
When the strut bushings were replaced, were the other parts in the front end checked out?
Support the window in a position needed to access the window rivets by
inserting a rubber wedge door stops (1) at the front and rear of the window
between the window and the door inner panel.
Drill out the window rivets (3) with a 1/4 inch drill bit.
Remove the window (1) by lifting out of the door. Important:Inspect the window bushings, window bushing retainers, window front up stop,
window stabilizer pins and window wedges on the window for damage.
Remove the window bushings and window bushing retainers if necessary, using
a flat-bladed tool covered with cloth body tape.
Remove the window front up-stop screw if necessary.
Remove the window front up-stop, front up-stop nut and front up-stop washer
Remove the window stabilizer screws, if necessary.
Remove the window stabilizer pins, stabilizer pin nuts and window wedges if
Install the window stabilizer pins, stabilizer pin nuts and window wedges if
necessary. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install window stabilizer screws, if necessary. Tighten the window
stabilizer screws to 7 N.m (62 lb in).
Install the window stabilizer pin nuts, if removed. Tighten the window
stabilizer pin nuts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).
Install the window front up-stop washer, if removed.
Install the window front up-stop screw, if removed. Tighten the window
front up-stop screw to 7 N.m (62 lb in).
Install the window front up-stop nut if removed. Tighten the window front
up-stop nut to 8 N.m (71 lb in).
Install the window bushings and bushing retainers, if removed.
Install the window (1) into door so that holes in window bushings line up
with holes in channel.
sounds as though the rubber bushings (there are two of them L/R side on the stabilizer bar) could be the issue. When the bushing are loose they allow the stabilizer bar to bump against the steering or rack and pinon.
If the rubber is not worn out deteriorated, the problem if you have rattles over bumps may not be the bushings. It may be the stabilizer links (these links attach to the strut at the top and to the sway bar at the bottom. These links were a very high failure item. Thank you
check shock absorber mounting support/ must be worn-out/ or stabilizer bar rubber bush / or stabilizer linkage rubber bush/ check tie rod ends balljoints / check lower suspension arms balljoints as well as upper suspension arm balljoints and lastly check strut bar rubber bushes/ all the mentioned parts can be easily seen underneath the car....
Grab hold off the prop-shaft to see if it is quite solid, it could be a worn UJ. Check the balance weight on the same shaft to ensure it hasn't slipped forward or backwards on the shaft.
Then get wheels checked, they could need re-balancing.