Question about 1996 Audi A4
Was driving yesterday been having problem with water loss, problem was fixed due to leeking rad. but yesterday the temp went up to about three quarter of my dial, I pulld over thinking i should let the water cool down , opened my cap water went everywhere, let it cool down replaced a small amount, when driving home i had power loss then it corrected it self I also noticed the speedo was not working as well, Itook it to my garage and they was not sure why it was doing this, any one help
intermittent engine power loss problem, which make my speedo not work some times and go crazy as well
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Audi A4 B5
According to a buddy of mine who did it on a 99:
Pull up on the little trim piece behind the steering wheel. Underneath it are two phillips screws. Remove them and the instrument cluster will wiggle out. You'll have to disconnect the plugs on the back of the instrument cluster. They can be a little tricky, and even moreso to reinstall. You'll see how the bulbs come out after that.
Posted on Jul 23, 2008
SOURCE: Audi A4 95 2.6 Abc engine
To be honest, I don't have any experience with the 2.6, but from the sounds of it, you have coolant flow through the upper hose (which would explain why it's hot) and none through the lower hose (which is why it's cold). One resource you could check is www.vagcat.com - sign up (free) for your car and drivetrain, and it should show you everything you need.
Posted on Sep 14, 2008
SOURCE: temp guage not working
It's most likely one of two things: 1) coolant temp sensor (meaning the gauge isn't working), or 2) stuck thermostat (meaning the gauge is working but the coolant isn't getting hot)
Start with the coolant temp sensor - it's on the back of the engine, somewhat near the top, toward the passenger side. On your car it's likely a blue sensor body (as is the CTS on my 99 A4 2.8). The easiest way to get to it is to remove the tube leading from the airbox to the throttle body. Take that off, and you can look down and see that there's a squarish plug with four wires plugged into the top of the coolant temp sensor (at the right angle you can see the color of the sensor - black, blue, or light green, but most likely blue on your car). There's a C-shaped retaining clip that holds the connector onto the sensor which must be pulled off (pull more or less straight back toward the firewall), and then the sensor can be unplugged. The sensor itself is just pressed into the opening in the block, not screwed in - you just have to pull upward to get it out (it can be tough - try opening the cap on the coolant tank to alleviate pressure in the system). The sensor is not expensive (around $25 from www.ecstuning.com - call them up with your VIN number to guarantee they send you the right sensor).
If you change that out, and it doesn't fix the problem, don't sweat it - it means your temp sensor was working, but replacing it was a good idea anyhow since they're prone to failure and can cause all kinds of wacky problems when they go. Next most likely problem is a thermostat stuck partially or fully open, and this is more invasive - it requires removing the front bumper, opening up the core support (with radiator and AC condensor), losing (and having to flush and refill) your coolant, and the removal of the serpentine belt and fans. It sounds horrifying but it's pretty easy actually.
I'd suggest starting with the CTS and see if it fixes the problem. If it does not, reply here and let me know and I can help you through the thermostat replacement if you're mechanically inclined and have the tools. If you're in the northeast, I can do either repair for you (I'm in the southern tier of NY) and save you a bundle over a dealership, and save you the aggravation of doing it yourself if you're not mechanical or don't have the tools or experience.
Posted on May 02, 2009
I know it sounds funny, but check the air flow sensor. They had issues on all models with 100 and 130 bhp turbocharged diesels from audi/volkswagen.
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
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