Question about 2005 Nissan Altima
It will turn over but will not start. On the second or third time, it will start. At first, it would start and then cut off after driving about 100 yards. I put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank. But, I don't know if it helped or not. It doesn't cut off anymore, but I'm still having the same problem with starting. I don't know if this will help, but if I turn the key in the ignition half way and hold a few seconds, the car will start. What are your thoughts and can anyone replace the fuel pump? What is the procedure...step by step? Thanks so much in advance.
BEFORE YOU TRY TO START YOUR CAR, TURN THE KEY TO THE ON POSITION AND STOP TO HEAR A WHISSING SOUND COMING FROM YOUR FUEL TANK. IF YOU HEAR THAT NOISE, THAT IS YOUR FUEL PUMP ENGAGING AND IT IS WORKING FINE. IF NOT, YOU SHOULD DEFINITELY GET IT CHANGED. ITS A GRUELING PROCESS SO HAVE A MECHANIC DO IT. IF YOUR FUEL PUMP IS WORKING, TRYING CHECKING THE PRESSURE OF YOUR FUEL. YOU MIGHT NEED A NEW FUEL FILTER(IT CAN GET CLOGGED UP) OR YOUR FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR MAY BE MALFUNCTIONING.
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you recently replaced the battery, you may need to reset the idle air control valve setting. This is done by removing the NEGATIVE battery wire from the battery while the vehicle is HOT. Then you must wait several hours for the vehicle engine to become cold. Next, once could, reconnect the negative cable. Start the vehicle, place your foot on the brake and imediately put the vehicle in drive. Stay in that situation until the vehicle engine bcomes hot to normal temperature range. This will be known by hearing the radiator cooling fan turning on. You must NOT use the airconditioner during this cause it will be on during the event. Once accomlplished place in park and allow the engine to cool, engine off. This resets the engine computer to tell the idle/load speed control valve to add air and resuling in additional fuel to the engine under various torque loads.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
frajogag: First off, be aware that these bolts are "torque to yield" bolts (streach bolts). What this means is that instead of torqueing the head bolts to a specific torque specification, they are torqued down to a set spec and then tightened by rotating the bolts a certain angle, like 90 degrees. and all of them are turned the same amount.
This means that the shanks of the bolts must be checked to make sure they are not too thin (or the bolt has already stretched beyond limits and is prone to snap if used)
Here is how you check the bolts. Measure the bolt using a micrometer, at the base, or within the first 13mm from the end where it threads in. Then go to about 10mm before the threads end heading toward the top of the bolt. There should not be more than a 0.23mm (.0091 inch) or less difference or the bolt should be discarded.
Torque the bolts down to 98.1Nm ( 72.ft lb)
Looking at the head from the side, so you are looking at the full length from side to side, I will number the head bolts in this fashion.
#1 & 2 are directly in front of you and in the center of the cylinder head crossing it width wise.
#3&4 are to the left of #1&2, / #5&6 are to the right of #1&2
#7&8 are to the left of #3&4 / #9$10 are to the right of #5&6
Now, you have the sequence.
After the initial pull, back off all the bolts in the same sequence and then retorque them to 36 Nm ( 28 ft lb)
Using a torque angle wrench or having the ability to accurately judge turning angles. Rotate (clockwise) to a 75 degree angle. do this to all the bolts using the sequence I had provided.
Rotate the bolts (clockwise) 75 degrees again on all bolts in the same sequence. The proceedure is complete!
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
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