At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? How to test automotive electrical circuits using a digital voltmeter ? This is how professional auto technicians find electrical faults . Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know The Trainer 73 Building Solid Electrical Foundation
The voltage is supplied at all times through the STOP HAZ Fuse 1 to the TCC brake and cruise control release switch. The contacts in the TCC brake and cruise control release switch close when the brake pedal is depressed. The voltage is supplied through the hazard switch and the turn signal switch to the left and right stoplamps. The stoplamp will flash as a turn signal lamp if the turn signal switch is on. The stoplamp on the opposite side will serve as a stoplamp.
There are two common reasons for an electrical supply to a carb. One is for an electric heater to warm the automatic choke and the other is to an anti-dieseling or anti-run-on solenoid. The first is selof-explanatory and the second is a device to cut the fuel or air to the idle passages when the ignition is switched off. The electric heater could be controlled by the ignition too or it could be controlled by a relay operated from the alternator ignition light.
There is a variety of other possible reasons there is a supply to the carb from extreme cold weather adaptions to emission control measures and a few things in between.
You could have any number of defects causing this problem.
If the starter works when you short across the relay, it's clearly not that, but it cloud be the relay itself, which is not uncommon. You can test to see if the relay is engaging by supplying electrical power to the smaller positive connecter on the relay using a piece of wire direct from the battery. If that works your problem is in the electrical supply from the starter switch, which is usually part of the ignition switch. For example, if you engage the start position with the ignition on, you should get an electrical voltage at the small terminal on the starter solenoid that you previously shorted with the bit of wire. The starter circuit will be protected by a fuse or circuit-breaker, if the problem is with the electrical supply to the solenoid/relay then you need to check the starter fuse or circuit breaker. If the fuse looks intact you need to check it with a meter as looks can be deceiving. If the fuse checks out as good then the problem is either the starter switch failing to make a good contact or a break in the wire between the switch and the solenoid/relay.
If you decide to check the starter switch, it is not uncommon to find a voltage at the switch but due to bad or dirty contacts in the switch, insufficient electrical current will pass to engage the solenoid/relay. This will of course be the same when you check for electrical supply to the relay, that is why you need to try to engage the relay with a remote bit of wire. Unless you can dismantle the switch and clean the contacts you may need a new switch. So, check the wire from the switch to the relay. If you remove the small positive wire at the relay and attach your remote power supply to the end of the wire, taking care to insulate the connection to prevent it shorting on anything else, you should get an electrical power reading on your meter at the start switch. If you don't you have a broken wire or connection. Sometimes it's easier to run a new wire and isolate the old one, if this is the case and you can't find an obvious break in the connection. Rgs. Bob
thats because the electrical system is using more power than the alternator supplies at idle so the ECU increases idle so that all electrical systems i.e fuel delivery etc have enough power supplied absolutely normal
Power Distribution Center (underhood) is a main electrical junction box; most electrical components are supplied and protected though this box. If an electrical component short circuits it will blow a fuse in this box in most cases. The control relay and micro control relay are used as a high amperage switch for devices that require high amounts of amperage for an extended amount of time. The fuse or fusible link supply voltage to sub electrical systems.
If you need fuse diagrams or additional details about fuses on Ford Taurus, just contact us.
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate
your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about
this answer.
Hi,
it sounds as if the power supply to the ECU is being interrupted when aother electrical items are powered up. Check the main power supply lead to the ECU using a digital test meter. Check the voltage when everything electrical is turned off, with the engine at idle, Keep the meter leads attached to the power supply to the ECU, and have an assistant turn on some electrical items, carefully observe the meter, to see if the power voltage to the ECU drops off or is interrupted. If the power drops off, then you have a starting point.
If you are confident of your electrical skills, you could make a simple test device to by-pass the normal power feed to the ECU, then power up some items and if the engine does not die, again, you have a starting point for trouble shooting. Electrical troubleshooting is a task which requires lots of patience and a logical approach to the problem.
You might also wish to check the power supply to the fuel pump for the same reasons as the above. Again, be logical and systematic, do NOT be tempted to engage in shortcuts, they are seldom worth the trouble and effort expended, and generally, you will find yourself doing twice the work for a very small return!
You can electrical supply directly from plus battery to electrical starter solenoid. For that you must prepar an electrical wire. One end connected at the electrical starter solenoid, and another end directly on plus battery. If electrical starter crancks the problem is on electrical supply. If doesn't cranks then electrical starter is out of order and must be removed from engine and repaired! The most frequent problem of electric starters are carbon brushes used! Did you try this operation?
Those electric seats have relays(for movement & heater element) and a sophisticated DPDT switch. Hooking up a 12volt supply won't work,,,not to mention 20amp 12volt power supply
×