Question about 1992 Pontiac Sunbird

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Replacing front struts

Can't get wheels to line up straight they are pointing away from each other when tie rods are put in place

Posted by Anonymous on

  • Robert Brown
    Robert Brown Jul 13, 2017

    try undoing tie rod castle nuts and unscrewing the tie rods a couple turns. may need to adjust and try a couple times.

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  • Pontiac Master
  • 42,159 Answers

Back to basics and do the job again as you have installed something incorrectly

Posted on Jul 13, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 611 Answers

SOURCE: how much estimate to fix tie rod

rougly 125 and shoud include alignment

Posted on Jun 22, 2008

  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: Vibration in passenger side

have you changed the shock or strut sometimes that can make it viberate or have you checked the engine mounts on that side?

Posted on May 30, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 75822 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 Pontiac G6 front wheel vibration

sounds like your front end is worn out and yes tie rod ends are a common source of this problem along with out of balance tires and seperated tire cords, any tire store will inspect your car for free and give you an estimate to repair.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

Mechanic65
  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: broken tie rod

If both tires turn when you turn steering wheel it is not a broken tie rod.

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: just installed new rotors,brake pads, bearings and

One of your CV joints are bad, inspect which CV joint needs to be replaced. Roll your windows down and make tight right and left corners in an empty parking lot slowly and listen for the clicking noise. If it's coming from the passenger side window or the drivers side window, which ever side the noise is coming from is the side that the CV joint has failed and will need to be replaced.
Thank you for using FIxya and replacing the front wheel bearing improperly buy hammering the CV joint out instead of using a wheel bearing puller will cause damage to the CV joint as to what you have described. Good luck and keep us posted.

Posted on Jul 20, 2010

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I had my passat cc serviced and was told tie rods need replacement, my quote says front strut tops are noisy and link rods need replacement, are these parts also called the tie rods, is this a play on...


No, Paul, those are three different areas, or things. The tie rods connect to the wheel spindle that the tire is mounted on. That is for steering. The link rods connect the sway bar to each side of the front end- these are high wear items, often replaced.

The third: now the "strut tops" being noisy, this should be of concern to you, insofar as what are they doing about that? Ask them if that means replacing worn struts (quite an added expense), or checking the security of the top mounting-like loose bolts or nuts. I would want specifics on what exactly they mean. The strut tops are where the two front struts mount on the car frame, and usually found under the hood on each side, like 3 nuts holding the top of the strut, and the bottom of the strut is attached to the wheel spindle or wheel knuckle, same thing. So the strut at the wheel, moving up and down, strut absorbs the shock and diminishes it by a solid mounting to the frame- the strut tops. Hope this helps you understand a bit.

Mar 30, 2015 | Volkswagen Passat Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cluncking noise from front end when pulling away / braking hard and some times when turning


You didn't say what make or model or year, but This could be so many things. Bad ball joints, bad control arm, bad struts, strut plates, bad CV joint, bad inner tie rod, bad wheel bearing, caliber , sway bar, . Not enough info, but if you put vehicle in the air and pry wheel around looking for anything loose in the steering components, this is the best thing to do, and it will give you a better idea of what's going wrong

Feb 06, 2013 | Ford Transit Connect Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a toyota altezza and i have a squeaking noise in front suspension


Hello alt.... There are several possible causes.


1. Test drive the car. Start with the windows down. Find a parking lot or somewhere relatively quiet so the noises can be heard. Drive straight at 20 miles per hour and lightly apply the brakes. Listen for squealing, rubbing or grinding; this would indicate worn brake pads. Slow the car to 10 miles per hour and make a sharp turn in both directions. If you hear a clicking noise, the CV joints are bad and need to be replaced. If you hear a grinding noise when driving straight ahead slowly, the hub bearings are bad. Come to a stop and turn the wheel in both directions. If a grinding noise is present, the top bearing plate is suspect and must be checked further. Put the car in park and get out. Push up and down on the front end of the car. If a squealing noise is present, the struts or control arm bushings are bad and need further inspection. Take the car home to continue the inspection.

2 Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and position the jack stands under the frame. Let the car down on the jack stands.

3 Grasp the tire on both sides and attempt to wobble it left and right; if there is any movement with no corresponding movement in the steering wheel, one or both tie rod ends are loose and need to be replaced. Have a helper wobble the tire while you slide under the car and observe the inner and outer tie rods ends. This is the link from the rack and pinion steering to the steering knuckle. Place a hand on the outer tie rod end as the tire is being moved; if you can feel freeplay, the outer joint needs to be replaced. Place a hand on the inner tie rod shaft; if you can feel it moving in and out with the movement of the tire, the inner tie rod is faulty.

4 Look at the tire for uneven wear indicating an alignment problem. Spin the tire slowly and look for flat spots, humps in the tread or wire protruding from the tread indicating a separated tire.

5 Grab the tire at the top and bottom and shake the tire in and out; if you can feel any freeplay, the hub bearing is bad and needs replacement.

6 Place the pry bar under the tire. Lift up and release several times; if the tire can be lifted with very little pressure the lower ball joint is bad and needs replacing.

7 Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Place your hand on the coil spring on the strut and have a helper turn the steering wheel to the left and right; if you can feel any grinding, the top bearing cap on top of the strut is defective and needs to be replaced.

8 Inspect the strut for leakage around the seals. Replace if they are leaking.

9 Inspect the brake pads and rotors for wear and replace as necessary.

10 Inspect the sway bar front bushing where it is mounted under the radiator and make sure it is in place. Inspect the sway bar links on the ends of the sway bar where they connect to the lower control arm. They consist of a long bolt with a series of rubber bushings held on to the lower control arm by a nut. Replace these if they are loose or have any worn parts. They are a major noise problem

Mar 25, 2011 | 2002 Lexus IS 300

1 Answer

Two mechanics, two different answers. We had the struts replaced on our 1997 Chrysler Concorde a couple months ago. A few weeks ago we had the front tie rods replaced and then needed an alingment. The...


well Janet, the tie rods are what attaches the steering to the wheel assembly, so if the wheel is turned, then yes the tie rod ends are supposed to move up and down a little to compensate for the stress of the wheel moving. if they where installed correctly then the componets should not touch nor become close to each other. tpyically these componets only have one installation procedure, and it is hardly likly to install them wrong, unless the installer forgets to put the washers and rubber in the right order. and it is possible that on some vehicles the left and right tie rod ends are installed opposite of each other and this will cause them to contact other parts, and this is bad. it will bent the tie rods and offset the steering. I have been a heavy line mechanic for the past 20 yrs as well and it sounds like the technition at the alignment shop just dident want to mess with your car. in the center there is a connection point that has two bolts and a flat metal plate to attach the inner tie rods to the rack n pinion, and no these should not move any direction except a rotation, meaning circular, not up and down or left and right. and alot of the time I get this car in my shop is when its just plain worn out and they move around verry sloppy, or someome has not tightened them up enough, because they are a pain to get to. hope this helps.

Dec 31, 2010 | 1997 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

Can you slide the transmissin away and replace seal


It would be nice to know what year & model.
But still not likely.
To replace the front seal If it is an AUTOMATIC, you must remove a lot of parts.
For front wheel drive the first thing are the wheels. Then drop the lower ball joints,break loose the struts from the tie-rods. In some cases lower control arms, sway bars, stabilizers,exhaust systems
The drive shaft(rear wheel drive) or drive-axles (front wheel drive),
transmission mount
cross-member (rear wheel)
shift rods or cable
hydraulic lines (if automatic)
inspection/access cover at bottom-rear of engine,electrical sensors(if applicable). Then the Bell housing bolts as well as torque converter bolts.
And THEN, because the torque converter holds the majority of your transmission fluid the transmission must be removed with the torque converter attached.Moved far enough away that the converter can be removed safely without spilling the fluid everywhere and where the removal & replacement of the seal can take place where as not to damage it during installation.
Some seals if aren't put it perfectly straight will kink the rubber and jeopardize the whole job.
And the worst thing that can happen after that big job is to have a leak. It must be done right without taking short cuts.
Its a $10.00 part but $300 -$1000 OR MORE to put it in.

Sep 18, 2010 | Plymouth Breeze Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Any info on tie rods


You have left and right inner tie rods and outer tie rods on your car.
You also have lower ball joints which can wear loose too....not to mention the left and right struts and upper strut bearings.

A cheap (China) tie rod may last only a year.(plastic inner wear points)
A good quality tie rod may last 10.(nylon and/or metal wear points)

Oct 09, 2009 | 1991 Ford Escort

2 Answers

REPLACING LEFT TIE RODS


Genreally speaking the outter tie rod is only worn. The inner connection to the rack is more of a coupling than a rod end. You will need a 22 mm openend wrench and probally a 16mm and a 18mm opened wrench. A set of pliers to remove the old and bend the new cotterpin. Remove wheel cover and loosen the wheel nuts. Jack up the car and place jack stand or wood blocking, (or as a minimum place the wheel you removed) under the car to prevent the car from falling on you while it's in the air. Do not rely on the jack to keep the car up. Cars are heavy. remove wheel Loosen jam nut that locks the tie rod end to the connecting rod of the steering rack, spray adjustment treads with penetetrating oil to help it spin free. You may have to lock the adjustable shaft by the placing wrench on the hex portion of the shaft just inwards of the tread. Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end. Remove nut. Take hammer and drive the tie rod from the steering knuckle. To help with the alignment of the front wheel try not to move the the steering knucle brake assembly. Unscrew the tie rod , lubricate the tread and in stall the new one. adjust the treads so that the tie rod slides back into the steering knuckle without turning the knuckle. Install the tie rod nut, tighten and secure with new cotterpin. Do not tightnen the jam nut that locks the tie rod nut to the inner adjustment rod for the steering rack, instead place the wheel back on the car, lower car and finish tightnen. with the car lowered, position the car steering wheel straight. Look at right side wheel. You should be able to line the the edges of the front wheel with your eye's with the outside edge of the rear wheel. if this doesn't line up check steering wheel postion. Now after seeing what the wheel alaignment looks like on the right side, go to the left side. If you look along the outside of the left ire and you see the tread of the rear tire , you have to muckh toe out. Lenghten the adjustmne t rod by turning it clockwise. If when you look along the edge of the tire and you don't see the rear tire, turn the rod counter clockwise. Adjust slowly and always check that the steering wheel is in the straight position. Once you have it fairly close to straight, lock the jam nut on the tie rod and take to a wheel alignment company for finishing adjustment. Good luck.

Jul 14, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

Replacing a front wheel bearing


here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.

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Removal & Installation
  1. Apply the brakes and hold in place.
  2. Raise the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
  4. Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
  5. While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
  6. Release the brakes.
  7. Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
  8. Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
  9. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
  10. Remove the tie rod heat shield.
  11. Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
  12. Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
  13. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
  14. Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.

    NOTE The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
  15. If the wheel bearing and hub need removal. Do not reuse the wheel bearing.
    http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/32050/images/32050_ptcr_g0035.gif The separation of the ball joint and the knuckle
To install:
  1. Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
  2. Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
  3. Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
  4. Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
  5. Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
  6. Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
  7. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
  8. Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
  9. Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
  10. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
  11. Lower the vehicle.
  12. Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.

Apr 17, 2009 | 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

A noise coming from front end of my saturn is it my tie rods


The noise you hear could be the tie rod ends or several other front end items. Can you jack up the front end? If so then turn the wheels from side to side with your hands griping the wheel at the 9 and 3 oclock positions. if you feel freeplay or looseness you have to reach arround and place your hand on the outter tie rod end and see if the play is there or the inner tie rod end at the rack. I worked for saturn for a few yaears and we had ALOT of front struts that made a clunking sound over bumps. Don't forget the lower ball joints could be bad also. Check these by placing your hand on the bottom of the wheel and pushing and pulling on the wheel with it off the ground while checking the tie rod ends. Good Luck, Scott

Jan 05, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

Need to replace steering arm on pass side on 1998


Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.

If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:

1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
compressed.
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.

NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.

Jan 02, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Malibu

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