Question about 1997 Plymouth Voyager
After warming up engine. driving above 55 on the street for 15 min. the oil pressure guage drops like a rock and when you rev-it in neutral it goes up and down and drops again in drive. I changed the oil pressure senser. I totally dismanteled the oil pump simple as it is in its design, cleaned it, cleaned the oil galleys of the oil pan, reassembled and started the car. A o.k. checked the p.c.v. valve and vacum lines. A o.k. I determined the only thing left is the turbo concerning the oil system. It still does it. turbo rebuild maybe. Thank you. I don't have alot of money. anything, question.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Problems with heat
Your thermostat is stuck open - if you replace that, you'll be fine (may as well have the coolant flushed as well, since you'll lose a decent amount of it when the thermostat is changed).
Posted on Nov 24, 2008
I guess the easiest thing would be replace your gas cap, or at least remove it and clean all threaded parts & seal if you haven't already. Erase codes drive it, then re-check.Next check all hoses etc., going to your vapor canister for leak, and canister for any holes.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
All I can think is that there is fault with the type of oil or the oil pump mechanism or oil pressure switch or oil pressure relief valve. When cold the oil is viscous and the pump will have little difficulty in maintaining adequate oil pressure. As the oil gets hot its viscosity is very much reduced and flows with ease and the pump has to work so much more effectively to maintain pressure. The speed of the pump is governed by engine revs so as you 'press on the gas' that pump whirls around making pressure. As soon as the engine revs drop the hot oil slips past the pump vanes and the pressure drops.
Remedy: Use a 5/40 or a 10/50 grade oil. These left number indicates viscosity when cold (5 is less viscous than 10 when cold) and the second number indicates viscosity when hot. If you live in one of the northern states and suffer very cold winters try 0/40 grade as this will cause less strain on the starter motor, battery and oil pump when starting in the cold. Try and choose a large figure (45 or 50) for the second number as this indicates a higher viscosity when hot, a good thing for older engines with greater wear and tolerances. I think it is no coincidence that the problem you have seen started immediately after you did an oil change and this should fix it.
If this results in no joy check out the pressure relief valve in the engine block: a tired or broken spring will not allow enough pressure build up.
The oil sender is probably OK but "if in doubt change it out".
All the above are relatively inexpensive but if they fail to solve the problem its time to look at the oil pump assembly. This should be accessibly once the oil sump cover on the bottom of the engine is removed. You'll need a workshop manual, some good tools and an extensive vocabulary of expletives to call on. Enjoy!
Posted on Apr 16, 2010
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