Question about 1994 Saab 900
I need to replace the governor seal and governor.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Remove Air Filter.
Loosen the bolts securing the crankshaft pulley. Remove the load from the
belt tensioner by turning the belt tensioner pulley locking bolt forward in the
car using a 15 mm wrench. Remove the belt from the coolant pump pulley and
slowly release the belt tensioner.
Remove the belt tensioner and remove the steering pump pulley
Remove the water pump pulley use the engine bracket to pry against.
Remove the timing cover and Remove the right-hand front wheel and the cover
in the wheel housing.
Remove the crankshaft pulley (undo the six bolts but do not remove the
Place the engine top dead center and Zero the engine. The markings on the
camshaft sprockets and timing cover should be in alignment as also should the
marking on the crankshaft. Use locking tools 83 95 006 and KM-800-2 for the
camshaft sprockets and locking tool KM-800-10 for the crankshaft (These tools
can be purchased from Saab (18774177222) or from Baum Tools).
Before removing the toothed belt mark its direction of rotation . To
facilitate refitting the belt can be marked at both the camshaft marking and the
STEP 10 Fit the toothed belt according to the marked direction of rotation. Use setting tool 83 95 006 to keep the belt in place and adjust the tensioning roller loosely by hand to prevent the belt from jumping off. Adjust counterclockwise. Fit a section of the toothed belt and fit tool 83 93 985 to measure the belt tension. Loosely tighten the centre bolts of the adjusting rollers. Adjust the lower adjusting roller counter clockwise to a belt tension of 275-300 Nm. Turning torque 30 lb.ft ft ******The adjustment of the belt tension is for preparation ONLY and must not be used as a check when the belt adjusted for the final time! STEP 11 Turn the engine over two revolutions until just before the zero mark and place the locking tool on the crankshaft. Carefully turn the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation until the arm rests against the coolant pump's flange and then tighten the arm. Fit setting tool 8395006 and check that the markings on the camshaft sprockets are aligned with the markings in the tool. ********Check that the A marking is approximately 2mm above B marking. If the distance is less readjustment is necessary. STEP 12 Fit the crankshaft pulley and Tighten to a torque of 15 foot lbs. STEP 13 Reinstall the inner wheel cover and front right wheel.
STEP 14 Reinstall Timing Cover.
STEP 15 Reinstall the water pump pulley use the engine bracket for leverage. STEP 16 Reinstall the power steering pulley and tighten to 6 foot lbs. STEP 17 Reinstall the belt tensioner and tighten to 30 foot lbs. STEP 18 Remove the belt tensioner load/pressure by turning the belt tensioner pulley locking bolt forwards in the car using a 15 mm wrench. Install the belt on the coolant pump pulley. Carefully release the belt tensioner. STEP 19 Reinstall the Air Cleaner and hoses that accompany Release the belt tension and remove the toothed belt.
Posted on Aug 24, 2008
You take all the center console and plastic ducts from between the seats. There are 4 10mm bolts holding the shifter mechanism to the floor. Take these off and do your best to flip the whole housing to where you can access the bottom side. The ignition switch is attached under there. As I recall there are 2 T20 screws holding it on.
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
SOURCE: replacement thermostat
Here is an illustrated tutorial for the 2.0 liter turbo. It is essentially the same for the naturally aspirated 900S: http://bellsouthpwp.net/m/a/mattiaso/WebPages/Auto/therm.htm
Posted on Nov 25, 2008
SOURCE: what type of oil on 97 saab 900
If turbo in a temperate climate, use 0W40 or 5W40 synth for year round protection. If naturally aspirated, you can use the same or 5W30. If you live a particularly hot climate, 10W40 will work just fine too, and you might even be well off to go to 10W50, at least in the hottest months. Turbos generate a lot of extra heat which contributes to quick long chain molecule shear down in multi- viscosity oils. Accordingly, a 40 wt oil will quickly thin down to something more like a 30 weight oil. Oil pressure in these cars is marginal at idle, so keeping a close eye on good viscosity is pretty important, as that helps keep pressure up.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
SOURCE: Ignition Switch Removal
you'll need to remove the console, as the key switch is between the seats. remove the shift boot cover and undo two console hold down screws (Torx 25) in front of the shift lever; there are two more in the aperture remaining when you take out the rear ashtray. Turn on the ignition key so you can put the shifter into neutral, and slide the console up and out between the seats (squeeze fit between the seat belt connectors) It's much easier if you get a sacrificial key cut, then cut the lobes off it!
with the console out, you'll need to remove the gear shift housing, for which there's a special Saab tool - they are 3 point heads. A six point socket with 3 points filed out might work. rotate the gear shift housing 90 deg to one side, to get at it's bottom, where there are two screws holding its cover in place.
With the cover off, you'll find two screws (T25) one on either side of the switch, holding the switch in place. Remove these and you have the switch. Note connections and alignments for re-assembly.
Hope this helps, if it does please give a "thumbs up"
Posted on May 31, 2009
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