Question about 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rear drive shaft seal leaking
Yes, but you will need to mark the yoke position and exact number of turns to remove the nut or you will change ring and pinion gear lash setting when re-installing it. You can use a large pipe wrench to hold the yoke still while tightening, or get a special tool made for that.
Posted on May 04, 2009
Firstly, make sure the seal you fitted is the correct one, sounds silly but I have been given the wrong seals by parts people. It pays to check. Next, if you have fitted the seal correctly, and made sure that the seal is in flush with the housing, then it may be that the shaft is worn and may have a groove in it which was caused by the old seal. Pull the shaft out again and check for this groove in the shaft. If it does have the groove, you will need to find and purchase a steel sleeve which is fitted over the worn section of the shaft and ensures a nice clean and tight surface for the new seal to run on, thus stopping the leak.. Here in australia these sleeves are called "speedy Sleeves" and are available from any bearing shop and auto parts stores. The sleeve has a removable step on it which is used to tap the sleeve onto the shaft ( with a small hammer) and is then removed by twisting it sideways with pliers or sidecutters. The sleeve has a scored edge to help with this. Once you have removed the step, carefully clean up the edge with very fine grade rubbing paper ( wet and dry or fine emery cloth) with Oil applied to it to remove any sharp edges BEFORE you refit the shaft into the gearbox. This ensures that the new sleeve does not damage the seal. Re-assemble everything and test drive. As long as the seal is correct and fitted correctly and the sleeve is fitted correctly this will stop the leak. Have fun..
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
Testimonial: "thank you very helpful"
check the U-joints by grabbing the drive shaft and try to make it move from side to side or top to bottom.It is much easier to do this if the vehicle is in the air and no weight on the axle.If it does move replace that U-joint,but if you are going to replace one then I would do both since you will have the drive shaft out any way.Also check to see if the shaft weight is still there,but I doubt it has came off its pretty rare.
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
if it is leaking from the front of the diff where the drive line goes into it you have to drop the rear of the drive shaft from the diff, if you look at the flange on the diff where the driveshaft bolted to you will see a nut, possibly about 25 to 30mm, you have to remove the nut and remove the flange off the spline of the input shaft of the diff, the nut is really tight and it is difficult to get enough pressure on the nut to "crack it" while the car is on the ground as there is not enough room to get a long bar on the socket to remove the nut. if you happen to get the nut loose and you remove the flange get a big screwdriver and pry the seal out of the diff, check the surface where the seal ran on the input shaft as it may have a groove worn into it, if it has the groove the new seal will still leak, they make a sleeve you can slide over the shaft to give the seal a good surface to run on, we call them a speedy sleeve here but not sure what they may call them there. replace everything in the reverse order that you removed it and don't forget to tension the big nut that holds the flange onto the input shaft
Posted on Jun 15, 2010
Testimonial: "many thanks, I didn't know about the flange nut and torque needed. Sleeve I understand, thanks. "
You need to replace the seal. If you are describing the driveshaft coming from the Transfer case, the part would be called a Pinion seal. You can price the repair by using this description and the Repair shop will know what you are talking about.
Sometimes people refer to the smaller shafts between the wheels and the front differential as driveshafts too. They are cv shafts or output shafts.
Posted on Sep 13, 2010
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