Hyundai Special Tools For This Job Are Over $300 And It Looks To Be Very "Touchy" As In If An Error Is Made You Can Mess Up the Bearings. Am I Imagining This To Be Worse Than It Is? Any Ideas Where To Get The Tools Cheaper??
Re: Replacing '97 Hyundai Accent Front Brake Rotors
This is not the first mis-guided post I've seen about this. A screwdriver for the set screw is fine on some models. Other models the front wheel bearings must be removed and usually replaced to get the rotors off. The bearings are fairly cheap at the local napa etc.. So just replace them. Be careful of the advise given on here. People think that one answer covers all models. This is not the case. Usually given buy a youngster who honestly beleives hes a mechanic.
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Your model is not to involved with special needs or tools...The brake pads are exposed when you remove the front caliper...this is accomplished by removing the 2 mounting bolts completely, then lift the caliper off of the rotor...be sure to hang the caliper on a strut spring or something to keep it from falling or damaging the brake line...you can pull off the rotors on this model after removing the caliper...You need to push the pistons all the way in to use the new pads...channel locks can do this. I recommend that you include replacing the rotors as this will assure the smooth new operation of pads and rotors...the rotors are inexpensive at about $20-$25...use all lubricants in re-assembling the calipers, and grease your wheel studs for weather-proofing and future service. SPECIAL NOTE: After completion pump the brakes before driving...do not be surprised that the pedal initially goes to the floor...keep pumping to restore...check fluid in master cyclinder to be sure still full...congratulations on replacing your own brake parts and saving $$$$
That sounds like the "Porportioning valve" is defective.
You may want to go to your local library and check out a Chilton's, or some other repair manual for the "how to" to fix yourself or take it to a tech you can trust.
You do not require a mechanic to do this job. lst remove any wheel front or back. You probably have front disk and drum on the back.
To remove the rotor, you will see two bolts holding brake capalier on the rotor. Remove these and pry the capalier from the rotor. Now you need to remove the pads. Simple to remove, but when replacing you need a 6 inch c clamp to force the pressure mechanism back into the rotor in order to replace the pads. Remove the rotors and have them researfaced any any machine shop. Cost around $10 per rotor. Pick you up some antisizing compound and high temp grease. Follow instructions on the label. Now remove a back wheel, if you do not see a rotor then its a drum. To remove a drum you will need a several tools to replace the drums. Purchase these at Harbor Freight or Sears. Much cheaper at Harbor freight. Now remove the other wheel and repair one wheel at a time, by checking back wsith the wheel that has not been disambled. Before replacing have the drums reserfaced. Now once the job is completed you need to tighten up the wheel by using the special tool which you purchased. Tighten a little at a time AND ONCE THE WHEEL becomes hard to turn back off a turn. Do the same thing to the other wheel. May take you all day to do the job. But it's the way I learned to do a brake job. Hope this is helpful.
It's not that hard to replace, but there are some tools that your going to have to buy. If there is a Auto Zone in you're area, you can buy the brake pads and may be a new brake rotor if they look to worn out. The rotors are not that expensive any more. They also have the right tools to buy or you can use there tool loner program to get the job done and they have the step by step instructions to replacing the break pads. If you like you can log on to AutoZone.com and look up the instructions to replacing the brake pads on your car. Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted, be glad to help.
The rotor is mounted to the hub by 4 bolts. The procedure is described in the service manual. Go to http://www.hmaservice.com/ and register. You'll have access to the information you want after you register (shop manual, wiring diagrams, service bulletins, etc.).
First make sure you have the park brake on Raise the front end make sure to support with jack stands Remove tires
this should leave the front brakes exposed
there are two slide bolts holding the caliper in place loosen both and remove
then wedge a screw driver between the inner pad and the rotor and lightly pry towards you to take some pressure off of the caliper
you should now be able to lift off the caliper it will still have the brake line attached to it so be sure to secure it to something ie a bungie strap to the suspension or something do not just let it hang by the brake line
slide out the old pads out of the caliper mounting braket
now take a caliper press and push the piston back into the brake caliper use the old inner pad do not push directly on the caliper piston (if you dont have a caliper press just substitute a c clamp it works fine)
if replacing the rotors remove the caliper bracket once again two bolts
remove the caliper bracket
Make Sure to inspect the caliper for leaks or damage
To install reverse and youll be done before you know it
Make sure to lube slide pins with a small amount of brake grease and make sure the caliper moves freely apon installation
After you have done both sides
set down car and slowly pump the brake pedal about 15 times to close the distance between caliper piston and brake pads thats all
No special tools at all. Are you familiar with doing brakes? I wouldnt recommend it for a first timer, its not worth the lives of you and others. Ive also seen people take the wrong bolt out of calipers and spend triple what a brake job cost because they werent experienced and wanted to save a buck. A 17mm and pad spreader or big channel locks is all you need. Use Toyota pads and have the rotors cut..OR... Dont complain when they make noise all the darn time!
If you have 6 bolts going around the center (manual lock in/lock out) hub, you are going to be there a while. The center hub needs to come off, and ALL of the internal wheel bearings need to come out. The whole locking hub must be removed in order get the rotor off. This is NOT an easy job, and you need a special tool to loosen/tightem the wheel bearings. Figure 2 hrs per side if you have all of the proper tools & skill level.