I have a wonderful 1988 mustang, took it to a repair shop for something simple and they reallllly messed it up including melting my fuse console and some wiring. Since then one of the problems is after driving for quite awhile my car stalls as though it's run out of gas. after it cools down it's fine again till it heats up then it stalls. short trips not a problem. The car is not overheating. Fuel pump (s), and about $1000 in parts, and its doing it again. Can someone pls help. thank you
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Re: 1988 mustang stalls
I may be able to lead you to the problem area, but it will take some work on your part. I had a 1988 Ford Thunderbird (I have a 94 now), and it sounds exactly like a problem I had. After completely researching everything, spending hundreds of dollars on parts for this and that, it turned out that it was the cars computer brain. I went to pick-your-part and bought a used computer module, and everything was fine. I paid $80.00 for it. Not only was everything fine, but my gas mileage and performance increased. This may not be your problem, but it is definitely something for you to at least investigate. I hope this helps.
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I would look at the vacuum lines and Linkages first. If they check out it is most likely a minor adjustment to he transmission. If you end up taking the vehicle to a Transmission shop make sure that you do a couple of things. 1, you want the parts they replace if any back. 2, you want to see the damage before you ok the repair. I have seen this before and the fix was a simple shift kit that took 45 minutes to install and cost $45 at Auto Zone.
another certified goof--anyway it cud be somethin easy like a dirty throttle body or idle air motor--or a corroded distributer cap or worn out plug wires-are they the originals--these are cheap things to do and a haynes book will show u--
A/C keeps blowing the fuse after I
got it recharged. Its the R-12 system and it seemed to be ok before but
now I got it recharged and replaced the blower motor in the front and
now as soon as I turn it on it blows the fuse. I replaced the 3 fuse
black and even rewired the fuses then took off the connectors tot he
rotary switch and replaced those but it still blows the fuse. Any
Could I have messed something up on installing the blower motor.
1980 911SC slantnose
1991 Honda Accord -daily driver (1991 Honda Accord #2 - just because)
2003 Acura TL Type-S (2006 Honda Odyssey w/ DVD)
Gone but missed:
1988 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II (1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade)
1984 Jeep CJ-7 (1994 Chevy Blazer)
1987 Chevy Corvette (1996 Mustang Cobra)
1993 Jeep Wrangler (1995 Mustang GT Conv.)
2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac (1987 BMW M6)
Future: Hopefully not too far off
Ferrari Testarossa (Lamboghini Diablo or Countach) please comment on these solution
sounds like a problem. cant really think of what could have caused this. you didnt let the 2 battery cabels touch together or touch any kind of metal? if so that could have been the cause. it could have grouned out and messed with something. take the car to a shop and have a technician hook it up to a obd. thats what i would do, well i can myself bc i have a obd scan tool. anyways, have a technician hook it to the obd scan tool and get the code. they could fix it!
Did they ever try to read any dtc's (diagnostic Trouble Codes)? It sounds like they are not sure what they are doing. Throwing parts at a problem can eventually correct the problem but it may cost you more than the value of the vehicle. When you first took it in to get the ac repaired, was the vehicle stalling at that time or was that after the first time they worked on it? If the check engine light is coming on then there is a code that will point to the problem area, not much guess work needed here. 02 sensors will not stall the engine while driving exept perhaps at a stop light where the engine needs to idle. The 02 sensor simply provides an input to the PCM (primary control module) so that the PCM can make fine fuel trim adjustments, not enough of an adjustment to kill an engine while driving. You may want to find another shop with knowlegable techs to simply read the codes and repair the true problem.
I can't find a "common thread" that connects the two failures...I can't help wondering why it was stalling, or if the shop messed with the alternator at all, in a way that would cause it to fail. If the car overheated and somehow coolant got blown into the alternator, that may have caused it to fail, or if it was shorted to ground during repair, that would not be helpful either. In any case I'd try not to use that shop again, and find a more reliable place to get repair work done. Not being there, I really can't say with certainty that one problem, or the repair caused your problem but when in doubt, Use someone that gives you more confidence and less worry.
something like that messes with the entire engine control system and overpressurizes the inside of the engine. Do a compression test to verify...I'm not there, but it sure sounds like that's what it is!