Question about 1986 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer

1 Answer

Sputters at full throttle and wont idle

Extremely hard to start, have replaces air filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, idle control sensor, coil, new gas, Throttle positioning sensor, Carburetor gets fuel, Catalytic Converter not plugged.. What could be the next step?

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  • Contributor
  • 36 Answers

Run pressure test on your fuel injectors. Fuel pump might not be suppling enough fuel line pressure.

Posted on Apr 13, 2014

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 10917 Answers

SOURCE: Shakes while idling and sometimes stalls.

check for minor vacuum leak and map sensor,pcv,egr valve

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

roniecon
  • 6826 Answers

SOURCE: Somedays will idle, run and

Replace the pick up coil in the distributor,this is the problem.

Posted on Apr 23, 2010

emissionwiz
  • 74914 Answers

SOURCE: pops back through the intake when it is cold runs

This problem can be caused by defective spark plug wires that are cross firing due to voltage leaking to a nearby plug wire as well as a flat camshaft lobe.

Posted on Jan 16, 2011

  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: when i give it full

When you state you have a "Cap & Rotor", indicating an engine, which may possibly be OLDER than the 1994 S-10 it is in. A Crank positioning sensor, on a full throttle body, (or do you mean carburetor/combo/injector system) Not the true name, but, in appearance, looks like a carb. It has a "pulsating" injector within the opening of the butterfly/mouth of the throttling body. When you have an ECM, or Computer Command timing, with a crank sensor, you will have 2 coil packs for 4 cylinder, a 3 coil pack for a V-6. They will be just under the electric cooling fan for the radiator. If you are driving a "bought used" vehicle, and the Cap, Rotor, & wires are only accessed thru the RH wheel well, it is a "Distributor System" & an OLDER engine. The Back fire is being caused by a "jumped" timing belt, or HOPEFULLY, a crossed spark plug wire.

Posted on Aug 31, 2011

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2001 chevy malibu idles anywhere from 1500-2500 rpm then sputters and dies while driving.


I'LL TRY, GOOD TO SEE SOMEONE TRY AT LEAST ! IDLE SEEMS HIGH, BACK TO BASICS !!!!!! THE AIR & FUEL FILTERS NEED REPLACED, SPARK PLUG WIRES, YOU FORGOT THEM !!! DISTRIBUTOR CAP & ROTOR, YOU FORGOT THEM !!! THESE ARE AS IMPORTANT AS THE AIR WE BREATHE !!!!! VACUUM LEAKS, CHECK ALL VACUMM LINES, THOROUGHLY ! THIS LINE COMING OUT OF THE TRANSAXLE PORTION OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD ?????????????????/ YOUR NEED TO REPLACE WHATEVER IT IS, WHAT KIND OF LINE ? METAL, RUBBER , WIRE ??? MOVING ON, GOOD YOU REPLACED THE OXYGEN SENSOR, & IDLE AIR VALVE, & TPS, RECHECK TPS, IS IT LOOSE, ALSO TIGHTEN THROTTLEBODY BOLTS, THE ONES THAT HOLD IT DOWN. SO, CHANGE YOUR FILTERS,WIRES, ETC., MENTIONED ABOVE, CAP & ROTOR, ETC.,ETC.,.........GO FROM THERE, SEE HOW THAT WORKS

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Hello,
your problem appears to be the idle control motor located on the air intake manifold it is a small motor that goes bad quite often. Other items that can cause this is a bad /clogged air filter or a tune up (spark plugs and wires), or clogged fuel injectors. to clean the injectors you can buy a container of fuel system cleaner and pour it into the gas tank and as you drive it cleans the system.

Once the fuel system is cleaned via a tankful of cleaner & gas then the idle controller motor would be next on the list to be replaced.

Good Luck !
Rich Lilja

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