Question about 1994 Geo Tracker

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Clutch cable lever

Can one be gotten aftermarket

Posted by Anonymous on

2 Answers

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  • Geo Master
  • 20,706 Answers

No only suzuki makes that part
both lever above pedal and at bell.
see drawing A here
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html

ID #11

Posted on Dec 31, 2014

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  • Geo Master
  • 42,042 Answers

Possible but if there is none available try the wreckers for your car

Posted on Dec 28, 2014

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6ya6ya
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1 Answer

Gear lever is not activating but the clutch is fine


problem with linkage cables. get under vehicle and select a gear
manually with engine off, then climb inside, start up with clutch
pedal depressed, release clutch, if nothing happens, problem in gearbox, if it takes off, problem with linkage cables.

Apr 03, 2014 | Toyota Quantum Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I was releasing my clutch and heard and FELT a "snap." It's a 1993 Geo Metro with a 3 cylinder engine and manual transmission. After the snap it felt like it wasn't quite "grabbing" when I released the...


Try a new cable, and make sure the funky suzuki weak pedal
is not cracked or the spline at top end is not stripped.
there are 2 parts here. not counting the shift lever that can fail.
1: the pedal actuator and cable.
2: the clutch actual.

if the clutch lever moves (at bell) 1 inch the (no play) then the clutch is bad.
see that simple test? the 1 inch?
you step on the pedal and the lever on the throw out moves 1inch.
that is all the curator does.


the cables is only good for like 100kmiles, (more if lubed)
and like to break in the center where you cant see, they fry there
and prevents you from setting up free play right.
see the problem here? if the cable is bad , you had tension on the
bell lever and the clutch slipped and burned up.
the cable is the cheapest part and the lowest labor.
why folks replace it last , is a wonder. but see that all the time.

do you understand the free play rules here. on all clutches.
(cable or lever type)
it must have free play, 1/2 inch at the pedal or 1/8" at bell lever.
if not the throwout burns up.
if not, (worse) the clutch slips.
if not the PP fingers overheat and the spring fails, (anneals)
free play.
and changes to tighter as you drive and clutch wears.
if you cant get the free play right ,its a big issue.
the #1 reason is bad CABLE. $25 and its out.

Oct 25, 2013 | 1993 Geo Metro

2 Answers

How to adjust clutch cable 90 geo storm gsi


set it for 1/8 inch free play at the clutch lever, at the BELL.

Sep 15, 2013 | Geo Storm Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

72 superbug/ vw clutch cable lever spring installation?


u need a repair manual or go to library sec629 for rebuild books

Nov 22, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Clutch pedal goes to floor and stays there.it's cable operated.cable works it does move the clutch lever when stepped on. there was no indication of problem (no noise no chatter etc.)i disconnected the...


If adjusting it tighter doesn't help then you will have to remove the transmission. The fingers on the pressure plate are bad or something broke on the clutch fork shaft.

Mar 27, 2010 | 1998 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Clutch pedal goes to floor and stays there .cable and all linkages seem to be working


well if it doesnt return then i'm assuming that the clutch isnt actually working on your car right? like you cant disengage the clutch correct? the only thing i've seen on these is that the cable can become disconnected right at the lever which applies the clutch. the clutch lever is right on the front side of the transmission and is easily seen with just the hood open. have somebody push the clutch down and see if the lever is moving. i can't imagine that it would be moving. if the lever does move and the clutch does not disengage then first i would attempt to adjust the clutch cable.

did this probelm just occur out of nowhere?

really the only explanation for this if the clutch lever is moving is that you have a very serious problem with the pressure plate. but i've never even heard of any probelm like this resulting from a bad pressure plate.

i would say that there about a 99% chance it's the a linkage probelm and 1% it's the pressure plate.

but yea if you answer those above questions i'd be able to give a better solution.

Mar 27, 2010 | 1998 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

How do you remove or drop down the tilt steering column on a 1989 F250 4x4 7.3 diesel? I'm trying to replace the clutch and brake peddle support pivot bracket that is broken. I've gotten the bracket...


this is for 1996, don't have 89.
these may be steps you need



  1. Remove pinch bolt from steering shaft flex coupling.
  1. Disconnect shift cable from selector lever pivot.
  1. Remove shift cable from steering column lower mounting bracket by pushing tab on cable in and sliding cable off bracket.
  1. Disconnect ignition switch (11572) by loosening bolt and removing connector. The bolt is part of connector and can not be removed.
  1. While supporting steering column, remove four retaining nuts.
  1. Disconnect collapsible intermediate shaft from U-joint at lower end of steering column.
  1. Remove steering column from vehicle.
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Oct 29, 2009 | 1989 Ford F 250

1 Answer

Info on do it tyour self clutch removal on 2001 mustang 3.8


REMOVAL:
  1. Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
  2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
  3. Raise and support vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
  5. Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
  6. Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
  7. Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
  8. Remove transmission.
  9. Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
  10. Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
  11. Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
  12. Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
  13. Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
INSTALLATION:
  1. Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
    1. Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
    2. Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
    3. tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
    4. Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
    5. Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
    6. To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.

  2. Install transmission to flywheel housing.
  3. Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
  4. Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
  5. Install starter motor.
  6. Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
    1. Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
    2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.

  7. Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable

Aug 08, 2009 | 2001 Ford Mustang

2 Answers

New clutch cable made gear change much worse.


Hi,

Had a recent similar problem. Fortunately, my replacement cable is adjustable. As the new cable stretched, I had to take a crowbar to the the throwout lever next to the battery and lever it back while pulling off the cable (towards the battery). I then lifted the fuse box (look out for the 10mm plastic nut that holds it in on the side by the driver's side fender) on the drivers side right in front of the windshield to reach down and pull the cable up enough to reach the adjustor. When it is high enough, release the locknut and turn the adjusting nut upwards about 4 turns (both nuts on my cable were 17mm and a "stubby" is handy but not necessary. Grab the end by the battery and, making sure it is seated on the groove on the transmission, pry the lever again with the crowbar and reseat tg
he cable end in the lever. I have had to readjust the cable twice more before it settled in a comfortableplace, but once you get the hang of it, it only takes about 10 minutes.

Hope this is helpful.

May 20, 2009 | 1997 Saab 900

2 Answers

The bite point of my clutch is very low and it is very difficult to change gear. Please help me Thanks. I need to know if I should drive the car (only 60 miles) before I have the clutch replaced as I...


You will not gain anything from "double clutching", The thrust bearing is not fully seated. Normal wear would indicate a high catch point on your pedal. Check the fluid level for the clutch cylinder, check the reservoir cap, look for any moisture under the cap. If it has gotten below the add mark, you may have air, any moisture, flush, refill and bleed. Any of these would create a low pedal...Lube your clutch linkage.
Tip: you can purchase and install aftermarket lubrication kits for
the thrust bearing that will help clutch operations and extend life...
MG's ...keep um on the road!
Good Luck....i hope this helps

May 14, 2009 | 1997 Acura CL

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