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problem with linkage cables. get under vehicle and select a gear
manually with engine off, then climb inside, start up with clutch
pedal depressed, release clutch, if nothing happens, problem in gearbox, if it takes off, problem with linkage cables.
Try a new cable, and make sure the funky suzuki weak pedal is not cracked or the spline at top end is not stripped. there are 2 parts here. not counting the shift lever that can fail. 1: the pedal actuator and cable. 2: the clutch actual.
if the clutch lever moves (at bell) 1 inch the (no play) then the clutch is bad. see that simple test? the 1 inch? you step on the pedal and the lever on the throw out moves 1inch. that is all the curator does.
the cables is only good for like 100kmiles, (more if lubed) and like to break in the center where you cant see, they fry there and prevents you from setting up free play right. see the problem here? if the cable is bad , you had tension on the bell lever and the clutch slipped and burned up. the cable is the cheapest part and the lowest labor. why folks replace it last , is a wonder. but see that all the time.
do you understand the free play rules here. on all clutches. (cable or lever type) it must have free play, 1/2 inch at the pedal or 1/8" at bell lever. if not the throwout burns up. if not, (worse) the clutch slips. if not the PP fingers overheat and the spring fails, (anneals) free play. and changes to tighter as you drive and clutch wears. if you cant get the free play right ,its a big issue. the #1 reason is bad CABLE. $25 and its out.
well if it doesnt return then i'm assuming that the clutch isnt actually working on your car right? like you cant disengage the clutch correct? the only thing i've seen on these is that the cable can become disconnected right at the lever which applies the clutch. the clutch lever is right on the front side of the transmission and is easily seen with just the hood open. have somebody push the clutch down and see if the lever is moving. i can't imagine that it would be moving. if the lever does move and the clutch does not disengage then first i would attempt to adjust the clutch cable.
did this probelm just occur out of nowhere?
really the only explanation for this if the clutch lever is moving is that you have a very serious problem with the pressure plate. but i've never even heard of any probelm like this resulting from a bad pressure plate.
i would say that there about a 99% chance it's the a linkage probelm and 1% it's the pressure plate.
but yea if you answer those above questions i'd be able to give a better solution.
Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.
Install transmission to flywheel housing.
Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
Install starter motor.
Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable
Had a recent similar problem. Fortunately, my replacement cable is adjustable. As the new cable stretched, I had to take a crowbar to the the throwout lever next to the battery and lever it back while pulling off the cable (towards the battery). I then lifted the fuse box (look out for the 10mm plastic nut that holds it in on the side by the driver's side fender) on the drivers side right in front of the windshield to reach down and pull the cable up enough to reach the adjustor. When it is high enough, release the locknut and turn the adjusting nut upwards about 4 turns (both nuts on my cable were 17mm and a "stubby" is handy but not necessary. Grab the end by the battery and, making sure it is seated on the groove on the transmission, pry the lever again with the crowbar and reseat tg
he cable end in the lever. I have had to readjust the cable twice more before it settled in a comfortableplace, but once you get the hang of it, it only takes about 10 minutes.
You will not gain anything from "double clutching", The thrust bearing is not fully seated. Normal wear would indicate a high catch point on your pedal. Check the fluid level for the clutch cylinder, check the reservoir cap, look for any moisture under the cap. If it has gotten below the add mark, you may have air, any moisture, flush, refill and bleed. Any of these would create a low pedal...Lube your clutch linkage. Tip: you can purchase and install aftermarket lubrication kits for the thrust bearing that will help clutch operations and extend life... MG's ...keep um on the road! Good Luck....i hope this helps