Question about 1997 Subaru Legacy

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Brake squishy pedal goes to floor

Car won't stop quickly. Brake pedal is stiff when ignition switch off. Turn car on engine running, brake pedal goes to floor and won"t stop correctly.

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  • sundevil2001 Apr 13, 2014

    I did the master cylinder and the power booster and same thing still occurs

  • sundevil2001 Apr 13, 2014

    changed master cyliner and power boosgt still same issue

  • sundevil2001 Apr 13, 2014

    Having changed power boost and bleeding manifold. Car has pedal when key off, start engine pedal goes gto floor. Pull the vacume hose off the power boost and pedal is firm,

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You may have air in the line or a bad brake cylinder.try bleeding the lines and inspect the cylinders. good luck !!

Posted on Apr 13, 2014

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  • 29 Answers

Might be a frozen caliper piston or a lot of air in lines

Posted on Apr 13, 2014

  • sundevil2001 Apr 13, 2014

    whats the best way to bleed brakes for a subaru

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: Brakes were changed sucessfully, brakes

sounds like master cylinder or booster is done i have a 99 legacey and this was a recalled item

Posted on Jul 19, 2008

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1 Answer

Brake pedal is stiff when off and goes tt floor when running is it booster or master cylinder


Well stiff or a hard pedal when the engine is off is normal.
Pedal going to floor is a faulty master cylinder or low on fluid, or air in the lines.

May 26, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why do I have good brake pressure when turned off but no pressure with car started?


With the engine running there is piece of assistive technology called a 'brake servo'. This amplifies what you do to the brake pedal and amplifies it to the four brake calipers and the hydraulic pistons inside them. When the engine is off, you are operating the brakes manually which is why you feel all that pressure.

You brake lines have either got air in them and need bleeding, or your brake servo is faulty.

This is a bit of an infomercial but explains.
http://youtu.be/L0oUejw5Edc

This is the traditional two-person way
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a1495/how-to-bleed-brakes/


How Power Brakes Work HowStuffWorks

Sep 21, 2015 | 2001 Chevrolet Impala

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Soft brake pedal on 94 gmc sierra


in late model GM and Ford cars with quick take-up master cylinders, the quick take-up valve takes about 15 seconds to reseat after the brake pedal has been depressed, so you should wait at least 20 seconds before you press the pedal while bleeding. If the pedal is pumped too quickly while manually bleeding the system, you may never get the pedal to firm up. On a side note, did you check the level in the master cylinder after every 2 or 3 bleedin procedures? you could have been pumping air right back in the lines if the reservoir runs dry during the bleeding process.

Dec 16, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

No brake pedal. pads good, fluid up in master. pedal won,t come up when bled?


fluid is by passing rubbers in master cylinder . replace unit. noise if you are running engine could be air leaking from faulty booster unit

Feb 01, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brake pedal stuck, car would not start. any ideas


As I understood,you had stiff brake pedal and the car on your attempt to start was not firing? and after 30 seconds it did? How the engine ran after the start? If I am correct stiffness on brake pedal,fault is either the check valve which is fitted inside the hose goes from the inlet manifold to the servo unit,stuck open and cause the engine have a vacuum leak . Or the servo unit itself stuck according to diaphragm move ability after the vacuum.If the brakes now are working as before and the engine as well,I suggest to remove the hose with the check valve inside test it and actually I recommend to renew it. It is for safety purpose,because this will happen even when you are in motion and God knows if you are in a speed and need sharp braking. Confirm first that it is the check valve or the Servo unit. Ask from an expert help.

Jan 02, 2013 | 2005 Honda Accord

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Astrostart won't start the car


You may need to reset the system.

SEQUENCE ACTIVATED BY THE PARKING BRAKE .
1. While engine is running (key in ignition switch), apply the brakes and hold the pedal down.
2. Move gearshift lever to neutral.
3. Apply the parking brake Once Twice
Note: The system can be set - at time of installation - to require that the parking brake be applied once or twice.
If set for two actuations, pause one second between the two.
4. Remove key from ignition (the system keeps the engine running).
5. Exit the vehicle.
6. Within 60 seconds, close all doors.
7. The system will stop the engine and blink the parking brakes once to confirm the sequence is valid (vehicle is
ready for a remote start command).
SEQUENCE ACTIVATED BY THE REMOTE CONTROL
1. While engine is running (key in ignition switch), apply the brakes and hold the pedal down.
2. Move gearshift lever to neutral.
3. Apply parking brake.
4. Send the start command (Model 801 & 2101 - Model 903 ).
5. Remove key from ignition (the system keeps the engine running).
6. Exit the vehicle.
7. Using the remote, send the STOP command. The system will stop the engine and parking lights will blink once
to confirm that the sequence is valid (vehicle is ready for a remote start command).
http://www.astrostart.com/Support/Guides.aspx

Nov 27, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When bleeding brakes have good pedal with engine off. with engine running pedal goes almost to the floor what is wrong


can you here a hissing sound when you push the brake while its running? if so then you have a bad brake booster, need to replace it, the hissing is actually the vacuum that builds within the booster escaping thru the seal in the booster

Sep 09, 2012 | Oldsmobile Intrigue Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Got a 94' chevy 1500 having brake problems, and replaced the master cylinder and bled the lines. but the pedal is still not working right, the pedal when pushed with the truck running will just go to the...


With he engine running your pedal action is assisted greatly by the brake servo. The servo is a large diaphragm that is acted on by the suction delivered by a vacuum line from the the intake manifold. The fact that the pedal goes to the floor when the engine is running just shows how much assistance the engine suction provides to your foot pressure. It is obvious that you still have air in your system. I would suggest that you top up the master reservoir, start your engine and pump the brakes quickly until you feel some hard back pressure. This will ensure that the brake pistons have been fully extended. Starting with the most remote caliper (right rear) bleed off about half a pint of fluid. Ensure that no air is allowed to **** back in via the bleed nipple at any time. Refill the master reservoir. Next the left rear caliper, bleed off about a quarter of a pint. Refill reservoir. Bleed off a about quarter of pint from both front brakes. This should sort it out.

May 13, 2010 | 1994 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

Squishy brake feel with long pedal travel but brakes stop the car


You have to remove the air trapped in the hydraulic system. Look at change of brakefluid in a repair handbook and perform it as described.

Useful to change the brakefluid at least once every five years anyway.

Sep 28, 2009 | 2000 Volvo S80

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