Question about 2003 Mazda Protege

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I HAVE A 2003 MAZDA PROREGE ...I PURCHASED IN NEW...I,VE TAKEN GOOD CARE OF IT THRU THE YEARS...IT,S STARTING TO SMOKE WHEN I START IT UP IN THE MORNINGS FOR ABOUT A MINUTE THEN THE SMOKING STOPS...DOES'NT SMOKE WHEN I'M DRIVING....NOW WITHIN THE LAST MONTH , IT FEELS LIKE IT'S LOOSING POWER HAD TO KEEP THE RPM'M UP JUST TO GET IT HOME IT'S BEEN PARKED EVER SINCE....THE MAZDA DEARLERSHIP SUGEST BUYING A NEW MOTOR....SAID IT WOULD BE CHEAPER THAN THEM REBUILDING THE OLD ONE...ANY SUGESTIONSON A FIX AND CAN YOU SUGEST ANY REASONABLE REPAIR SHOPS.....THE ENGINE HAS ABOUT 120000 MILES ON IT.

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  • Mazda Master
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There is always a better alternative than the dealership as far as costs. They want to put a new motor in a 2003 model? That is ridiculous to me- cost-prohibitive. Find a reputable independent shop. Look for references and customer satisfaction. A used, low mileage replacement engine is a better alternative, probably less than half the cost of a new engine.
There may be an even better alternative, where you refurbish the top end of the engine-the cylinder head and valve train. This is dependent on that a wet-dry compression test supports rebuilding the top end. What I mean by this is a compression test of the cylinders reveals low compression in one or more cylinders, okay. Next, they would squirt some oil (about a tablespoon) in the low cylinders and check compression again. If compression doesn't change, it points to the valves and valve train (the valve guides which wear and could let oil into the cylinder). But if compression is higher in the wet test, then the piston rings are worn and losing compression, and oil gets past them-this would indicate the engine needs a complete rebuild or a replacement is called for. The reason for the wet test is that the oil will temporarily seal around the piston rings and improve compression if the rings are the problem.
If the test shows the valves are the problem (and it is very possible on an engine with only 120K-your bottom end could be fine), then a top end rebuild of the engine is a much cheaper route than any other choices. You may not know this, but often a little oil burning in the cylinders at start-up is nothing more than the valve stem rubber seals are deteriorated-a real cheap fix. The dealership probably won't tell you this. However, with the loss of power, well, that points to something more severe than valve stem seals. So I would recommend the wet compression test, just to check if it is the top end or the bottom end. If it's the top end, you could have the cylinder head reconditioned and motor along for a few more years, trouble free.
Similar to a compression test, a "leak down" test of the cylinders is actually a more accurate method of finding where compression is lost, and it's only a one step test. They hold compressed air in the cylinder and analyze where it escapes to pinpoint compression loss. Loss of compression translates into loss of power. Have either test done before you decide. Find a good mechanic and trust his advice. (Stay far away from dealers. Greed is their motivating factor.)

Posted on Apr 12, 2014

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SOURCE: Loss of power and acceleration on Mazda 6 Turbo diesel 2003

I'm assuming that that smoke was more previlant while going uphill because that's when the turbo would be really spolling up to max psi. I would guess that if you really got on the gas hard and got the turbo going even on a flat surface, that you would notice the smoke too. The loss of power and the white/grey smoke are tell tale signs that your turbo is bad or starting to fail. Good luck!

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

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SOURCE: 1994 mazda protege 1.8 l auto trans won't start

It could be a faulty Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. It sounds like when it is cold, your computer is interpreting your signal from the ECT (or lack therof) as being at a certain temperature and not providing the right amount of fuel in order to start the engine when it is cold. Does the check engine light blink or flash at all?

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 87 RX7 - smoking exhast for several miles then stops

well,when you turn off the rotary it leaves oil and gas.so when you start it up, it burns off the oil you left causeing blueish smoke. same problem with flooding,when you drive short distance , warmup incorrectly or if use synthetic oil.to fix the cause of flooding(i have the same vehicle and problems)let it warm up for at least 15 min.there is also a fuel pump wire next to the fuse box located above the brake pedal.then you tap a switch from the fuel pump to your interior.the reoson being is so whenever you come to a stop to park flip the swith.that allows the rotar to burn the fuel left in the pump witch will make your rx7 to stutter out and die.when you start it back up ,flip the swicth back on and it will take an extra second for it to crank over.1 more thing,check your oil every 2-3 fills on gas and change oil every 2000 miles.also redline it at least one a week. i hope i just solved your problem because i love my 87 non turbo and know how you feel.if you want to look at cheap aftermarket parts for rx7 then go to srmotorsports.com/rx7guru.com is a guy that test parts to tell people wats good and cheap for rx7s.i would recomend roll cage and 5 point harness-seats.good luck with your rx7 bro

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

  • 98 Answers

SOURCE: My Mazda MPV TDI looses oil frequently

its almost normal.i would switch to a high milage oil at the next oil change.u also might want to change the pcv valve.

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

jlelandthoma
  • 53 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1988 Mazda B2200 with 152,000 miles on it. it runs good but smokes when I first start it. After it warms up it doesn't smoke any any more, it also uses any 1/2 court or oil per week. wher

Probably the valve guides or seals this happen's early in engine's that idle excessiveJohnny

Posted on Mar 16, 2012

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