Question about 1999 GMC Yukon Denali
Neutral safety swith is less then 6 months old, swapped starter relays and the last time this happened resetting the ecm fixed the issue. now back to no crank but it has power,dash lights etc
Sometimes the problem has been the ignition switch power to starter. If you have checked that, then:
This procedure usually works:
·Check the battery cable connections:
Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine. Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter.
·Check the battery the simple way, like this:
Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok.
·Check the starter and solenoid:
If the wiring looks ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection, and proper voltage at the starter(10 volts minimum while cranking).
If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's pinion gear is stuck.
Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck pinion gear.
·Make a simple test of the alternator:
If you can, somehow get the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be at least 13.6 volts to properly charge the battery.
Posted on Apr 30, 2015
Check battery for enough cranking power, if battery is below 8 volts, your dash lights will work, but you wont have enough power to start the engine
Posted on Apr 13, 2014
Testimonial: "actually the neutral safety switch was out of alignment and the computer thought the vehicle was not in park. hence the reason why it had only lights and no crank. not even a click. thanks"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Did u put in fuel shortly before the light came on? I own 2 service centers & the most common situation with "Check Engine" lights are because the fuel cap wasn't re-installed or not tightened. When you refuel make sure it "clicks" when putting back on. We don't charge for a "Code Reading" but a dealer will, don't go there. Go, like the others suggested. If it is the fuel cap & you re-install it correctly, the light will go off after a short drive. Good Luck. PS-Don't panic when the "Check Engine" light comes on unless it blinks, if that happens don't drive. PSS-RE: Murray's, Auto-Zone.......If it's a "Code" (the reader will give a #) the code book will tell you the problem. PSSS-Some1 please have Troy W's Mommy & Daddy take away his keyboard. Just because you can put together a "Lego" car doesn't make you a master mechanic. You only repeated what we said except you have a "Napoleon" complex against any1 plugging something in to a vehicle. It's the same as plugging in a light @ home. In conjunction with "kinder" nine out of ten time in my experience it usually is the oxygen sensor(s) which would be about right with the year model
Posted on May 18, 2008
SOURCE: 1996 GMC Yukon,5.7l wont start
on a gm car or truck i have found that the battery side post ends get corrosion in between the rubber and the round metal plate.
take bolt and metal plate out, clean and reinstall btoh positive and negative ends. it will almost for certain fix your issue.let me know how it goes.
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
There is no p01001, it's either p0100, or p0101.
Anyway, it's the mass air flow sensor that's bad. The p0171 and p0174 is a lean condition on bank 1 and bank 2, which are the oxygen sensors. Change the mass air flow sensor and that should take care of the p0171 and 74 codes.
The mass air flow sensor can cause the 02 sensors to read lean.
The u1301, is a class 2 circuit short to battery. That, you have to test wires to find with a voltmeter/continuity tester.
I would try and find that short before changing the flow sensor, you don't need the new one shorting out, they are not that cheap.
Posted on Nov 17, 2009
I recently had a low engine power on my 2003 Denali. The check engine light came on and I couldn't go above 40 mph. I took it in the next morning but by this time the check engine light had gone off. The mechanic had just recently seen the same problem in another Denali in which they changed the battery and had no problems since. I also decided to have them change out my battery and I have not had the problem since either. I would stay away from the dealership if I were you, and always get a second opinion. Most smaller shops wont charge for a diagnostic where the dealership will charge at least 80 just to tell you what might be wrong and that will only work if you have a warning light on at the time.
Posted on Feb 23, 2010
The security system (Passlock) is having problems, it's typical on those trucks. You can find a great write-up here: http://newrockies.ca , it was the only thing that saved my Park Avenue.
Posted on Jul 16, 2010
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